Jump to content

Lower ball joint replacement vs Control arms ? Is it worth it ?

Yotaman

By Yotaman
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Yotaman Enthusiast

Yotaman

Posted
Posted

I brought my 2014 GMC Sierra SLE in for a tire rotation today and they summoned me to the shop area. The lower ball joint on the passenger side has about 1/16" or so slack in it. The guy says it is not that bad yet and truck has 77K on odometer. They quoted me about 700 bucks to replace both lower ball joints. I called another shop I usually use for mechanic work when it is more than I want to handle and they was 900 something. So after some googling and youtubing etc I found that I can get from Rockauto both the upper and lower control arms with ball joints installed for about 220.00 these are the  Mevotech brand. Is it worth it to just have the ball joints replaced or wise and easier to just replace both control arms ? Any danger or quality issue getting away from the OEM control arms ? I am just collecting data to make a decision on which way to go and if I want to do the work myself or buy the parts and pay a mechanic to do it. 

And the truck still drives fine so  I wonder if they are really bad are maybe they just pushing a upsell ??

 

Thanks,

Yotaman

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't even bother with that minimal amount of play. Check it again in 5-10k miles and see if it's the same or worse.

 

I'd go with MOOG or Delphi/AC delco before going with Mevotech. The Mevotech line of parts aren't bad but the better or OEM parts on rockauto aren't that much more money. You do need to know what controls arms you have now though. They make aluminum and steel and the material the knuckle is made out of matters too.

  • Like 1
Yotaman Enthusiast

Yotaman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for the advice and I will check them again after the first of the year. I have read a thread where Moog is not what it used to be as it is what I always used in the past. The OEM to me has only lasted 77K miles so I  am not sure any are better than the others. My arms are steel as I did check. Thanks again for the advice.

 

Yotaman

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
anthonymason59223051 Enthusiast

anthonymason59223051

Posted
Posted
On 11/12/2021 at 10:33 PM, CamGTP said:

I wouldn't even bother with that minimal amount of play. Check it again in 5-10k miles and see if it's the same or worse.

 

I'd go with MOOG or Delphi/AC delco before going with Mevotech. The Mevotech line of parts aren't bad but the better or OEM parts on rockauto aren't that much more money. You do need to know what controls arms you have now though. They make aluminum and steel and the material the knuckle is made out of matters too.

i had gone with the mevotech ttx lower joints when i rebuilt the front end on my 2018 LT texas edition ccsb 4x4 (roughly 90-95k miles) 13 months in and one of the grease zerks wont take grease, the other took grease but broke off trying to get the hose off. both of the boots were split after 3 months... discovered that fact when they started making noise. still have no play, just noisy. my opinion is the joints are good, but the boots are junk. now that i cant grease either one i am either going to "downgrade" to the supreme to get the better boot or go OE when they start to get excessive movement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 698 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...