Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The camera I'm talking about is the one that comes on when you have a trailer connected and a turn signal is on. I recently installed a camper top so I thought this camera view might be handy since I don't have a good rear view mirror picture. I took a test plug for the 7 wire trailer connector and hooked it up and now the truck thinks a trailer is hooked up so the camera comes on when a turn signal is activated. I think this will come in handy when changing lanes on the highway. Not breaking news but thought I'd let everyone know

  • Like 1
Posted

Doesn’t that also disable rear park assist, cross traffic alert and lane change alert though? Every time I plug a trailer into my 19, that stuff is automatically turned off.

Posted

Following this thread as well.  I tried a digital trailer plug tester and it did not trigger my cameras to come on with the turn signal.  A great feature but not at the expense of turning off other features.  I'm interested in what others find here.  

Posted (edited)

I'm very interested in this....

I don't have the safety package so not concerned about that.......does this work on every Silverado with the 7-pin trailer connector?

Anything else it might affect?

 

Cool....?

Edited by BigMick2020
Posted

I am sure this does disable bunch of features too, but I am wondering if there is a better way than leaving something plugged in. Maybe wire of the ground to something will make it think something is connected.

Posted

I did not have a front camera so I did a similar thing using the interior trailer input for the front camera.  Since the camera will not work without a trailer hooked up, I have a toggle switch under the dash connecting a light to the trailer harness that turns the camera on and off.  The only time I use the front camera is off road to see what is right in front of the bumper.  Leaving the switch off keeps the rear park alert system working and you can turn the camera on and off at anytime.  Only bad thing is the interior trailer camera input is inverted like the rear trailer camera. Don't have a fix for that.

Posted
9 hours ago, 2020 SLT owner said:

I did not have a front camera so I did a similar thing using the interior trailer input for the front camera.  Since the camera will not work without a trailer hooked up, I have a toggle switch under the dash connecting a light to the trailer harness that turns the camera on and off.  The only time I use the front camera is off road to see what is right in front of the bumper.  Leaving the switch off keeps the rear park alert system working and you can turn the camera on and off at anytime.  Only bad thing is the interior trailer camera input is inverted like the rear trailer camera. Don't have a fix for that.

Would you mind identifying which pins triggers the vehicle for trailer hookup? 

Posted

#1 white is ground.  #3 brown tail light.  #5 Left turn.  #6 green Right turn.  Any one of the lights to ground using a non LED or an LED with enough load will trigger the trailer cameras.  I used a 3 pole switch and switched all 3 lights.  I found you get a couple more light error messages.  the messages do not affect anything.  Just ignore or dismiss.  When you turn the switch off, the trailer disconnected message appears.

I used a Curt connector that gives you the jack in the bed of the truck for 5th wheel hook up.  I spliced into those wires so there is no disturbing factory wiring.  The four conductor shielded wire ran with the wiring along the passenger side and came up thru the passenger side panel and over to the drivers side under the dash.  I made an angle iron bracket that I drilled to match a plastic bracket that is there and has a 3/8 hole.

 

I wish I would have located the 5th wheel trailer jack on the same side as the 110 volt outlet.  I positioned the jack so the swing up handle would miss it, but if a plug is in there the handle cannot be swung up without removing it.  I don't have a 5th wheel but a 7 pin to 12 volt adapter gives me a source for my electric refer or coffee pot since the 110 volt 400 watt inverter outlet is too wimpy to do much.

 

I have a 2020 1500 SLT without the Tech package.  I do have the bed view camera with the two trailer camera inputs.  Reading all the post, it seems the cameras work different for different trims.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 6/3/2020 at 6:03 PM, 2020 SLT owner said:

#1 white is ground.  #3 brown tail light.  #5 Left turn.  #6 green Right turn.  Any one of the lights to ground using a non LED or an LED with enough load will trigger the trailer cameras.  I used a 3 pole switch and switched all 3 lights.  I found you get a couple more light error messages.  the messages do not affect anything.  Just ignore or dismiss.  When you turn the switch off, the trailer disconnected message appears.

I used a Curt connector that gives you the jack in the bed of the truck for 5th wheel hook up.  I spliced into those wires so there is no disturbing factory wiring.  The four conductor shielded wire ran with the wiring along the passenger side and came up thru the passenger side panel and over to the drivers side under the dash.  I made an angle iron bracket that I drilled to match a plastic bracket that is there and has a 3/8 hole.

