Jump to content

2018 vs 2019 Sierra Denali

2015 High Miler
 Share

Recommended Posts

2015 High Miler Enthusiast

2015 High Miler

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OTR, this is a def option for me.  I am not driving as much as I once was pre-COVID so keeping it and doing a complete tune up/upgrade may been smart.  I used to drive 5-6000 a month but now I am at 25-3000. 

 

This whole process started because I started adding up the tune-up/maintenance/repair costs and I thought that would be a great down payment on something newer with less miles, and a moonroof with 22's.  LOL 

 

To your point about values, Im seeing 100,000+ miles for sale at 31,000!   8-/  

lmentzel Enthusiast

lmentzel

Posted
Posted

This is such a no brainer..

 

Why on gods earth would you buy first year production on anything these days.

 

Always buy the last year in a production cycle. Then the bugs are worked out.. and NOT by you! If there is a reoccurring problem there will likely already be a solution you don’t need to wait long for.

 

The 2018 is the last year in that production cycle.. Then 2019 is totally new everything. Exactly why I bought a 2018!

 

Get the 2018 for smokin deal especially if it still has warranty. Hopefully it has the “whoa is me” chevy shake so you can get an even better deal.

 

Then go get the garbage trans fluid changed for $200 and away you go.

 

They are ALL going to have a handful of problems. So get the one that already has the solutions too..

  • Like 1
lmentzel Enthusiast

lmentzel

Posted
Posted
Yes, I work very hard for the money, but I have to be cognizant of cost.  The 19+ are $10-15,000 more and I have a daughter  getting married next year (surprise) plus 3 other daughters. LOL  I may just hang on to what I have for the time being. 
My 15 has the GM clunk in the shift at times but I have gotten used to it I guess. I also have an for intune 2 and have dialed in the shift fairly well.  
 
To the Chevy shake and other issues, it always concerns me buying an older low mileage vehicle like what I am looking at.  Did they just not drive much and trade every 3-4 years or was it a buyback or was there something wrong with it and they just got rid of it...I would asume they would have to note its a buyback but that doesn't mean they do.
 
The used 19's are not are not that far off from a new 2021s. Used 19's are $55-60,000.  New 21's are $60-68,000.  Used 18's are $43-47,000  and not many at 43. Most are $45-47.  These are all Denali's. 
 
 

Also my down shift clunk in 2011 went away after installing Range AFM disable module. It was clunking on decel. I think ECU gets confused when going to 4 cycl mode and decelerating and down shifting. Once it was locked in v8 mode it is SO much better. I am at 180k miles on my 2011 5.3 6 speed.

Wife love love loves her 18’ Denali. Heated steering wheel is a chick magnet for sure. She would sell me to keep it.
2015 High Miler Enthusiast

2015 High Miler

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not sure asking here has had any benefit as there are opposing views in both directions.  LOL what else could I excect by asking a generic question on an internet forum!  

 

I do appreciate the feed back.  Looking at a couple more trucks this weekend so i may be back with more questions....

TNTSierra Senior Enthusiast

TNTSierra

Posted
Posted
On 4/3/2021 at 1:38 PM, lmentzel said:

This is such a no brainer..

 

Why on gods earth would you buy first year production on anything these days.

 

Always buy the last year in a production cycle. Then the bugs are worked out.. and NOT by you! If there is a reoccurring problem there will likely already be a solution you don’t need to wait long for.

 

The 2018 is the last year in that production cycle.. Then 2019 is totally new everything. Exactly why I bought a 2018!

 

Get the 2018 for smokin deal especially if it still has warranty. Hopefully it has the “whoa is me” chevy shake so you can get an even better deal.

 

Then go get the garbage trans fluid changed for $200 and away you go.

 

They are ALL going to have a handful of problems. So get the one that already has the solutions too..

You can have your 2018!  I had one and it’s 8 speed with 6.2L combo was complete garbage. I also had a 2016 with the wonderful Chevy Shake. Not fun to deal with. Thank goodness it was bought back by GM. 
 

My 2019 High Country with 10 speed and 6.2L is better in every way. And I’ve had about zero issues with mine other than the rear window leak which was fixed with 200 miles on it and I now have 16k and not a drop leaks 🤞.  It’s also made on June of 2019, so it is very close to a 2020. A lot of the bugs I believe were worked out of it, compared to the trucks made in late 2018 and early 2019. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 4/3/2021 at 1:49 PM, 15 hi miler said:

OTR, this is a def option for me.  I am not driving as much as I once was pre-COVID so keeping it and doing a complete tune up/upgrade may been smart.  I used to drive 5-6000 a month but now I am at 25-3000. 

 

This whole process started because I started adding up the tune-up/maintenance/repair costs and I thought that would be a great down payment on something newer with less miles, and a moonroof with 22's.  LOL 

 

To your point about values, Im seeing 100,000+ miles for sale at 31,000!   8-/  

3000/month is still a LOT of miles per year -- compared to average / typical users.

 

I guess I'm biased because I'm happy with mine, but that seems like a perfect application for the 3.0L/10 speed. 

 

Edited by redwngr
Nitrousbird Enthusiast

Nitrousbird

Posted
Posted

I've decided to make the upgrade as well.  I have an '18 SLT Premium Plus with the 6.2L.  It was as close to a Denali Ultimate that you could get without getting one - I then did then the Denali cluster (which in the '19+ is the AT4 and Denali cluster) and wheels to get it that much closer.  

 

The '19+ trucks have a lot more toys available than the '14 - '18 trucks  For me, I'm fine with the cab room, ride, power, etc. on my '18 - heck, if it wasn't for the stupid money being offered on newer, low mileage vehicles like mine, I'd just keep it.  But the newer ones are nicer for sure.

 

No complaints about the 8-speed, though.  I had the shudder issues and the dealer flushed it with the new fluid that totally resolved the issue.  After looking at the '21 Denali and AT4, I like the AT4 better.  I think it looks better and I won't complain that is is cheaper.  Only difference is all the chrome and fake wood I don't like, Mag Ride I have very mixed feelings about, and power running boards I could always add later (and likely would).

One downside is the tonneau covers for the '19+ are differnet, so my $1000 Undercover Ultra Flex won't transfer over.  Unless I get more for trade, I'm pulling that and selling it but will lose my butt on it I'm sure.  Catch can is different between the 6.2 motors, so that will be sold as well.  I expected to keep her for several more years - who would have thought I would be getting offers for more than I paid for it new 2.5 years later?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • pyoung62
      2026 DENALI 6.2L

      By pyoung62 · Posted

      I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • ShowMeShooter1332
      Can you add a 360° Cameras hard button to a 2021 Sierra?

      By ShowMeShooter1332 · Posted

      I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Grumpy Bear
      Winter Returned

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Chuck FB
      Oil Consumption

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • CPhelps
      4 Wheel Drive System

      By CPhelps · Posted

      Cool to see another Vermonter!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...