Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ordered a Stillen tru power intake for my 2020 lt trailboss 6.2. When I installed it I found that I have  the aero louvres behind my grill. From what little I have found the louvres close at 55 mph, which would basically kill the ram air effect for the new intake. My question is does anyone know if you can remove the top louvres without hurting the rest? Has anyone else tried this?  After I got it on I made a roughly 500 mile drive to Detroit, but I couldn’t tell if it did anything cause I also just got the gm cold air intake on the truck and had the dealership adjust the maf.

Posted
6 hours ago, Presley said:

Ordered a Stillen tru power intake for my 2020 lt trailboss 6.2. When I installed it I found that I have  the aero louvres behind my grill. From what little I have found the louvres close at 55 mph, which would basically kill the ram air effect for the new intake. My question is does anyone know if you can remove the top louvres without hurting the rest? Has anyone else tried this?  After I got it on I made a roughly 500 mile drive to Detroit, but I couldn’t tell if it did anything cause I also just got the gm cold air intake on the truck and had the dealership adjust the maf.

I think GM’s plan was to pull air from the gap between the hood and the grille for the intake but to answer your question you can remove the top left one to see if it makes any difference.  You will throw a code only if the actuator motor does not completely open or close, there are no limit switches on the vanes, it is in the actuator motor in the center of the vanes.  So basically you can remove all of them as long as the actuator is moving.  I work for a company that makes the shutters and we have some vehicles especially HD that they intestinally leave out a set of vanes for cooling. With that said the T1XX vanes are not easy to snap out, you may break it trying to pull it out and your drive link will still move up and down so make sure it is not obstructed or the actuator motor will “think” one is jammed and throw a code.

  • Like 1
Posted

I was able to remove the top left and right shutters without damaging them. Just not sure when I’m going to have a long enough drive so I can tell if it helps 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Your not getting a ram air effect from that, your basically just letting in more dirt and water.

Posted

It’s hard to tell, cause I had just got the gm cold air intake on, but I did takeout two of the aero shutters and it did feel like it had more pep while on the interstate. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

Your not getting a ram air effect from that, your basically just letting in more dirt and water.

If you have the aero shutters you won’t, but when you remove the top left and top right shutter you will. 

  • 3 years later...
Posted
22 hours ago, typhoon186 said:

how did you remove them?

I wouldn't be waiting for a response from Presley. He hasn't visited this site since April 2021.

Posted

Installed my Stillen scoop and removed the top row of blade in the shutters.  Very easy to remove them by pulling the center towards the engine with both hands while pulling the ends out of the housing.  slips right out without damaging anything.  the actuator and other blades work as usual.  this give a clean shot of direct air into the scoop even when the shutters close.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,804
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    LCH14
    Newest Member
    LCH14
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,235 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yea a fluid change is in order here. Honestly, your transmission didn’t even get hot. During the summer in stop and go traffic I’ve seen my 8l80 get up to 216 and it was still shifting smoothly. 
    • I'd change the fluid and start there.   198F is nothing for the 8L90.  They typically operate 180-200F stock.  
    • Looking for help!   2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 5.3l 4x4 8l90 61k miles - truck is in Arizona, was over 110 outside on Monday when this whole situation transpired. Never had any major issues with transmission until this point:   Truck sat outside my construction office for approx 1 hour idling before I realized, ran around the job site wrapping some things up for the day and then left. Went to get food and sat in the drive through for approx 30 minutes idling. As soon as I pull out of the drive through and onto the main road, rear tires lock up and feels like transmission fell out of the truck. Shifted to park, shut the truck off and tried again, same thing happened. Was able to reverse into parking lot (truck slammed into reverse). Let the truck sit turned off for 10 minutes before trying again, but it continued to happen. Towed truck back to my house. Highest the trans temps reached was 198.   Friday, after work I start looking into the situation. Truck sat in my driveway untouched all week. Truck is now driving like normal, transmission doesn’t get over 185 degrees when trying to heat it up. Got up to 60 multiples times with no issues, no issues accelerating, only down shifted hard into first one time at 185 degrees. Does anyone have any insight? Never through a code or a check engine light. Truck has never been used to tow either. No transmission services at this point.
    • Atlas won.   I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged.   Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed.   Made my day.   Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...