Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Doesn't need a new ECM. You can reprogram it with factory tuning, or, a tuner shop can tune over it.

Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

I use to program to the redline then back a-bit I believe 5900. Then 50 percent TM and their premium engine tune. I can’t imagine a can tune jacking up that bad as he described. Unless a drastic tire size change?

Rev limits and shift points are adjustable in the tuner. Someone jacked it way up to the moon, and probably didn't understand what was happening when it hit the rev limiter, and dumped the truck. I hate when people do that and don't include the tuner! Pretty much screwed without it.

Edited by Jsdirt
  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Jsdirt said:

Doesn't need a new ECM. You can reprogram it with factory tuning, or, a tuner shop can tune over it.

That sounds like the best way to go. Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted
40 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

Rev limits and shift points are adjustable in the tuner. Someone jacked it way up to the moon, and probably didn't understand what was happening when it hit the rev limiter, and dumped the truck. I hate when people do that and don't include the tuner! Pretty much screwed without it.

I would of left it stock like my old 2001 silverado. Never had a problem with it.

Posted

Yeah, there's no need to screw with rev limits or shift points unless you installed an aggressive camshaft and heavier valve springs, and need the thing to rev out to 7k to make use of the top-end power.

Posted

I've got the Hypertech tuner on mine - bought it in '07 when my truck was still brand new.  Got a cold air intake, and Corsa cat back system, and that's it as far as mods go. It woke the truck up pretty good. I have all the transmission parameters set to stock, since my transmission is built to the moon, so all of that has been taken care of by the builder. I can actually break stuff inside the trans if I go ramping up shift firmness, since my pump is already set to run in triple-digit pressures.

 

Back when the truck had the original trans (before 103k miles), I cranked up the shift firmness as high as it would go. That probably got me several thousand more miles out of it. Yours is built MUCH better than mine, so you won't have to worry about that too much. From '07-up, parts quality of these trucks really took a nosedive.

 

As far as shift RPM and rev limits, I left all that alone, since there was no reason to increase or decrease any of that from stock.

 

One time I screwed up and changed the rear end gearing in the tuner - thought I had set it back to where it should have been, but I missed a key step. Every light on the cluster lit up, shift points were screwed up, and the truck was bucking and surging like crazy! Luckily I didn't break anything. The shifts were violent.  I only drove it 4 miles that way. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

I've got the Hypertech tuner on mine - bought it in '07 when my truck was still brand new.  Got a cold air intake, and Corsa cat back system, and that's it as far as mods go. It woke the truck up pretty good. I have all the transmission parameters set to stock, since my transmission is built to the moon, so all of that has been taken care of by the builder. I can actually break stuff inside the trans if I go ramping up shift firmness, since my pump is already set to run in triple-digit pressures.

 

Back when the truck had the original trans (before 103k miles), I cranked up the shift firmness as high as it would go. That probably got me several thousand more miles out of it. Yours is built MUCH better than mine, so you won't have to worry about that too much. From '07-up, parts quality of these trucks really took a nosedive.

 

As far as shift RPM and rev limits, I left all that alone, since there was no reason to increase or decrease any of that from stock.

 

One time I screwed up and changed the rear end gearing in the tuner - thought I had set it back to where it should have been, but I missed a key step. Every light on the cluster lit up, shift points were screwed up, and the truck was bucking and surging like crazy! Luckily I didn't break anything. The shifts were violent.  I only drove it 4 miles that way. 

I'm not into the newer way of tuning with the computer stuff. I still run a 1970 LT1 in a 64 nova that's built. Much easier for me to tune.

  • Like 1
Posted

AMEN to that! If I had my way, I wouldn't drive anything built after 1972!

 

We've got a '86 Grand Marquis daily driver that's all stock and original. Still runs the original OE in-tank fuel pump - 36 years, 285k miles! Try that on anything built in the last 25 years. We take it off the road every winter, otherwise it would've rotted away to nothing 25 years ago. The road salt up here is brutal.

 

We run a '93 Volvo 940 for a winter beater. They used top quality metals and paint on this thing - been in New England winters since it rolled off the showroom floor in '92, and has minimal rust and no rot. Slow as slow can get, but it's as reliable as a stone ax, totally unlike my Silverado has been. I'm at 117k on the Silverado, and I'm planning an engine swap already due to low oil pressure. Started burning oil at 50k miles! Had nothing but trouble with this thing since DAY 1. Brakes, ball joints, rear end failure at 97k, trans at 103k - one thing after another.

Posted
4 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

AMEN to that! If I had my way, I wouldn't drive anything built after 1972!

 

We've got a '86 Grand Marquis daily driver that's all stock and original. Still runs the original OE in-tank fuel pump - 36 years, 285k miles! Try that on anything built in the last 25 years. We take it off the road every winter, otherwise it would've rotted away to nothing 25 years ago. The road salt up here is brutal.

 

We run a '93 Volvo 940 for a winter beater. They used top quality metals and paint on this thing - been in New England winters since it rolled off the showroom floor in '92, and has minimal rust and no rot. Slow as slow can get, but it's as reliable as a stone ax, totally unlike my Silverado has been. I'm at 117k on the Silverado, and I'm planning an engine swap already due to low oil pressure. Started burning oil at 50k miles! Had nothing but trouble with this thing since DAY 1. Brakes, ball joints, rear end failure at 97k, trans at 103k - one thing after another.

My 2001 silverado was completely stock and had 247,000 miles with normal maintenance,  water pump and alternator. Some jack wipe pulled in front of me and totalled it. I had it from new. Great truck.

Posted

Crap! Sorry to hear that. Those are great trucks - I see many well over 300k still running.

Posted
1 minute ago, Jsdirt said:

Crap! Sorry to hear that. Those are great trucks - I see many well over 300k still running.

I found my 2001 sierra at a dealership with only 160000 miles. It hasn't been too bad except for the program. I will get thru that ok.

Posted

It does NOT lock the ECU / PCM. It locks the tool so you can't upload it to more than one vehicle. It also captures your stock info in the tool, which cannot be uploaded to any vehicle but the original. With a J-box you can wipe the PCM and start over. 

 

Look at the link I posted to the picture straight from the manual - "If a service facility reprograms your vehicle's computer with an update, your Hypertech Power Tuning will be erased."

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...