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Posted
Because they call them air deflectors, not mud flaps. They are supposed to help reduce drag of the air hitting the tires.
 
But I added flaps to my rear because I was sick of scraping snow out of my bumper, otherwise I get huge puddles of slush in the garage. What a difference decent flaps make in snow country.
Plus they will keep the dirt out of there. There is a photo in the exhaust tips thread where someone removed the step. I was shocked how much dirt was in there on a nearly new truck.

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Posted

Mine showed up yesterday. I will install them this weekend.

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Posted

Well I installed mine today. I agree that lower hinge thing is not going to work. I cut them off too. I did use the screw and nut on the bottom. There is not a place for the speed nut so I just put it on top and tightened it.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I know it's a little late for some in me posting this BUT here it is anyhow. The trucks come with the "Fronts" only installed and GM does NOT offer "Matching" rear guards!!! To get matching guards you must order them both.  Now keep in mind to install the guards that GM offers on the Accessory website, you must drill into the fenders. I found that the Weathertech No-Drill rear guards not only match must closer to the front stock ones but you don't have to drill holes of course!

Posted
I know it's a little late for some in me posting this BUT here it is anyhow. The trucks come with the "Fronts" only installed and GM does NOT offer "Matching" rear guards!!! To get matching guards you must order them both.  Now keep in mind to install the guards that GM offers on the Accessory website, you must drill into the fenders. I found that the Weathertech No-Drill rear guards not only match must closer to the front stock ones but you don't have to drill holes of course!
The Durabed fenders are aluminum. Drilling in them is not the problem it would be with steel. Just use the provided hardware as the wrong hardware will corrode aluminum.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Duramaxsky said:

The Durabed fenders are aluminum. Drilling in them is not the problem it would be with steel. Just use the provided hardware as the wrong hardware will corrode aluminum.

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You are correct about dissimilar metal corrosion on the GMCs but the Chevrolets are steel not aluminum, plus the fact that on either of them you are drilling holes which I and I'm sure others have a problem drilling into a new truck!

Posted
You are correct about dissimilar metal corrosion on the GMCs but the Chevrolets are steel not aluminum, plus the fact that on either of them you are drilling holes which I and I'm sure others have a problem drilling into a new truck!
My truck is a Chevy and has the Durabed according to the window sticker. The web site says it has high strength steel for the floor. Mild steel for the interior box sides and aluminum for the exterior box sides and the tail gate. I tested it with a magnet and they are not steel.

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Posted
22 minutes ago, Duramaxsky said:

My truck is a Chevy and has the Durabed according to the window sticker. The web site says it has high strength steel for the floor. Mild steel for the interior box sides and aluminum for the exterior box sides and the tail gate. I tested it with a magnet and they are not steel.

Interesting----My understanding that only the hood, tailgate and I believe doors were aluminum??


 

 

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 9/28/2020 at 7:11 AM, Spyderwebb said:

That's odd, the compatibility reference indicates they will fit a 2020 Silverado LT Trail Boss Crew Cab with the 5.3... but not the 6.2  

Mine is a 6.2 but I missed the compatibility cross reference and went with these because it was on the "fits these vehicles" reference chart:  

2020 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Trail Boss Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 5.3L 5328CC 325Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated

 

I think they simply failed to list the 6.2 version and subsequently it doesn't cross reference. 

 

Anyway they worked for me, although I did trim off the bottom flip over pinch tab... and on the very bottom tab I drilled and used another rivet since there was not an existing screw hole as the instructions suggested.

Scan0042.pdf 522.84 kB · 84 downloads

Nice Job on the install. I just received mine. I have 1 quick question, do you have to drill in to the metal in steps 6 of install instruction?

Posted (edited)

Yes, as I recall I drilled one screw hole on the bottom, for the extended bottom fender mount, this was on the back only.  Sealed the hole with a little touch up paint for protection!

 

I'll take a close up picture and send it in a sec!

 

Edited by Spyderwebb
Posted (edited)

Here is a picture looking from the ground up directly beneath the rear mudflap.  You can see I used a black anodized or aluminum rivet to secure.

IMG_2153 (002).jpg

Edited by Spyderwebb

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