Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The search function doesn't turn up much for re-gearing a T1... Are there options yet for us? It like to bump up from the 3.23 my 3.0 has before I get bigger tires.

 

From what I understand, the front is welded, and thus the whole assembly needs to be swapped, had anyone done this? Where the cheapest place I can get the parts? What about lockers, am I SOL for the front end?

Posted

The front end probably doesn't have a locker available for it.  Wouldn't be very street friendly either.

 

The 9.5" 12 bolt rear is a variant of the old GM 9.5" 14 bolt Semi Floater so it can be regeared with earlier generation parts and use their lockers.  This has been done before.

Posted
8 hours ago, AJMBLAZER said:

The front end probably doesn't have a locker available for it.  Wouldn't be very street friendly either.

 

The 9.5" 12 bolt rear is a variant of the old GM 9.5" 14 bolt Semi Floater so it can be regeared with earlier generation parts and use their lockers.  This has been done before.

Copy that. I guess to clarify; I'm trying to figure out if there are any vendors selling re gear Kits for the front end. So far it looks like I'll need to buy a whole new front diff assembly to do a re gear.

Posted

The more gears the transmission has the less the rear end gears matter. Those 10 speeds don't really need gears if you stepping up to 33's or larger. Plenty of guys are running 35's no problem.

 

How will you tune it for the gears?

 

 

It's not like the old days where we had 4 speed auto's and putting 35's on a 3.42 gear truck turned it into a 3.08 geared truck that couldn't even get out of it's own way.

Posted

I’d bet you could swap axles with a 3.42 geared truck to get a bit lower. 
 

Ditto on the new transmissions. Ever since the 6 speed they’re super low geared and pull hard, even with higher axle ratios than traditionally. 
 

At any rate the front diff can for sure be taken apart and serviced. So at the very least right now there will be GM axle sets available. 3.23, 3.42, and…3.73?  What’s the gear ratio on the 3.0L with the towing package?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Mine has the 3.23 in it. I mainly want to get back some of the lost mpgs from the tire upsize. When I regeared my tundra for 35s I went from 13 to 16 mpg. Some folks don't care about mpg but I bought this thing in September and have 30k on it already so it kinda adds up fo me.

Posted
13 hours ago, Juggsauce said:

Mine has the 3.23 in it. I mainly want to get back some of the lost mpgs from the tire upsize. When I regeared my tundra for 35s I went from 13 to 16 mpg. Some folks don't care about mpg but I bought this thing in September and have 30k on it already so it kinda adds up fo me.

If I were you I wouldn't regear, think of it this way the money you put out for a regear lets say $2000.00 and you pick up 2mpg it will take you years to recoop that money put out for gears to pick up 2-3 mpg. How did you get your mpg with the bigger tires? If you used the odometer and you have bigger tires your mpg calculation will be off because your recording less miles driven cause our speedometer is off.          

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree.   However, the owner's manual, suggests that a drop over full is just as bad as a drop under. (Read black and white letters only, insert no common sense.)
    • That P0700 and loss of power suggests something significant is amiss to me.   More/other codes may suggest otherwise; I would investigate those prior to spending the money to change fluid on a transmission with a bad torque converter.    The relatively sudden escalation of symptoms to me suggests that something began failing (initial shuddering experienced) and rapidly deteriorated (slipping/loss of power). Fluid condition alone wouldn't cause the sudden escalation of problems - though it might have been the cause of the deterioration up to the point of failure.
    • Stabilitrack operation is in a sense a separate/independent operation from the operation of 'traction control'. Stabilitrack is used to keep the vehicle traveling in the DIRECTION intended, it can brake independent wheels and or adjust throttle to influence the direction the vehicle is moving.   This can be illustrated by a 'fish-tailing' example. At high speeds, if the stabilitrack detects excessive yaw (the vehicle spinning like a top, it has a sensor for this), based on inputs from steering angle it determines that the vehicle is spinning out of control, and begins working to control that unintended spin. By reducing throttle input or braking specific wheels to control or prevent the spin.   The traction control works similarly using the ABS system to slow spinning wheels and thus transfer power to 'other' wheels. The goal being to achieve wheel speeds that are all in agreement with each other, the truck then assumes that since all the wheels speeds are the same no spinning is occurring. For example, launching up a wet boat ramp, there is no excessive yaw present, traction control alone can manage the wheel spin by braking spinning wheels and cutting throttle.   Stabilitrack and traction control from a hardware and software standpoint are basically one in the same, I don't remember specifically in 2004, but you couldn't get a truck with one and not the other. The switch on the dash, could turn off the traction control, but not necessarily the stabilitrack.    A confusing comment about stabilitrack vs. traction control, the same components serve both operations, but marketing could advertise them as two separate features.    The AWD system is another separate system entirely, in addition to the other two, it uses the same wheel speed inputs but can also vary the transfer case clutch application to direct some power to the front axle, working in conjunction with the traction control to bring wheel speeds together.   The power split will never be greater than 50:50, the same as 4-high. It will never direct MORE power to the front axle than the rear.
    • Not based on the new photos I'm seeing.  Car and Driver posted additional photos that shows an auto stop start button left of the steering wheel.      
    • Car and Driver is reporting wireless CarPlay WILL remain, and they posted several additional photos, including a left knee shot, but the only hard buttons there are e-brake, auto start stop, tailgate and cargo light.  Also definitely looks like High Country and ZR2 get micro fiber on the center of the console lid and the ZR2 possibly also on the seats.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...