Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,

 

I'm a new member and hoping to use all of your vast membership resources to help me out.

 

I bought a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500 HD extended cab with the 6 liter a few months ago and am trying to get it ready to pass inspection now that he weather seems to be getting a bit less frigid. It's got 130,000 miles and seems to still run strong.

I had some codes when I got it and traced the cause to the leaking intake manifold gaskets, which I replaced on my own with the steel fel-pro gaskets - no more codes.

 

My current problem is that the intermediate parking brake cable was snapped, so I bought a replacement cable. Was able to take off the old cable and attached it to the front cable, but I don't understand the how it attaches to the rear cables. It looks like there are 2 cables, one going to the rear left, and one going to the rear right parking brakes, but it looks like only one of the cables can attach to the back of the intermediate cable.

The truck has the HVY RPO code (2 inch lift), which I understand (or am completely wrong) does not have an "equalizer."

 

I can't seem to find any diagrams/schematics/pictures of what this connection looks like - could anyone who has a similar truck please take a few  pictures of what that connection looks like and post it here?

 

Thank you for your help.

Posted

These two rear cable join along the DS just behind the door on exterior of the frame. This part, If the rest is hooked up, you do last. To get it hooked, youll need to drag the front cable back ( make sure pedal inside is UP, may have to release and pull up on pedal, or bungie it up ) Pull back on the front cable with vise grips and slide the combined cable holder on to that front cable.

 I have had these E brake set ups and rear bearings, seals, backing plates apart many times.

Posted

Hi Formulabruce,

Thank you for your reply.

I can see what you're describing - the intermediate cable only attaches to a single rear parking brake cable? How does the other parking brake get activated?

 

The picture below is what would make sense to me (I believe this is the equalizer, and not included in the cable I bought because it said this was for trucks without RPO code HVY).

 

If it's just the single connection, then I think I'm good - I then just need to figure out how to get some of the front cable to spool out from the parking brake pedal mechanism...

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

 

original.jpg

Posted

It has that, of sorts, under the Drivers door, on the frame. The main cable has a sort of hood on it with a slice, where the other cable joins it. That "hood" is then pulled by the front cable.  I will post a pic tomorrow

Posted

When I did it on my '04 Sierra 3500, it amounted to "pull hard" on the cable coming from the cab.  I used vise grips around the cable (not clamping it, as I didn't want to damage the coating), to be able to pull, and then a friend could slide the cable from the rear brakes (the single cable) into the clip used to join them.

Posted

Hey guys,

Thank you for all your helpful comments!

 

"The main cable has a sort of hood on it with a slice, where the other cable joins it. That "hood" is then pulled by the front cable.  I will post a pic tomorrow"

Formulabruce - your description sounds just like what I'm seeing - your pic will be very helpful!

 

Thanks again!

Posted (edited)

This is what the equalizer looks like on 2500/3500 from 1999-2007:

 

Parking Brake Cable Equalizer ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15941031 for  sale online | eBay

 

 

The right rear cable goes through the large hole and connects to the intermediate cable.  The left rear cable hooks into the smaller hole with that groove at the bottom of the equalizer.  

 

The cable adjustment is done as part of the pedal assembly and the adjustment of the rear park brake shoes adjusts the rear cable actuation.

 

 
Quote

 

Parking Brake Cable Adjuster Disabling (w/Rear Disc)

Before any components of the parking brake system are serviced, the following procedure must be followed. Two technicians are required to perform this procedure, one inside the vehicle and one outside the vehicle.

  1.  
  2. Raise and support the vehicle. 
  3. Hold the pedal in the FULL upward position.
  4. Pull rearward on the front park brake cable until the pedal drum (2) reaches its full reset position.
  5. Insert a scribe or the shaft of a thin screwdriver (1) on an upward angle through the hole in the front of the pedal assembly, past the retracted pedal drum, and into the hole in the back of the pedal assembly (3).
  6. Slowly release the cable.
  7. Remove the component that requires service.
Parking Brake Cable Adjuster Enabling (w/Rear Disc)

If the park brake automatic adjuster has been disabled, the following two person procedure must be performed.

  1. Hold the park brake pedal in the FULL upward position.
  2. Pull rearward on the front park brake cable until the tension is released from the scribe or nail (1) installed through the holes in the pedal assembly.
  3. Remove the scribe or screwdriver (1).
  4. Slowly release the park brake cable until it returns to its original position.
  5. Release the park brake pedal.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Apply and release the park brake pedal to ensure that there is no binding or sticking.

 

Parking Brake Adjustment (w/Rear Disc)
Park Brake Shoe Adjustment

Tools Required

J 21177-A Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge

 

Caution: Refer to Brake Dust Caution.

Important: The park brake shoes must be adjusted before the park brake pedal is adjusted.

 
  1.  
  2. Set the J 21177-A so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.
  3. Position the J 21177-A over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.
  4. Turn the adjuster nut until the lining just contacts the J 21177-A.
  5. Repeat steps 1–3 for the opposite side.
  6. The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).
Park Brake Pedal Adjustment

Important: Before you adjust the park brake, verify that the park brake shoes are adjusted to provide a clearance of 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).

  1. Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has be removed.
  2. Fully apply and release the park brake pedal 3 times, with the rotor in place.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by newdude
Posted

newdude,

 

Thank you - that's the piece I was talking about that I didn't understand.

And thank you for the procedure!

 

I'm going to tackle it this weekend.

 

Thank you to all of you who replied - this is a great site and I'm glad I joined!

Posted

Hi All,

 

It worked (I think)!

I was able to get the intermediate cable attached to the right rear cable. I just have not been able to get the parking brake pedal to return to the fully up position when releasing it yet. But I still need to check for the parking brake shoe clearance, which should be fun with all the rust... Gotta love upstate NY snow!

 

Thank you again for all who replied to my questions. I hope to return the favor!

Posted

Hi All,

 

It worked (I think)!

I was able to get the intermediate cable attached to the right rear cable. I just have not been able to get the parking brake pedal to return to the fully up position when releasing it yet. But I still need to check for the parking brake shoe clearance, which should be fun with all the rust... Gotta love upstate NY snow!

 

Thank you again for all who replied to my questions. I hope to return the favor!

  • 4 years later...
Posted (edited)

Old thread but still helpful. My issue on my '02 SD is that the 2 cables coming from the rear into the intermediate cable are of different lengths, the top one is almost an inch and half shorter that the lower one. I put a new intermediate cable in, tightened up the nut and stepped on the pedal several times, it's still the same.  What would cause that one cable to be that much shorter or longer? 

Edited by Quadrasteer
add info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,033 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...