Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

OTR, this is a def option for me.  I am not driving as much as I once was pre-COVID so keeping it and doing a complete tune up/upgrade may been smart.  I used to drive 5-6000 a month but now I am at 25-3000. 

 

This whole process started because I started adding up the tune-up/maintenance/repair costs and I thought that would be a great down payment on something newer with less miles, and a moonroof with 22's.  LOL 

 

To your point about values, Im seeing 100,000+ miles for sale at 31,000!   8-/  

Posted

This is such a no brainer..

 

Why on gods earth would you buy first year production on anything these days.

 

Always buy the last year in a production cycle. Then the bugs are worked out.. and NOT by you! If there is a reoccurring problem there will likely already be a solution you don’t need to wait long for.

 

The 2018 is the last year in that production cycle.. Then 2019 is totally new everything. Exactly why I bought a 2018!

 

Get the 2018 for smokin deal especially if it still has warranty. Hopefully it has the “whoa is me” chevy shake so you can get an even better deal.

 

Then go get the garbage trans fluid changed for $200 and away you go.

 

They are ALL going to have a handful of problems. So get the one that already has the solutions too..

  • Like 1
Posted
Yes, I work very hard for the money, but I have to be cognizant of cost.  The 19+ are $10-15,000 more and I have a daughter  getting married next year (surprise) plus 3 other daughters. LOL  I may just hang on to what I have for the time being. 
My 15 has the GM clunk in the shift at times but I have gotten used to it I guess. I also have an for intune 2 and have dialed in the shift fairly well.  
 
To the Chevy shake and other issues, it always concerns me buying an older low mileage vehicle like what I am looking at.  Did they just not drive much and trade every 3-4 years or was it a buyback or was there something wrong with it and they just got rid of it...I would asume they would have to note its a buyback but that doesn't mean they do.
 
The used 19's are not are not that far off from a new 2021s. Used 19's are $55-60,000.  New 21's are $60-68,000.  Used 18's are $43-47,000  and not many at 43. Most are $45-47.  These are all Denali's. 
 
 

Also my down shift clunk in 2011 went away after installing Range AFM disable module. It was clunking on decel. I think ECU gets confused when going to 4 cycl mode and decelerating and down shifting. Once it was locked in v8 mode it is SO much better. I am at 180k miles on my 2011 5.3 6 speed.

Wife love love loves her 18’ Denali. Heated steering wheel is a chick magnet for sure. She would sell me to keep it.
Posted

Not sure asking here has had any benefit as there are opposing views in both directions.  LOL what else could I excect by asking a generic question on an internet forum!  

 

I do appreciate the feed back.  Looking at a couple more trucks this weekend so i may be back with more questions....

Posted
On 4/3/2021 at 1:38 PM, lmentzel said:

This is such a no brainer..

 

Why on gods earth would you buy first year production on anything these days.

 

Always buy the last year in a production cycle. Then the bugs are worked out.. and NOT by you! If there is a reoccurring problem there will likely already be a solution you don’t need to wait long for.

 

The 2018 is the last year in that production cycle.. Then 2019 is totally new everything. Exactly why I bought a 2018!

 

Get the 2018 for smokin deal especially if it still has warranty. Hopefully it has the “whoa is me” chevy shake so you can get an even better deal.

 

Then go get the garbage trans fluid changed for $200 and away you go.

 

They are ALL going to have a handful of problems. So get the one that already has the solutions too..

You can have your 2018!  I had one and it’s 8 speed with 6.2L combo was complete garbage. I also had a 2016 with the wonderful Chevy Shake. Not fun to deal with. Thank goodness it was bought back by GM. 
 

My 2019 High Country with 10 speed and 6.2L is better in every way. And I’ve had about zero issues with mine other than the rear window leak which was fixed with 200 miles on it and I now have 16k and not a drop leaks 🤞.  It’s also made on June of 2019, so it is very close to a 2020. A lot of the bugs I believe were worked out of it, compared to the trucks made in late 2018 and early 2019. 

Posted (edited)
On 4/3/2021 at 1:49 PM, 15 hi miler said:

OTR, this is a def option for me.  I am not driving as much as I once was pre-COVID so keeping it and doing a complete tune up/upgrade may been smart.  I used to drive 5-6000 a month but now I am at 25-3000. 

 

This whole process started because I started adding up the tune-up/maintenance/repair costs and I thought that would be a great down payment on something newer with less miles, and a moonroof with 22's.  LOL 

 

To your point about values, Im seeing 100,000+ miles for sale at 31,000!   8-/  

3000/month is still a LOT of miles per year -- compared to average / typical users.

 

I guess I'm biased because I'm happy with mine, but that seems like a perfect application for the 3.0L/10 speed. 

 

Edited by redwngr
Posted

I've decided to make the upgrade as well.  I have an '18 SLT Premium Plus with the 6.2L.  It was as close to a Denali Ultimate that you could get without getting one - I then did then the Denali cluster (which in the '19+ is the AT4 and Denali cluster) and wheels to get it that much closer.  

 

The '19+ trucks have a lot more toys available than the '14 - '18 trucks  For me, I'm fine with the cab room, ride, power, etc. on my '18 - heck, if it wasn't for the stupid money being offered on newer, low mileage vehicles like mine, I'd just keep it.  But the newer ones are nicer for sure.

 

No complaints about the 8-speed, though.  I had the shudder issues and the dealer flushed it with the new fluid that totally resolved the issue.  After looking at the '21 Denali and AT4, I like the AT4 better.  I think it looks better and I won't complain that is is cheaper.  Only difference is all the chrome and fake wood I don't like, Mag Ride I have very mixed feelings about, and power running boards I could always add later (and likely would).

One downside is the tonneau covers for the '19+ are differnet, so my $1000 Undercover Ultra Flex won't transfer over.  Unless I get more for trade, I'm pulling that and selling it but will lose my butt on it I'm sure.  Catch can is different between the 6.2 motors, so that will be sold as well.  I expected to keep her for several more years - who would have thought I would be getting offers for more than I paid for it new 2.5 years later?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...