 

I wish I would have located the 5th wheel trailer jack on the same side as the 110 volt outlet.  I positioned the jack so the swing up handle would miss it, but if a plug is in there the handle cannot be swung up without removing it.  I don't have a 5th wheel but a 7 pin to 12 volt adapter gives me a source for my electric refer or coffee pot since the 110 volt 400 watt inverter outlet is too wimpy to do much.

 

I have a 2020 1500 SLT without the Tech package.  I do have the bed view camera with the two trailer camera inputs.  Reading all the post, it seems the cameras work different for different trims.

 

I have purchased Tow Ready 20142 7-Way as you have suggested from another post, this works flawless! Do you have a picture, part number or a link to purchase the curt connector you are referring to? I also want to do a switch, but maybe using the signal switch with relay, so they work without needing to flip a switch

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I have been trying several things and I finally was able to make it work. For a temp test I took an adapter plug that was 7 pin to a flat four. I then took a wire harness for a flat four and plugged it into it after I wired all four leads. The three hot leads (2 turn signals, 1 run light) with 3 bulbs. Then took the second wire from each bulb and connected all three together to the ground wire on the flat four harness. So you end up with 3 bulbs wired to 3 diff leads, and all three wired together to one ground.  This does not stop my back up censors or any other part of my safety features. ( I have the safety package on a 2023 AT4 )  After testing I took off all that and instead of wiring three bulbs through the adaptor and the flat four harness, I wired the 3 bulbs to the truck leads coming in from the back side of the truck receptacle just as the manufactures came into it to wire it in the first place. Now I have 3 bulbs tucked up into the back side of my bumper that nobody can see and nothing plugged in my receptacle of the truck. You must buy bulbs with two wires ( one to hot lead, one to grounds ) If you dont wire all three hot leads you will get faults telling you something is wrong with the ones you dont wire.   

On 5/28/2020 at 6:57 PM, morrislee said:

I am sure this does disable bunch of features too, but I am wondering if there is a better way than leaving something plugged in. Maybe wire of the ground to something will make it think something is connected.

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/1/2023 at 6:02 PM, Tom L M said:

I have been trying several things and I finally was able to make it work. For a temp test I took an adapter plug that was 7 pin to a flat four. I then took a wire harness for a flat four and plugged it into it after I wired all four leads. The three hot leads (2 turn signals, 1 run light) with 3 bulbs. Then took the second wire from each bulb and connected all three together to the ground wire on the flat four harness. So you end up with 3 bulbs wired to 3 diff leads, and all three wired together to one ground.  This does not stop my back up censors or any other part of my safety features. ( I have the safety package on a 2023 AT4 )  After testing I took off all that and instead of wiring three bulbs through the adaptor and the flat four harness, I wired the 3 bulbs to the truck leads coming in from the back side of the truck receptacle just as the manufactures came into it to wire it in the first place. Now I have 3 bulbs tucked up into the back side of my bumper that nobody can see and nothing plugged in my receptacle of the truck. You must buy bulbs with two wires ( one to hot lead, one to grounds ) If you dont wire all three hot leads you will get faults telling you something is wrong with the ones you dont wire.   

 

Add a normally closed relay in series with ground and controlled by a lead from backup light.

Posted
On 5/1/2023 at 6:02 PM, Tom L M said:

I have been trying several things and I finally was able to make it work. For a temp test I took an adapter plug that was 7 pin to a flat four. I then took a wire harness for a flat four and plugged it into it after I wired all four leads. The three hot leads (2 turn signals, 1 run light) with 3 bulbs. Then took the second wire from each bulb and connected all three together to the ground wire on the flat four harness. So you end up with 3 bulbs wired to 3 diff leads, and all three wired together to one ground.  This does not stop my back up censors or any other part of my safety features. ( I have the safety package on a 2023 AT4 )  After testing I took off all that and instead of wiring three bulbs through the adaptor and the flat four harness, I wired the 3 bulbs to the truck leads coming in from the back side of the truck receptacle just as the manufactures came into it to wire it in the first place. Now I have 3 bulbs tucked up into the back side of my bumper that nobody can see and nothing plugged in my receptacle of the truck. You must buy bulbs with two wires ( one to hot lead, one to grounds ) If you dont wire all three hot leads you will get faults telling you something is wrong with the ones you dont wire.   

 

 

Posted

Install a normally closed contact relay in series with the ground and light leads connected together.  Connect the relay coil to the backup light switched lead.

     While driving forward ground is connected to three bypass lights.  While in reverse backup light circuit is activated thereby activating NC relay which opens ground to the three bypass lights, WALAA, disconnecting cameras and the system no longer thinks there is a trailer back there.

uxcell JD-1914 5 Pin DC 12V 40A

on Amazon 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,301 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...