Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all. New to the world of Chevy & my Suburban (I've had it for about a week now). I noticed, after I bought it (of course) that it's making a whining sound when I play the radio. If I turn the back unit to "headphone-mode" the whining stops.

 

I've done some research on this, and I have a few ideas but primarily, I'm wondering if it could be that one of the cables in the head unit, is maybe hitting a piece of metal inside/grounding or something? I've seen people recommend tightening the positive/negative hookups on the battery, which I tried but they're already super tight and I can't turn them anymore. Another suggested the alternator, but I'd assume I'd see other issues if that were the case. The primary has been something hitting a "ground."

 

I bought some pry tools to remove the head unit panel, but I haven't done anything with that yet, waiting on a 7mm socket to arrive. I need to pull that off to change out the outlet covers anyway, so I'd be in that neck of the woods, but I'm not 100% sure what exactly I'm looking for.

 

Wondering if any of you have any suggestions/examples/experience with this particular issue. Any responses are extremely appreciated. Thanks! :)

Posted

IF the whining changes with engine RPM, that's called "alternate whine" - do a Google search on that. Usually more, or better grounds fix that issue.

Posted
13 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

IF the whining changes with engine RPM, that's called "alternate whine" - do a Google search on that. Usually more, or better grounds fix that issue.

Wow, awesome! Thank you for the info. Sure enough, it does indeed change with the RPM and gets much worse the higher the RPM's go. I'll take a look at that and find out more about these "grounds." Need to figure out how those work and how to fix/add better ones.

  • Like 1
Posted

RFI noise on the radio is usually a bad ground somewhere.  When its only on FM radio, it can be a missing ground strap between fender and engine or even hood to body.  If it is a whine that increases in in pitch that follows the engine speed, it can be the alternator having a bad component.  First thing to do is look over the fuse panels if you just bought a used vehicle.  Look for any add on wiring, and check all the fuses with a test light probe to each of the exposed metal contacts on the top of each side of the fuse.  

The noise stopping when you switch to rear headphone mode will stop the noise in the rear speakers simply because the noise is likely in the connected headphones now.  What happens when you play a CD or MP3 USB stick?  If the noise is only when on the radio, check AM as well.  Radio RFI noise can be caused by a cut or frayed antenna cable, unplugging the antenna from the radio may correct the noise, it will also stop reception, but if the noise is gone as well, look at the cable or grounds from antenna base to battery through the body connections.

  • Like 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

IF the whining changes with engine RPM, that's called "alternate whine" - do a Google search on that. Usually more, or better grounds fix that issue.

typing one sentence is cheating.

  • Haha 1
Posted

I'd have typed more, but I've forgotten all the remedies for alternate whine ... ?

Posted
14 minutes ago, Doug_Scott said:

RFI noise on the radio is usually a bad ground somewhere.  When its only on FM radio, it can be a missing ground strap between fender and engine or even hood to body.  If it is a whine that increases in in pitch that follows the engine speed, it can be the alternator having a bad component.  First thing to do is look over the fuse panels if you just bought a used vehicle.  Look for any add on wiring, and check all the fuses with a test light probe to each of the exposed metal contacts on the top of each side of the fuse.  

The noise stopping when you switch to rear headphone mode will stop the noise in the rear speakers simply because the noise is likely in the connected headphones now.  What happens when you play a CD or MP3 USB stick?  If the noise is only when on the radio, check AM as well.  Radio RFI noise can be caused by a cut or frayed antenna cable, unplugging the antenna from the radio may correct the noise, it will also stop reception, but if the noise is gone as well, look at the cable or grounds from antenna base to battery through the body connections.

Fantastic, thank you so much for the thorough write-up. My husband and I will have some work to do this coming weekend then. It has a "base-level" system, so sadly no USB or anything. I want to change out the entire unit, maybe to something more like this, though I'm open to suggestions on that. Do you think changing it out entirely would perhaps fix this issue altogether? If so, I'll hold off on it until I can pick up one of these.

Posted
31 minutes ago, Darbii Rue said:

Fantastic, thank you so much for the thorough write-up. My husband and I will have some work to do this coming weekend then. It has a "base-level" system, so sadly no USB or anything. I want to change out the entire unit, maybe to something more like this, though I'm open to suggestions on that. Do you think changing it out entirely would perhaps fix this issue altogether? If so, I'll hold off on it until I can pick up one of these.

Its not likely going to be the head unit, but it is possible.  Is the sound system completely stock?  You mention rear headphones, did it come with rear headphones?  If you are going with an aftermarket system pay attention to how it interfaces with the original system in the truck.  Things like steering wheel controls, connecting to the CANBUS, accepting the factory wiring connectors without using universal adaptors etc.  If you are going to go aftermarket, get an android system, and make sure it is at least current o/s, being ready to accept update to next android is good to have as well.  10 years ago there was not a whole lot of options for upgrading stock head unit.  I got the OGM1 unit that looks very similar to the 2010 factory NAV unit.  It was a complete plug in, even connected to factory backup camera.  But, the head unit is only the start, you will want to change speakers, then amplifiers and subwoofer box, it will take on a life of its own.   Stick with something you are able to get warranty on a well.  Electronics generally fail early if they are going to fail, but if you purchased it from China, sending it back will cost more than buying another one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...