Jump to content

New guy and leaking issues

wvmountaineers
 Share

Recommended Posts

wvmountaineers Enthusiast

wvmountaineers

Posted
Posted

First off, let me say that I have been lurking here since I bought a 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 last week. What a wealth of knowledge here. I sold my 03 Silverado, and bought the GMC. Loved my 03. Running like a champ after owning her for 18 years. Hope I get similar life out of the GMC.

 

Today I put a Truxedo Lo Pro tonneau cover on the truck. No problems putting it on. I decided to test it for leaks so I put the hose on shower and simulated some rain. Pretty good, except for small leaks at the corners near the cab. Has anyone had this, and what was the best way to fix it? I think if I seal the corners, it will be pretty dry.

 

After reading all of the posts on here regarding leaky rear windows, I figured” what the heck” and threw some water on the cab. Of course I had a leak from the drivers side corner of the rear window. It’s a slider, for anyone wanting to know.

 

My question regarding the infamous leaky window, is, what is the fix from the dealer? A gob of silicone, window replacement, or just luck of the draw with the dealer? How have the fixes been holding up? Slightly frustrated, but not really surprising after reading about all of the leaks on here.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

bwoodsmn Enthusiast

bwoodsmn

Posted
Posted
46 minutes ago, wvmountaineers said:

 

First off, let me say that I have been lurking here since I bought a 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 last week. What a wealth of knowledge here. I sold my 03 Silverado, and bought the GMC. Loved my 03. Running like a champ after owning her for 18 years. Hope I get similar life out of the GMC.

 

Today I put a Truxedo Lo Pro tonneau cover on the truck. No problems putting it on. I decided to test it for leaks so I put the hose on shower and simulated some rain. Pretty good, except for small leaks at the corners near the cab. Has anyone had this, and what was the best way to fix it? I think if I seal the corners, it will be pretty dry.

 

After reading all of the posts on here regarding leaky rear windows, I figured” what the heck” and threw some water on the cab. Of course I had a leak from the drivers side corner of the rear window. It’s a slider, for anyone wanting to know.

 

My question regarding the infamous leaky window, is, what is the fix from the dealer? A gob of silicone, window replacement, or just luck of the draw with the dealer? How have the fixes been holding up? Slightly frustrated, but not really surprising after reading about all of the leaks on here.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

First of all, welcome to the Forum, and congrats on the new truck! 

Rather than starting yet another thread, please go to the existing, exhaustive thread on the topic - your answers are there :)

 

wvmountaineers Enthusiast

wvmountaineers

Posted
  • Author
Posted
First of all, welcome to the Forum, and congrats on the new truck! 
Rather than starting yet another thread, please go to the existing, exhaustive thread on the topic - your answers are there [emoji4]
 

Thanks for the suggestion. Being the new guy, I generally try to tread gently, but I don’t see anything in that thread regarding tonneau covers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
bwoodsmn Enthusiast

bwoodsmn

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, wvmountaineers said:


Thanks for the suggestion. Being the new guy, I generally try to tread gently, but I don’t see anything in that thread regarding tonneau covers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm sorry, I read your question was about the leaking back window. My bad.

 

About the tonneau cover, if you are leaking at the front cab corners, double check your front gasket seal at the leading edge of the box.  Sometimes the seal is not all the way across, or, since your truck is a 2019, look at the front seal and see if its shrunk, or lost its pliability so that water can get it, around the gasket edges

ericarenee Enthusiast

ericarenee

Posted
Posted

On my  2020  different but similar cover. I had to put some foam rubber strips into the corners as they cover does not seem to lay totally flat. You could see light.. I had the stuff. its just  3m tape on one side and like  1/2 inch thick. most box store in there door seals and threshold area will have a similar product that will work.. 

 

 

Good Luck

wvmountaineers Enthusiast

wvmountaineers

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On my  2020  different but similar cover. I had to put some foam rubber strips into the corners as they cover does not seem to lay totally flat. You could see light.. I had the stuff. its just  3m tape on one side and like  1/2 inch thick. most box store in there door seals and threshold area will have a similar product that will work.. 
 
 
Good Luck

That’s exactly the situation I have. I will try that. Did you apply the sticky side towards the bed, or use the sticky side on the underside of the liner?

This is the first time I’ve had a tonneau cover. I was worried about adding a bunch of extra foam then if I need to remove the cover to haul something large, having to re-do everything. That may be the case, but if there’s a way around it, I was hoping to learn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bwoodsmn Enthusiast

bwoodsmn

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, wvmountaineers said:


That’s exactly the situation I have. I will try that. Did you apply the sticky side towards the bed, or use the sticky side on the underside of the liner?

 

Sticky side towards the bed - the cover will flex against the strips, so you want that side to be the pressure seal.

  • Like 1
Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Welcome.  I have to say that out of all the trucks I have owned, my 99 Silverado and 05 Sierra were my favorites.  That GMT-800 generation were good trucks.  Not perfect, but comfortable and reliable. 

  • 1 year later...
todd308 Enthusiast

todd308

Posted
Posted (edited)

Old post, but thought it might help others with the Lo Pro cover.  I've had one of these for awhile, and it leaks quite a bit at the front corners.  I'm pretty meticulous so I was surprised it leaked as much as it did, when I installed it I used extra foam pieces etc. even did some silicone work where I could still see light through.   Well today I was bored so I ran water over it, only took a few seconds to start leaking, and crawled under there.   It was immediately obvious where it was leaking from the worst, and it's not anywhere that seals are.   It's leaking mostly from the junction of the side rail with the plastic endcaps at the front and back of the side rails.  

 

Pic to help visualize, the leaking is occuring at the junction between part 26 and 15, the same is true at the rear of the side rail, but it's much less because the bed sits higher so all the water runs along the bed rails to the front corners.  It doesn't look like they put any sealant on these at all. 

 

I'm going to try to seal this area up as much as possible. Ideally the side rails would be removed, the end caps removed, and sealed, but I'm hoping I can seal it from the top and underside, without removing the rails entirely.  It's hard to seal it from the topside because it would interfere with the velcro slot. 

 

I do think it's interesting that you won't find anything on their website, descriptions, FAQ etc. that talks about how waterproof the covers are or leaking etc. but it's very clearly written in the user manual under troubleshooting that the covers are not designed to be water tight. 

 

At the end of the day it's probably the nature of these low profile covers, because they don't extend over the bed rails at all, and they don't stick up far enough to ensure rain runs off the bedrails it runs along the seam of the cover with the bedrail and can pool there.

 

 

Screen Shot 2022-07-04 at 4.38.25 PM.png

Edited by todd308

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,980
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Fishboat
    Newest Member
    Fishboat
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 481 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...