Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Added LED lights under the bed rail with a toggle switch utilizing a factory hole leading into the stake post hole, had to drill it a little bigger for my switch.  Used the post hole for my wiring, fuse, etc...  covers for the post holes coming soon, tonneau comes Monday.

IMG_20210205_172610.jpg

IMG_20210205_172538.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello, Your light job looks great. Im in the process of doing something very similar. Mind of I ask which lights you used and how/what power source you used? I mounted LED strip lights under the bed rails and spliced the wires into the cargo lights. When I turn on the cargo lights the LED strip lights and stock LED bed lights flash 3 times and then turn off. Any help you could send my way would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Posted
29 minutes ago, Pappy300 said:

Hello, Your light job looks great. Im in the process of doing something very similar. Mind of I ask which lights you used and how/what power source you used? I mounted LED strip lights under the bed rails and spliced the wires into the cargo lights. When I turn on the cargo lights the LED strip lights and stock LED bed lights flash 3 times and then turn off. Any help you could send my way would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

I ran power straight from the battery to the back of the truck and used a toggle switch in one of the stock holes in the side that goes into the side stake post, that's where I ran the wires and fused them. The led lights are just a generic set of lights that I found at my local parts store on clearance.

Posted
10 minutes ago, BloodRedSkies737 said:

Pretty rad! 

I had thought about running them from the stock lights, but I wanted independent control for when I am loading stuff inside, didnt want to have to bother with having to go inside and flip the switch...   I ran a heavier gauge primary wire to the back, incase I need other power options back there, I can run to a fuse block and pull power to indpendent sources.  I have a small tidy tank with an electric pump that I may put back in too, so im prepared...  😃

Posted
1 hour ago, Pappy300 said:

Hello, Your light job looks great. Im in the process of doing something very similar. Mind of I ask which lights you used and how/what power source you used? I mounted LED strip lights under the bed rails and spliced the wires into the cargo lights. When I turn on the cargo lights the LED strip lights and stock LED bed lights flash 3 times and then turn off. Any help you could send my way would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Can't tie directly into the cargo light wiring, there isn't enough voltage to that wire to power everything.  You will need to use a relay and use the existing cargo light power as your trigger.

Posted

Is that why the strip lights and the stock box lights flash 3 times and then turn off? Any idea where I can find the correct relay? 

Posted

I read in a different thread that using a diode might solve my problem, any idea if thats true or not?

  • 3 years later...
Posted
On 3/23/2021 at 8:52 PM, Pappy300 said:

I read in a different thread that using a diode might solve my problem, any idea if thats true or not?


did this work?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...