Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got the bar today but all the installs I had seen already had things that aren't included.

 

I have the bar itself and the module for rear camera.  Presume this is so it doesn't turn off the camera/set it to trailer mode?

 

It's 32 degrees and freezing rain so reallllly don't want to go out there and look around underneath.  I'd like to disconnect the plug BEHIND the bumper and piggyback off of it to get a 4 pin connection for the lightbar.  I would "think" I can run the reverse wire to a pin on there since the 7 pin has a pin for that.

 

Is the plug behind the bumper just a standard 7 pin or some proprietary GM connection?  Anyone have something that can be found on Amazon so I don't need to wait another week for OPT7 to ship?

Posted
3 hours ago, J2Jones said:

 

I would suggest using the item below.  It's not cheap but it's fool-proof and remains all functionality.  With my AT4, the OPT7/Curt Trailer harness disabled the rear park sensors.

 

https://www.putco.com/529005

 

Bit pricey and maybe they only have one image for everything but that doesn't appear to be what I/we have (ie USCAR 7 way socket) 

 

Going to give Kodiak's a shot

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Rob Mugs said:

Thanks man.. looks perfect.

Cool! Pretty cheap too

I've got one sitting around for an in-progress project. I haven't test fit it yet but should do the job, build quality looks good, heavy gauge wire.

I don't know if the Silverado's manual is exactly the same as the Sierra's, but on the Sierra upfitter manual the pinout for the trailer connector is on page 7-473.

reverse wire is pin A., which is the one in the center of the connector.

 

Posted

 

21 minutes ago, kodiakdenali said:

 

reverse wire is pin A., which is the one in the center of the connector.

 

Yep!  Same for the Silverado.  I'll just tie into it at that point instead of running into the light itself.  Just to keep all the connections at a single spot.  

Posted
1 minute ago, Rob Mugs said:

 

Yep!  Same for the Silverado.  I'll just tie into it at that point instead of running into the light itself.  Just to keep all the connections at a single spot.  

If you get to it before I do, let me know how it goes...and if your mod puts the truck into trailer mode. I wouldn't  mind the side view on the screen so much, but it apparently also deactivates the rear parking sensors and cross traffic which I wouldn't' like.

I actually have both this part and the putco harness. I'd rather attach to the trailer provisions because if I blew a fuse at least it wouldn't knock out my truck's main lighting. but I was prepared to use the curt harness just to get access to the high current 12V (plug and play) and activate relays with signals from the putco harness as needed.

Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, kodiakdenali said:

If you get to it before I do, let me know how it goes...and if your mod puts the truck into trailer mode. I wouldn't  mind the side view on the screen so much, but it apparently also deactivates the rear parking sensors and cross traffic which I wouldn't' like.

I actually have both this part and the putco harness. I'd rather attach to the trailer provisions because if I blew a fuse at least it wouldn't knock out my truck's main lighting. but I was prepared to use the curt harness just to get access to the high current 12V (plug and play) and activate relays with signals from the putco harness as needed.

I'll hook it up without the module first but I have this on hand.  It's supposed to negate any issues with sensors and camera
https://www.opt-7.com/tow-package-module-for-redline-led-tailgate-bars/

 

Edit: I might pull it apart tonight, just to see what's inside.  :) 

 

Edited by Rob Mugs
Posted
Just now, Rob Mugs said:

I'll hook it up without the module first but I have this on hand.  It's supposed to negate any issues with sensors and camera
https://www.opt-7.com/tow-package-module-for-redline-led-tailgate-bars/

 

ah, makes sense. its probably a relay pack so the trailer circuitry sees only a draw from the relays and not power for lights, pretty much an off the shelf product to do exactly what I was planning.

Posted

If it works well, for the price... might not even be worth a DIY.  Only briefly looked at it, but seemed like a solid build.

Posted
1 minute ago, Rob Mugs said:

If it works well, for the price... might not even be worth a DIY.  Only briefly looked at it, but seemed like a solid build.

exactly what I was just thinking...I was going to build one, I probably couldn't build one for much less than that.

 

you'll need a good source of 12V, you can get that from the curt harness too that's what I'm planning to do.

Posted
45 minutes ago, kodiakdenali said:

I don't think the OPT7 product has the reverse lights in it though, that's usually not included in the standard 4 pin connector.

It doesn't, it has an extra wire that is meant to be dragged over to the reverse light and scotch locked.  My weird OCD won't let me do that though and I'll pigtail off pin 7 so it's all in one spot.

Posted (edited)

Not installing yet but some things I've noted so far while testing for tomorrow's install:

 

On the battery: Connecting green or yellow to + and white to negative, it sometimes triggers the brake lights, sometimes it triggers the turn signal.  I'm hoping this is just because I am supplying more than a 1/2 second of voltage like the signal would

 

Going back to the 4 pin and testing without the module, it triggers the trailer mode once you turn on the lights and strangely, it turns OFF the trailer mode the second a turn signal is used.  (Almost wondering if something is shorted internally here as that doesn't seem right regardless of the relay module)

 

If you need the module as most people will have trailering, sensors, or camera, you will need to run a constant hot.  There are places on the passenger side fuse panel but I'm going to be digging for something closer by.  There's a pin on the 7 pin labeled Aux 12V+ Charging.  Haven't checked this yet but hoping it is a constant

 

 

 

 

Edited by Rob Mugs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 566 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...