Jump to content

What is really meant by the term "these engines like to run warm"?

14burrito

By 14burrito
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, 14burrito said:

 

Thank you for the follow-up!

What's your end game here? General knowledge? Solving a problem? Planning a modification? Other?

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

No my motor isn't a 5.3. It's the 4.3 but it is the same architecture. The water and oil don't know what motors it's in.     I'm one of those old guys Cameron is talking about. I ditched my

lucas287
lucas287

I'm beginning to think that either:   1) the previous owner of my truck swapped the tstat for a cooler one   -or-   2) my tstat is indeed stuck open.    As long

14burrito
14burrito

@Grumpy Bear   Thank you for your response and information.   Very well stated: "OEM's have their reasons. The EPA have theirs. I have mine. We don't all agree."  

Posted Images

14burrito Enthusiast

14burrito

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

What's your end game here? General knowledge? Solving a problem? Planning a modification? Other?

Interestingly enough, a little bit of everything you mentioned.

 

This is our first GM. IMPO the cooling "strategy" has room for improvement. Based off peoples comments so far, going along with what I am seeing...I find the OE strategy (SW tuning and HW) to be lacking (my comparison is based off other vehicles, so take that FWIW).  Came here to research other peoples experience and what they were seeing. Also, see what people have been doing to remedy the "warn running" condition (plenty of info out there on that topic, so wanted this thread to be more specific and not a discussion of that). Seemingly the main go-to is a t-stat and HPTuners cooling fan tuning adjustments. The aux cooler, aside from the trans, seems to be on the back burner as I only found one person who has the Mishimoto one installed and they never responded to my DM.

 

Do you happen to know where I can find more details on the Dex-cool?

Going back to its history and not having a great record under high heat / load conditions - I do not see, personally, that there is any special Dex-cool formulation for the L83. Seemingly its the same stuff every other GM uses. The previous 3 GMs I have driven in the past couple months, all small SUVs, never reached ECT temps above like 190F. What is happening to the coolant/structure under thermal cycles in the L83?

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, 14burrito said:

Interestingly enough, a little bit of everything you mentioned.

 

Do you happen to know where I can find more details on the Dex-cool?

Going back to its history and not having a great record under high heat / load conditions - I do not see, personally, that there is any special Dex-cool formulation for the L83. 

Okay we're fishing. 

 

Here's what I can tell you about Dex-Cool. I've been using it in everything GM for about 20 years without a single issue. Most issues came from users mixing it with something else. There were some issues with head gasket material incompatibility in motors that were for other reasons overheated exposing some material it didn't get along with.  VERY ancient news. Change it when your suppose to change it and you will never have an issue with it. 

 

 

  • Like 1
14burrito Enthusiast

14burrito

Posted
  • Author
Posted
38 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Okay we're fishing. 

 

Here's what I can tell you about Dex-Cool. I've been using it in everything GM for about 20 years without a single issue. Most issues came from users mixing it with something else. There were some issues with head gasket material incompatibility in motors that were for other reasons overheated exposing some material it didn't get along with.  VERY ancient news. Change it when your suppose to change it and you will never have an issue with it. 

 

 

Isn't research fishing until you find answers? :)

 

Thank you for the input, personal experience and info. 

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Real simple. Change all the fluids. More often is better. Changing the fluids according to the severe duty schedule has worked well for me for over 50 years.

:)

 

  • Thanks 1
14burrito Enthusiast

14burrito

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Real simple. Change all the fluids. More often is better. Changing the fluids according to the severe duty schedule has worked well for me for over 50 years.

:)

 

What's your coolant exchange schedule?

 

Since you decided to chime in, what's your experience with coolant temps? :)

pickmeup Enthusiast

pickmeup

Posted
Posted

There was a thread about coolant temps on gauge cluster here in about 2015. seems like someone reported with his mechanical gauge 210 on truck was really 198- 200 ran on aftermarket mechanical gauge.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, 14burrito said:

What's your coolant exchange schedule?

 

Since you decided to chime in, what's your experience with coolant temps? :)

My owners manual says service coolant at 150 K miles. At a minimum I would do 75 K miles. I did mine at about 60 K miles.

Whatever the manual miles for all services I cut the miles in half at least. Did my spark plugs at about 60 K miles not the manual 97500 miles.

As far as temps I don't worry about it because I do fluid changes.

I clean the radiator, A/C condenser and oil cooler when I do the coolant service.  

:)

Edited by diyer2
  • Thanks 1
14burrito Enthusiast

14burrito

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

My owners manual says service coolant at 150 K miles. At a minimum I would do 75 K miles. I did mine at about 60 K miles.

Whatever the manual miles for all services I cut the miles in half at least. Did my spark plugs at about 60 K miles not the manual 97500 miles.

As far as temps I don't worry about it because I do fluid changes.

I clean the radiator, A/C condenser and oil cooler when I do the coolant service.  

:)

Well, appreciate your input on maintenance schedules.

 

As per my OP, and posts thereafter suggest, I am looking for numbers in this thread. Real world values from people including their conditions. Was hoping you actually had some data to provide aside from, I dont worry about it because I change fluids more frequently.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

As per my OP, and posts thereafter suggest, I am looking for numbers in this thread. Real world values from people including their conditions. Was hoping you actually had some data to provide aside from, I dont worry about it because I change fluids more frequently.

Over thinking it IMO. Not worth my time. 

:)

14burrito Enthusiast

14burrito

Posted
  • Author
Posted
57 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

As per my OP, and posts thereafter suggest, I am looking for numbers in this thread. Real world values from people including their conditions. Was hoping you actually had some data to provide aside from, I dont worry about it because I change fluids more frequently.

Over thinking it IMO. Not worth my time. 

:)

Seemingly it was, because you added to thread...otherwise, if it really wasn't, you wouldn't have. ?

  • Haha 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
40 minutes ago, 14burrito said:

Seemingly it was, because you added to thread...otherwise, if it really wasn't, you wouldn't have. ?

Gotta tell ya 14burrito, your poking at the wrong guy. diyeer2 gives solid input. Might not be what you want to hear but more often than not what you need to hear. Your better off with his advice than without. IMHO of course. 

14burrito Enthusiast

14burrito

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Gotta tell ya 14burrito, your poking at the wrong guy. diyeer2 gives solid input. Might not be what you want to hear but more often than not what you need to hear. Your better off with his advice than without. IMHO of course. 

My response was a little facetious and I included the emoji to try and help that come across not as rude, but rather - something sparked interest enough for him to make a comment. Did not ever say that I did not appreciate what diyeer2 stated, but the thread was created asking for #s. He did indeed chime in, provided some personal feedback (which was noted and appreciated) but did not really provide what was being asked for in this discussion.

 

Not trying to make any internet foes by any means. Genuinely reaching out and trying to stir some back and forth discussion as I (again, personally opinion) feel that the cooling strategy seems off, odd or otherwise.

 

Goes back to what a wise person stated earlier in this thread:

"OEM's have their reasons. The EPA have theirs. I have mine. We don't all agree."

 

Edited by 14burrito
  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I know your mama told you once or twice that you don't have to voice every thought in your head. 

 

DISNEY

"Thumper! What did your daddy tell you?"

 

"If ya can't say nothing nice don't say nothing at all."

Looking down kicking at the dirt. 

:crackup:

 

Hey, but I'm no ones moral compass, right? You have a PM. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,000 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...