Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

On May 19th, 2021, 5 years, 2 months, and 15 days after getting Clyde in Missoula, MT with 27 miles on the odometer, I hit this milestone.

 

 

20210520_033843430_iOS.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted

In the spirit of my 100k update, I figured I'd add one for 200k

 

My experience with the K2XX platform over the past couple years.

 

Drivetrain: No axle seal leaks or bearing concerns. Radiator was replaced at 140k due to a weeping leak caused by an exuberant thermostat that opened too quickly. No issues since then. 4WD system operates very well and has no issues. Due to cost effectiveness, the rear differential fluid was changed to AMSOIL 75W90 at 193k. Fuel mileage improved noticeably (1 mpg/tank), and the gains seem to have held, so I will continue with it. The easy pack is so nice for fluid changes too. 

 

Transmission: The 8 Speed (M5U) gave me some trouble for the balance of this period. Nothing affecting operability of the vehicle, but the problems found were obnoxious. The issues started at 116k, in June of 19, when I towed a 96 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Concours from Newbury Park CA to Casper WY. Speed limit followed for most of the trip was 55 mph, with a boost to 65 mph from Rawlins WY to Casper WY. The symptoms that developed included a harsh 1-2 shift at all times, with deteriorating shift performance as time wore on. The 1-2 shift was the primary concern, with other shifts being relatively well behaved. Initially I attempted to remedy the situation with a drain and refill at 148k. No dice. 

 

A relearn was performed at 158k with no benefit. A drain and refill occurred again at 162k, again with no improvement in symptoms. A drain and fill occurred again at 173k, along with a new transmission temperature sensor harness (this includes the plugs for the solenoids). Shifting performance very briefly improved, but returned to baseline at 174k and deteriorated after another relearn at 175k. Shifting started to improve at 178k following the thermostat delete, where I reversed the internals of the trans cooler thermostat. However, the shifting would deteriorate at high temperatures (170 and up). 

 

At 180k the transmission wiring (trans temp sensor, speed sensor wiring, and jumper to the body harness) were all replaced, and another drain and fill were completed. Again, performance briefly improved, though a relearn shortly after the repair negated any progress on shift quality. After discussion with my parts guy Tim at the local Chevy dealer, we surmised the heat related nature of shift deterioration was electrically related, and the only part left to replace was the valve body, as the solenoids are integrated. 

  • Like 1
Posted

SO, at 181,524 miles, the valve body for the transmission was replaced, a drain and fill was performed, and a new valve body learn was performed at White's Chevy in Casper. The Chevy FSM says the new valve body has to be learned to the TCM for proper function. That was an adventure, as I do all my own work. Once I replaced all the related parts, I coasted back out of my driveway, and managed to coast downhill 75% of the way to the dealer, seeking to avoid causing any issues. The last 25% of the way was covered at 3 mph in 1st gear. 

 

The valve body resolved all shifting issues. Harsh 1-2 shift is gone, even on start up, all shifts are exceptional, up or down, manual mode works perfectly, and any lingering issues have vanished. Trans delete remains and Mobil LV HP blue label continues as the fluid of choice. I echo sentiments on this forum that GM's pursuit of fuel economy has created performance and longevity concerns. 

 

The L86 6.2L V8 is as reliable as the sunrise. No catch can, no aftermarket air box, no tunes, all stock, and just barely broken in. Performance has not changed, fuel economy is very much alive and well, and Blackstone Reports continue to shine. I can not recommend this engine enough, and strongly encourage anyone looking at a K2 to consider it. Oil changes continue at every 5k miles with Quaker State 0W-20 (not high mileage, as it's not Dexos, and I have enough to last through 300k) and the Purolator BOSS filter. 

 

Brakes were overhauled from the factory parts at 150k due to wear indicator noise. OEM Chevy parts were used, with the thinking that since the rear rotors needed replaced (excessive park brake wear from a sticky left cable), I would service the entire system with new parts. Park Brake system now functions perfectly, and the cause of the sticky cable (some idiot getting carried away with undercoating 😅) has been resolved. Fluid exchanges continue every 45k miles, and no issues are currently present. LR Bleeder screw was replaced due to same idiot rounding the bolt off. 

  • Like 3
Posted

Awesome update. Thanks for your thoroughness. 

 

9 minutes ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

we surmised the heat related nature of shift deterioration was electrically related

 

In regards to the above - are you saying it shifts completely fine if the trans doesn't get too hot and THEN the shift quality degrades? For example it drives great until it's above 170* and then it gets rough?

