Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Is there anyone who could point me in the right direction on what steps to take first? A/C works fine. Cruise control works fine if A/C is off. If A/C is already on, cruise power lights up but it never engages and displays on dash. If cruise is already on and engaged, it turns off as soon as I turn the A/C on. Any advice on things I can start checking? Thanks in advance. 

Posted

I believe those 2 systems get power from 2 different points (not the same fuse). If that's the case, grounds are the issue. Problem is, the BCM supplies the ground to both.

 

What I would do is check all the basics. Start with the battery terminals, cables, and their ends. Then look over fuses and wiring. Look under the hood, around the underhood fuse box, interior fuse box, and underneath vehicle for any rubbed / chaffed / broken or corroded wiring, but start with the steering column area. If you run out of options, check the BCM power and ground - use a halogen headlight to make sure both the power and ground can handle the load. I've seen these show 12v and good ground, but wasn't even able to carry the current of an old 194 marker bulb.

Posted

Side note - I just disconnected battery for 30 minutes hoping it would reset something.  Connected and started vehicle.  After 1 minute of running the negative battery terminal is hot enough to cook on.  Major resistance somewhere? 

Posted

Yeah, heat = resistance. The more heat, the higher / worse the resistance is. Could try polishing up the ends of the cable with sandpaper or wire brush, or small wire wheel in a Dremel on low speed. If the heat is in the center of the cable, away from the ends, then a new cable is in order.

Posted

Thanks Jsdirt.  I had an aftermarket repair negative terminal that looked rusty.  I replaced it this morning and ran the truck for 10 minutes and it never got hot.  Cruise control actually worked too.  Thank you for the quick reply!  👍 I'll keep a close eye on it.  

  • Like 1
Posted

You're welcome - glad it worked out!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have A 2020 1500 5.3 8 speed. LTZ. Transmission problems since 60,000 miles. Started when I go to store in morning to get my morning coffee before work leave truck running get back in put it in drive/ rev no movement step on gas a little slams into gear. Put in neutral step on gas little shake then put in gear and gose.  Shut truck off start .. ok now at stop light stop truck after a few seconds feel a little kick if that doesn’t happen stuck in 3/4 gear shut truck off wait few seconds and start usually ok again. If you down shift manually ok as long as you get into 1st before stop. If not it kicks . I WANT A NEW TRANSMISSION. Now I want a new truck it just hit 80,000 IDK IF ILL BUY CHEVY CAUSE THEY STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM AND REFUSE TO RECALL . Oh I’ve changed the fluid and filter 3 times now. And yes used mobile 1 not ac/delco cause it’s not meeting the requirements that mobile is did use ac/delco filter 
    • Of course refrain from political debate but I myself have very dismal hope for what is all going on up here every where we turn so I nodded my head when I saw this joke.     
    • I'm looking at carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand and lumbar fusion. 
    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...