Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I bought a 1998 GMC Sierra 2500, and the ignition key doesn't work for the door locks...i called the dealership, and asked if they could cut me door keys but the guy insisted it should be the same as the ignition and said to call a locksmith...any alternatives?

Posted
23 minutes ago, Dragoness88888 said:

I bought a 1998 GMC Sierra 2500, and the ignition key doesn't work for the door locks...i called the dealership, and asked if they could cut me door keys but the guy insisted it should be the same as the ignition and said to call a locksmith...any alternatives?

Probably had the lock cylinder changed out for the ignition at some point.  Better option would be to call a locksmith, not the dealership.  A locksmith might be able to get you a couple of matching lock cylinders for your doors with your current.  Or you will have to have both doors and the ignition changed out to get them to match if he can't.

Posted
12 hours ago, Dragoness88888 said:

I bought a 1998 GMC Sierra 2500, and the ignition key doesn't work for the door locks...i called the dealership, and asked if they could cut me door keys but the guy insisted it should be the same as the ignition and said to call a locksmith...any alternatives?

Buy new ignition cylinder and assemble it to match the current door key.  Im pretty sure when you buy an ignition cylinder they send you all the pins and you have to assemble the lock to match your existing key.

Posted

May be it IS different key? My 94' Chevy Suburban K2500, 96' Ford F250xl, and my company's 98' GMC Savana 2500, they all have 2 different keys for ignition and door locks.

 

I think 2 keys is not bad. I store the ignition key in the cab, attach the door key on my key ring. Every time I drive my Suburban or F250, just put the door key with key ring in my pocket after open the door, then grab the ignition key to start driving. I never worry about lock my key in my vehicle.

 

A mechanic told me the key with heavy key ring swing around can cause ignition lock cylinder abrasion.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...