Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Picked up my 2020 AT4 today and love it! One thing that the CarMax pics couldn’t highlight was the super cool stickers on the hood ridges (one side says “5.3 L Performance” and the other side lost the L, and just says “”5.3 Performance”. 
 

I want to remove these poor choices, and hopefully all adhesive residue. Is GooGone the best? Any particular Bug N Tar brand? Am I destined to be out there with a razor for a while?

 

Thanks all!

Joe

4C75B816-371E-46E8-BFDB-F92E82543B13.jpeg

Posted

They can't be that "super cool" if you want them off.  No razor.  A little heat for the decal removal or leave it in the sun for a while and WD 40 with a microfiber cloth for the residue.  Works like a charm.  Body shops have an air rotary tool with a wheel glue eraser that works but can burn the clear coat if not careful or sometimes may require buffing.

Posted
14 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

They can't be that "super cool" if you want them off.  No razor.  A little heat for the decal removal or leave it in the sun for a while and WD 40 with a microfiber cloth for the residue.  Works like a charm.  Body shops have an air rotary tool with a wheel glue eraser that works but can burn the clear coat if not careful or sometimes may require buffing.

Sorry, sarcasm doesn't translate well in text - they're not super cool 🙂

 

Thanks for the pointers, I will get cracking on that!

Posted

Heat gun (not too close or for too long) and peel. Since one piece already fell off and they aren’t old, they should come off really easy and most likely residue free. Main thing is minimizing any sort of scrubbing you have to do on the paint. Black is not forgiving.

  • Like 1
Posted
23 minutes ago, Jchaffin20 said:

Sorry, sarcasm doesn't translate well in text - they're not super cool 🙂

 

Thanks for the pointers, I will get cracking on that!

I hear ya bud 🤣.  Even if most of the residue comes off with the decal there will probably be a glue outline.  WD40 (original) works perfect and won't damage the clear.

Posted
10 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

I hear ya bud 🤣.  Even if most of the residue comes off with the decal there will probably be a glue outline.  WD40 (original) works perfect and won't damage the clear.

Gosh I hope I can get this 1-year-old hood back to normal. The previous owner also installed an awful AVS Hood Protector that has a giant crack in it. I'd like to pull that off as well, but I know it's got a bunch of residue-heavy adhesive strips on it that will likely leave a mark also 😞 

Posted

3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. Available at Ace Hardware and Home Depot. Very mild but stays "wet" and soaks into adhesive residue. Make sure the truck is cool and out of the sun no matter what you use then wash thoroughly and wax when you are done.

 

I've seen Goo-Gone eat plastic and ruin painted surfaces. If I use it at all it's on bare metal or glass and even then I prefer the 3M Adhesive Remover. 

 

The 3M is safe on Gel-Coat and plexiglass too.

3M Adhesive Cleaner.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
55 minutes ago, Enough said:

3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. Available at Ace Hardware and Home Depot. Very mild but stays "wet" and soaks into adhesive residue. Make sure the truck is cool and out of the sun no matter what you use then wash thoroughly and wax when you are done.

 

I've seen Goo-Gone eat plastic and ruin painted surfaces. If I use it at all it's on bare metal or glass and even then I prefer the 3M Adhesive Remover. 

 

The 3M is safe on Gel-Coat and plexiglass too.

3M Adhesive Cleaner.jpg

I've used this for 30 years on many, many things, can't live without it.  Once you you use the heat and peel method, there will likely be an "outline" of the letter. The 3M adhesive remover will cut that right off. 

Our family has nick named it The Secret Sauce!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,634 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...