 

If so, I'd be plumbing in an external cooler before replacing the valve body. Though the latter is actually quite simple. I've done several on auto trans in the past installing shift kits, etc. and it's not hard at all. 

 

From a tuning perspective, the 8L90 can be dialed in quite nicely with some small changes so if I were you I would consider that also. Surprisingly the trans responds most noticeably to changes on the engine side. Once that's dialed in (since it's all torque-based) the stock trans tuning is actually pretty damn good (minus the awful torque converter lockup schedule). 

 

Anyways - just rambling and maybe you'll find something helpful  :)  

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
Posted
4 minutes ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

The L86 6.2L V8 is as reliable as the sunrise. No catch can, no aftermarket air box, no tunes, all stock, and just barely broken in. Performance has not changed, fuel economy is very much alive and well, and Blackstone Reports continue to shine. I can not recommend this engine enough, and strongly encourage anyone looking at a K2 to consider it. Oil changes continue at every 5k miles with Quaker State 0W-20 (not high mileage, as it's not Dexos, and I have enough to last through 300k) and the Purolator BOSS filter. 

Awesome feedback for a guy about to hit 100k on his L86 :)

 

STRONGLY emphasize this engine over the L83 5.3 if at all possible. They're hard to find - but seriously worth it. It's actually quite bizarre how well this engine performs and get's pretty much identical fuel mileage as a 5.3. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

The L86 6.2L V8 is as reliable as the sunrise.

 

Considering the 14 and 15 models have persistent valve spring issues (upgraded in 2016) I'm pleasantly surprised that you've been trouble free. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Wheels and tires are doing well. I've come to accept aluminum wheels show rock damage a little more due to the nature of aluminum. New RD4 wheels and Michelin Defender 275/55/20s went on at 140k miles. Same wheels are still on, and have weathered fairly well. I dinged one dropping my lug socket on it, but it's very minor and I'm sick of spending money on minor issues 😆. The Michelins have worn well, with my first set getting 81k miles. The second set lasted from 140k to 207k, due primarily to my bad habit of running pressures a tad high. They grip well, handle snow very well, and stand up to lead foot use very well. Highly recommend. 

 

Frame had developed surface rust in spots, and I have been touching it up with spray cans of the frame wax used by GM. Works well, sticks very well, and the frame looks much better for it. I deleted the frame end caps in the wheel wells cause they liked to trap dirt. One area of concern is the crossmember that goes above the fuel tank. It trapped dirt between the tank and the crossmember, so make sure to clean it out periodically. I found the mess during suspension service. 

 

Suspension received a full overhaul at 206k. Rear suspension overhaul included new leaf springs, ubolts, spacers, shackles, and shocks. Shocks do not last 200k. Ride was a little stiff in the rear, but upon inspection they were thoroughly worn out. I am happy with how well the Ranchos did, so OEM Ranchos were installed, along with all OEM Chevy parts for all parts replaced. The front suspension received new UCAs, LCAs, Swaybar links, Swaybar bushings, and strut assemblies. The front Ranchos seemed to fare better, though they were overdue too. New OEM Chevy parts were used for all parts replaced, including new Rancho struts. 

Edited by CadillacLuke24
  • Like 2
Posted
10 minutes ago, lucas287 said:

Awesome update. Thanks for your thoroughness. 

 

 

In regards to the above - are you saying it shifts completely fine if the trans doesn't get too hot and THEN the shift quality degrades? For example it drives great until it's above 170* and then it gets rough?

 

If so, I'd be plumbing in an external cooler before replacing the valve body. Though the latter is actually quite simple. I've done several on auto trans in the past installing shift kits, etc. and it's not hard at all. 

 

From a tuning perspective, the 8L90 can be dialed in quite nicely with some small changes so if I were you I would consider that also. Surprisingly the trans responds most noticeably to changes on the engine side. Once that's dialed in (since it's all torque-based) the stock trans tuning is actually pretty damn good (minus the awful torque converter lockup schedule). 

 

Anyways - just rambling and maybe you'll find something helpful  :)  

 

Shifting would gradually deteriorate as the trans warmed up. I say above 170 because one night after replacing the wiring harnesses I sat and idled until the gauge read 171. Once I proceeded to go driving the symptoms had glaringly worsened. 

 

I have Z82 trailering provisions, so part of that is a transmission cooler that occupies a fairly large section of the AC condenser. GM thought it would be good to install a thermostat, if you will, that bypasses the cooler until 192, at which point it opens. Since I've modified it to constantly stay open, the trans consistently runs 120s- 140s in the summer, and 90s to 120s in the winter. The hottest I've seen to date is 185....in Las Vegas in early July, with temps of 110s outside. 

