Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Happy to be here. First GM truck in 24 years! Bought this ‘20 Sierra 4x4 base a month or so ago and dig into it a bit. 
aside from interior bits like console storage, mats, trim and some audio, i lowered it 3/4” with a combo of Beltech front 0-3” shocks, that have completely transformed the ride. I was disgusted with how floaty and wallopy the stock suspension was, so opted for the shocks only i lieu of spindles. Couldn’t be happier, highly recommend replacing the shocks whether you’re going up or down.

 

Rear is a Maxtrac 4” axle flip kit. Beautiful kit, installed quick and near seamlessly. There is no C Notch with this kit as i was just unwilling to cut the frame. I cut the brake line holder tabs off the axle, but didn’t cut the bump stop plates off the frame either. For the extra 1/2” of clearance, i couldn’t justify it. I do hit the stops as is though, so some modified sprinter sumosprings are going in in place of the bump stops. I like the idea of the added load, have been very happy with sumosprings in another truck and also replaced the rear swaybar purchase with the sumos to battle rear sway. Wish me luck. 
 

GM accessory wheels were financed with the truck, but I’ll replace them before spring I’m sure. They just don’t do it for me. 
painted the bumpers silver as well and am really happy with that. Range AFM disabler and AFM Jr intake with dry filter is installed for a bit more throat.
Overall, very happy and excited for more tuning options to arise.

321531DF-64CF-44E4-ADB0-DFB95E4B7DD9.jpeg

F1DC8AAD-3220-448D-A432-918CBF5FB83D.jpeg

Edited by keefsmif
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    C. Hart
    Newest Member
    C. Hart
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 592 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the help!   I'm going to stop into the scales one of these days and weigh my axels, for the time being, I am going to run Toyo's recommendations and also do a chalk test. I have a tire shop that's going to try their scanner to reprogram and set the the factory psi values lower, and if they can't I'm going to order a scanner and do it myself!
    • You won’t do better than stock exhaust without headers. Just put your favorite muffler on it and it will do the job. 
    • I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"     I'd say its the head, and its either leaking at the casting line and dripping down the intake into the cylinder, or its another spot on the casting itself at the cylinder that is getting wet.  
    • Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...