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2002 express 3500 motor home noise under motor home sounds like maybe ring& pinion just bought one trip , how best way to check make noise mid range on an off gas let up slight an noise may stop till you start to go , i was hoping it was a removeable punpkin , where is the best an cheapest place to get it fixed, at 80 changing the hold rear end might be too much??? this is my 4th motor home an i do most of my own work, ps can the rear end be reset up with out changing the ring an pinion??? 

Posted

Check for slop in the pinion yoke due to a bad bearing or loose preload - that could be the source of the noise in a best-case scenario. It may just be the pinion nut loosened up for whatever reason, and needs the correct preload back on it. In that case you could tighten the nut (just a tiny bit at a time - maybe 1/8th-inch at a time, then go for a test drive and see if things improved or got worse. If that doesn't work, you'll want to pull the cover, drain the fluid and see what is going on inside.

 

If you find metal shavings or chunks, and/or worn out parts inside, the easiest and cheapest route would be to grab the entire assembly from a junkyard - a straightforward bolt-out, bolt-in process with no special tools. But, you're definitely going to need some help - they're not light in a half ton truck, let alone a 1-ton. Not worth injuring your back, knees, or shoulders over - I'd round up a few younger guys to help out there, for sure. You'll need that help to get the assembly out of the truck, too, unless you've got an engine hoist around.

 

Also make sure you've got HEAVY jack stands, and at least 4 of them (2 for the assembly and AT LEAST 2 for the vehicle), to keep yourself safe under there.

 

With these newer computer controlled vehicles, you really have to pay attention to what you get, too. ABS systems and different brake configurations & sizes can ruin your day. Try to find the same chassis with the same RPO code (the "G" codes are for the rear end), and make sure the bolt pattern and hubs are the same (not a single wheel rear end). 

 

 

Swapping the internals is doable, but all those components are really heavy inside, and need to be moved around A LOT during set up. You might have to install and remove the carrier 5 or more times to get everything set right. It can be frustrating, especially if you've never done one before. Lifting a carrier with the ring gear bolted on in a 1-ton rear takes some muscle, too. If it were me, I would just find a good junkyard assembly like I mentioned and swap out the entire thing. Install some new parking brake cables, then do a fluid change, and be on your way. 

 

I don't know what kind of physical shape you're in, but I'd highly suggest finding some help with that if you plan to do it yourself. Healing sucks the older we get! Definitely want to avoid injuries if at all possible. If you live where they use road salt, and that RV has been in it at some point in its life, you're going to have a good sized battle on your hands, so that's something else to be aware of. 

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