 

Thank you for the recommendations though! I appreciate it! Starting to consider shifting. I agree, the 8L90E is actually pretty good. 

  • Like 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, lucas287 said:

Awesome feedback for a guy about to hit 100k on his L86 :)

 

STRONGLY emphasize this engine over the L83 5.3 if at all possible. They're hard to find - but seriously worth it. It's actually quite bizarre how well this engine performs and get's pretty much identical fuel mileage as a 5.3. 

 

 

Glad to hear it! The L86 is legendary! Glad you like yours too...it really is weird (but great) that it runs so well with no real fuel economy hit.

 

Me too...no valve spring issues whatsoever. He's a LATE 15 build though, so I think I may have got a lot of updates that came down the line in 16.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

I have Z82 trailering provisions, so part of that is a transmission cooler that occupies a fairly large section of the AC condenser. GM thought it would be good to install a thermostat, if you will, that bypasses the cooler until 192, at which point it opens. Since I've modified it to constantly stay open, the trans consistently runs 120s- 140s in the summer, and 90s to 120s in the winter. The hottest I've seen to date is 185....in Las Vegas in early July, with temps of 110s outside. 

 

Thank you for the recommendations though! I appreciate it! Starting to consider shifting. I agree, the 8L90E is actually pretty good. 

 

I wonder If I have that RPO code too. I'll check it out. I've heard from many VERY knowledgeable people that the 8L90 is a straight-up stud mechanically. I mean a beast. When GM built the C7 Z06 they changed almost everything in the engine to handle the boost but didn't changed a single thing in the 8L90. That's sweet right there. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

Me too...no valve spring issues whatsoever. He's a LATE 15 build though, so I think I may have got a lot of updates that came down the line in 16.

If you ever pop a valve cover - the '16 updates include blue valve springs. That could give you some peace. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks man! Will do! Yeah build date is 9/19/15, I wonder. 

 

Yeah Z82 gets you the trans cooler, 7/4 pin connecter in the bumper, the 12k hitch, and other goodies. If you have the L86 odds are you have a pretty sick rig in terms of options, so I bet you might

 

That is very impressive! I don't doubt it, it runs very well. They just give it some equally studly electronics!

Posted

Exhaust: I had swapped various front pipes and tried entire new systems to eliminate the obnoxious howl above 4k on the Chevy Borla system, with no luck. For some reason I decided one last go with a Chevy Borla I sourced from Findlay Chevy in Las Vegas. For whatever reason that did the trick! New system and tips and it sounds like it should! Quiet at cruise and LOUD at WOT. VERY happy! It even has a nice bark at cold start. I surmise the old muffler has some internal issue causing the howl. Perhaps it's time to get out the old boroscope. 

 

Bodywork: No issues. There's be a few accidents, and half the battle is finding a competent shop. I've solved that problem, and I've been driving more cautiously, which have both paid dividends. No rust concerns in the wheel wells, inside the box, under the cab, inside the fenders, etc. There's surface rust on some of the bumper mounts and trailer hitch, as well as inside the left rocker panel, but those are being remedied with petroleum based undercoating. 

 

Paint is doing ok. Multiple rock chips are present, but they can be touched up easy enough. 

 

Glass is fairing well, no issues, and the current windshield is weathering well. 

 

Interior continues to wear well. Plastic panels don't respond well to abuse from service technicians, but they hold up very well in daily use, and even the occasional bump from a Fitbit, tool bag, or set of keys in the door panel pockets. Leather has some stress wrinkles from high traffic areas but no cracks, and the colors hold fast well. Cushioning and heating/cooling modules were replaced in the driver's seat for comfort concerns at 195k miles, but no other issues have arisen. Multiple interior panels have been replaced due to the aforementioned abuse. 

Posted

Exterior plastics tend to show wear, especially from rocks. I am referring to the black air dam, aerospats in front of the rear wheels, and obviously the mud flaps. Wear improves when some goon learns patience and doesn't follow winter traffic too close. I prefer sand to salt for sure, this is just a side effect of that. 

 

Infotainment continues to work very well, and it adapted seamlessly to my Iphone 11 I got in March of 20. Prior to that it worked well with my Microsoft Lumia. I have kept up with map updates and they serve me very well. Additionally, the SiriusXM Travel Link is extremely helpful in aiding me to navigate around troublesome weather. 

Posted

Several people have asked when I plan to replace Clyde, or how long I'll keep him. 

 

Unless he's damaged beyond physical repair, he's here to stay. I love my Silverado. 11/10, would definitely drive again!

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...