Jump to content

Kicker speaker amp and sub upgrade

Brocko103
 Share

Recommended Posts

Brocko103 Enthusiast

Brocko103

Posted
Posted

I upgraded my system last week and I’m happy overall with the upgrade over stock. I found that tweaking the 3 band eq on the head unit is necessary for best performance. The 5 band eq on the Kicker Flex Tune app is more for fine tuning, and I don’t think it has much if any effect on the subwoofer. Turning up the bass on the 3 band eq had a big effect on the sub’s performance. I had to flip switches on the amp to 1-5 up, 6 down since the settings from the factory suck bad. 
 

It’s decent for the cost, but I know I have enough skills to run my own power wires and connect a wiring harness adapter to do a better job for less. 
 

So anyways, I photographed the install in my 2019 double cab. Check out this link for the photo album. There’s descriptions under each picture. I’ll try to answer any questions you might have.
 

https://imgur.com/a/K86b8MT 

Sjordan Enthusiast

Sjordan

Posted
Posted

I am on the fence on this one because of cost, but ease of just having everything.  Non-bose here as well.  I will add the kicker knob as well though to adjust bass on the fly.  I have installed many systems in my day, but it seems like custom boxes for these trucks are so expensive this may be worth it to have it all delivered to my door.

Brocko103 Enthusiast

Brocko103

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Sjordan said:

I am on the fence on this one because of cost, but ease of just having everything.  Non-bose here as well.  I will add the kicker knob as well though to adjust bass on the fly.  I have installed many systems in my day, but it seems like custom boxes for these trucks are so expensive this may be worth it to have it all delivered to my door.

I was very torn on buying this or building my system. I finally decided that my time was worth more than the cost of this kit. I have the power wire, sub, and amp from my last pickup, so I would have only needed to buy the loop back harness and a signal processor and an amp for the door speakers then build a sub box. I just didn't want to dedicate the time and energy into finding the components and putting it all together. Overall, I'm happy with the upgrade, but $1,000 can go a long ways into building a nicer system, especially if you already have some pieces like I do. Right now, I'm happy enough that I don't see an immediate need to replace the door speakers, but I might think about it in the future.

Sjordan Enthusiast

Sjordan

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Brocko103 said:

I was very torn on buying this or building my system. I finally decided that my time was worth more than the cost of this kit. I have the power wire, sub, and amp from my last pickup, so I would have only needed to buy the loop back harness and a signal processor and an amp for the door speakers then build a sub box. I just didn't want to dedicate the time and energy into finding the components and putting it all together. Overall, I'm happy with the upgrade, but $1,000 can go a long ways into building a nicer system, especially if you already have some pieces like I do. Right now, I'm happy enough that I don't see an immediate need to replace the door speakers, but I might think about it in the future.

Also good to know as I was worried I would want to swap speakers immediately after.

  • 3 years later...
Elbow Joe Enthusiast

Elbow Joe

Posted
Posted
On 6/1/2020 at 11:33 PM, Brocko103 said:

I upgraded my system last week and I’m happy overall with the upgrade over stock. I found that tweaking the 3 band eq on the head unit is necessary for best performance. The 5 band eq on the Kicker Flex Tune app is more for fine tuning, and I don’t think it has much if any effect on the subwoofer. Turning up the bass on the 3 band eq had a big effect on the sub’s performance. I had to flip switches on the amp to 1-5 up, 6 down since the settings from the factory suck bad. 
 

It’s decent for the cost, but I know I have enough skills to run my own power wires and connect a wiring harness adapter to do a better job for less. 
 

So anyways, I photographed the install in my 2019 double cab. Check out this link for the photo album. There’s descriptions under each picture. I’ll try to answer any questions you might have.
 

https://imgur.com/a/K86b8MT 

Thanks for this info and photos!! I can’t believe that GM puts such crappy sound systems in a $60K vehicle and that it costs north of $1K to “fix” it. I contacted Crutchfield initially, but I think the kicker solution might be better for me as it is matched to the truck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...