Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Looking for a supercharger /procharger to just add a little more power and keep the drivability and smog working normal. I want to push it to almost the limit but still pass smog with cats on. Notnlooking to race but looking to have some power on tap really just Looking for input on bolt on kits and ive been leaning procharger kits that work my concern is smog . I dont mind adding more fuel or flex fuel id actually prefer to convert to flex instead of being limited to 91 but if 91 is the most simple to pass smog thats what ill do. Open to suggestions i like procharger sounds but whipple is fine too .Truck has 5.3 80k and only mod is CAI.

 

some questions i have forbthose who have procharged or supercharged 

 

1.was the DOD eliminated?

2.can you covert to e85/flex and whats needed

3.with flex is fuel tapped out on injector/pump

4.what would compromise my smog passing abilities 

5. tuner or full kit?id prefer tonhave my own tuner to squeeze more out but is it worth it

Edited by 15GMCALLTERRIAN
Posted

what state are you located in?   as that will let others really weigh on on smog concerns.

 

if you are in unfriendly state, you will have more hoops to jump through.  ?

 

 

also do you want power throughout rpm range or more towards upper end?

if upper end, i hear procharger is best for that.

if you want full range, look towards whipple or magnuson or LSA

 

 

i have a magnuson 1900.  started w/ their tune.  then upgraded to Blackbear tune (BBP).

i had DOD disabled by BBP

 

 

cant speak to e85/flex fuel, but someone else can weigh in.

 

 

i have no issues passing my states emission test.

 

lots of users here seem to be happy w/ BBP or HP tuners

Posted (edited)
On 11/19/2020 at 12:56 PM, 15GMCALLTERRIAN said:

Looking for a supercharger /procharger to just add a little more power and keep the drivability and smog working normal. I want to push it to almost the limit but still pass smog with cats on. Notnlooking to race but looking to have some power on tap really just Looking for input on bolt on kits and ive been leaning procharger kits that work my concern is smog . I dont mind adding more fuel or flex fuel id actually prefer to convert to flex instead of being limited to 91 but if 91 is the most simple to pass smog thats what ill do. Open to suggestions i like procharger sounds but whipple is fine too .Truck has 5.3 80k and only mod is CAI.

 

some questions i have forbthose who have procharged or supercharged 

 

1.was the DOD eliminated?

2.can you covert to e85/flex and whats needed

3.with flex is fuel tapped out on injector/pump

4.what would compromise my smog passing abilities 

5. tuner or full kit?id prefer tonhave my own tuner to squeeze more out but is it worth it

I have no experience with blowers. Procharging is supercharging, its just a different style compared to the more well known roots style blower.

 

1. You can eliminate it but you dont have to. Overall cost will go up dramatically, and you may as well change the cam if your doing the lifters.

2. Yes. You just need an e85 flex fuel sensor installed if your truck doesn't already have one.

3. Yes I believe with e85 you are really pushing your luck with the stock system.

4. Should be no issues with smog. As long as you have the factory converters I don't see why this would be an issue. Tuning is more of factor then the parts installed. With that said I have no idea what laws your state may have regarding aftermarket modifications.

5. I've heard the tuning that comes with a supercharger can be very good. If you want to get every last drop out if it, you'll want it tuned on a dyno and the street.

Edited by M1ck3y
Posted
9 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

I have no experience with blowers. Procharging is supercharging, its just a different style compared to the more well known roots style blower.

 

1. You can eliminate it but you dont have to. Overall cost will go up dramatically, and you may as well change the cam if your doing the lifters.

2. Yes. You just need an e85 flex fuel sensor installed if your truck doesn't already have one.

3. Yes I believe with e85 you are really pushing your luck with the stock system.

4. Should be no issues with smog. As long as you have the factory converters I don't see why this would be an issue. Tuning is more of factor then the parts installed. With that said I have no idea what laws your state may have regarding aftermarket modifications.

5. I've heard the tuning that comes with a supercharger can be very good. If you want to get every last drop out if it, you'll want it tuned on a dyno and the street.

Thanks for the reply, i may just be over thinking this CA smog crap. Still undecided on the blower style , leaning towards whipple at this time but flirting with procharger . I may get either and add that flex fuel sensor or conversion then see what i can do with 91 Change the pulley  and see where i run out of fuel injector or pump . Im thinking for sure ill need some more fuel if i go e85

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Thanks everyone for the replys , the current progress is that the 2.9 whipple kit has been ordered has a carb sticker and come with whipple tune easy bolt on and go . Ofcourse im looking to push the envelope still to squeeze out another 100-150hp .

looking into but not committed to


-e85 sensor

-lt4 injectors 

-lt4 high pressure fuel pump

-jose zambrano 535 intank

-3bar map sensor upgrade 

-custom tune

-ict spacers for whipple /lt4 pump or grind manifold

 

 Not sure if grinding the whipple manifold or using the ict spacers for the lt4 , the cost and all the extra is worth the hassle of possibly not passing smog . If smog wasnt an issue it all be worth it . I guess im still trying to convince myself if i should go all in and risk not passing smog. I want to believe thatbifbthe truck is tuned with the fuel upgrades correctly it should not have any issues passing but i have no clue if thats how it works

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

i wonder how well a 8psi single turbo, without an IC would work on these trucks.? keep the power down to 480hp. i think the stock fueling system can support that.. shoulnt cost more than $2500 diy on 91 octane

Edited by flyingfool
Posted

might ask whipple, if they started modifying their superchargers to allow for the lt4 hpfp.

if they did, could save a few bucks

Posted
On 12/1/2020 at 11:12 PM, gat0r said:

since you are in Cali

 

make sure whatever you get has a CARB#

?

does the LT4 SC have a carb number?

Posted
3 hours ago, flyingfool said:

does the LT4 SC have a carb number?

i am not familiar, but i would assume no it doesnt (not by itself).  As all the kits on tuner pages that i have seen clearly state they do not have CARB & not Cali legal.

 

i think the only way for an LT4SC to work in Cali is to buy a whole crate engine w/ SC from GM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...