Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just picked up a 2020 Sierra 2500 HD Denali. I am trying to determine if it has a leveling kit installed. It has 285/60/20’s installed and I want to go back to stock 275/65/20’s. I would also prefer to be stock height. Anyone know stock height to wheel wells?

Thanks

Posted (edited)

w

2 hours ago, Carp 2500 HD said:

I just picked up a 2020 Sierra 2500 HD Denali. I am trying to determine if it has a leveling kit installed. It has 285/60/20’s installed and I want to go back to stock 275/65/20’s. I would also prefer to be stock height. Anyone know stock height to wheel wells?

Thanks

 

 

Somewhat tricky on an HD.  On a 1500 its real easy to spot leveling parts.  If it was done with the stock torsion keys, the bolts would be turned up 5-10 turns.  It could have aftermarket keys in it as well. 

 

I'd be looking for shock extenders as well, either mounted up top or at the bottom of the front shocks.  I'd check the rear for lift blocks as well.  

 

To turn it back to stock ride, I'd have an alignment done and have them set the Trim Height of the truck, or Z height.  That will let them set the front ride height within the stock range GM prefers.  

Edited by newdude
Posted

Thank you guys for the info. In my novice mechanical abilities it doesn’t appear to have been altered. The bolts on the torsion keys however are not equal, should they be? The truck sits maybe a 1/2” lower in the front. I just don’t want to be squatted when I hook up the 5th wheel. (1605 lbs pin weight)

Posted
2 hours ago, Carp 2500 HD said:

Thank you guys for the info. In my novice mechanical abilities it doesn’t appear to have been altered. The bolts on the torsion keys however are not equal, should they be? The truck sits maybe a 1/2” lower in the front. I just don’t want to be squatted when I hook up the 5th wheel. (1605 lbs pin weight)

 

 

No, the bolts are usually never equal.  Driver side is typically higher because of the weight of the fuel tank and driver.  

Posted (edited)

If the truck sits only 1/2 inch higher in the rear it has been altered. In the stock configuration it should be 2 plus inches higher in the back when unloaded. 
 

I have a 2021 3500hd cclb with stock suspension and wheels/tires. When I install my popup camper, which puts 1600 lbs on the rear axle and 100 on the front axle ( I weighed it), the rear drops about 2 inches. The rear is still about 1/2 inch higher than the front with the camper on. The overload springs are not engaged at that load, so a 2500 would be the same. 
 

if you are approximately level unloaded, your 1600 lb 5th wheel hitch load is going to cause your truck to be about 2 inches lower in the rear. It will be close to the stops at that point. 

Edited by Another JR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,051 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...