Jump to content

3500 Camper install

mobilelists
 Share

Recommended Posts

mobilelists Enthusiast

mobilelists

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am in the process of having a slide-in camper build for a 2022 3500 SLE Double cab, Long bed, 4WD.  One question is what is the largest size that will fit to the end without the tailgate installed?

 

So if I were to create the largest box 5 feet tall that could slide into the truck bed and just come to the end of the bed with the tailgate removed, would it would be
 
98.27 inches long (The inside length of bed is 98.27 in. off a sheet the dealer showed)
and 50.55 in.wide (the inside width between the wheelhousing is 50.55 in.off the same sheet from the dealer).
 
Thanks
Edited by mobilelists
spelling
Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

Seems like maybe you’ve answered your own questions, but I have my camper off my 2021 3500 hd srw right now and could take bed measurements if you’d like. I have the factory sprayed-in bedliner. 

mobilelists Enthusiast

mobilelists

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My concern is that the dimensions are actually for the case of the tailgate attached and closed.  I really need from inside the bed to the end of the taillights so I maximize the camper size.

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

This picture was taken with the end of the tape measure against the front wall of the bed at the floor. The top rail of the front wall extends rearward into the bed 2 inches. So your bumpers are against the lower front wall and the rail is 2 inches closer to the front wall of your camper. Figure accordingly. It’s 101 inches from the lower front bed wall to the end of the sheet metal behind the tail light  the tail light itself protrudes another inch.DE8E4BBD-2069-4C65-A92B-2FF1743D22F8.thumb.jpeg.c5f459e8abc10afb16f5a70dbe220059.jpeg

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

I’m happy to do measurements, pictures, or answer questions. It’s easy right now when the camper is out. I went through the same kinds of questions when I was trying plan an installation without the products in front of me. 

  • 1 month later...
mobilelists Enthusiast

mobilelists

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I finally got the truck!

 

New question, what's the best way to route a couple 1/0 cables under the  truck to the truck bed?  Should I use metal conduit or loom?

 

Thanks

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, mobilelists said:

I finally got the truck!

 

New question, what's the best way to route a couple 1/0 cables under the  truck to the truck bed?  Should I use metal conduit or loom?

 

Thanks

You could use liquid tight conduit or even aluminum armor flex conduit. They would be the best of both worlds.

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted (edited)

I’m curious why you are running such large wires to the camper.  Dedicated second alternator?

Edited by Another JR
mobilelists Enthusiast

mobilelists

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, Another JR said:

I’m curious why you are running such large wires to the camper.  Dedicated second alternator?

I did order the 2nd alternator and battery.  In this case, the camper has a lithium system that can take a lot of current.  I am starting out with a 60amp battery to battery charger and if necessary there is room for a second. 

mobilelists Enthusiast

mobilelists

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, gemarsh said:

You could use liquid tight conduit or even aluminum armor flex conduit. They would be the best of both worlds.

I was considering thin walled metalic tubing but now that I actually have the truck, I see that the need to make a lot of bends to follow around the obstacles on the passenger side.  The aluminum armor flex conduit would make that easy.  I was hoping that there would be more gaps to thread wire ties but it is surprisingly free of holes along the run.  Just want it safe and away from possible contact with tall brush.

 

Thanks

NWStever Enthusiast

NWStever

Posted
Posted (edited)

Split loom will be adequate and reliable as long as you carefully route and secure the cable along the same path as OEM wiring follows on the frame to back of truck.  Do, however, make sure you provide sufficient slack to accomodate frame twisting and bending especially in the area between the cab and bed. 

Edited by NWStever
mobilelists Enthusiast

mobilelists

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I asked this question another thread but the answer may be within this group.  I have the upfitter switches installed and working.  Now I am trying to figure out how best to fasten a t-fuse holder and a relay in the engine compartment.  From there to the truck bed is not a problem.

 

Which locations and mounting methods have worked best for others? I am using a Blue Sea Systems 5502 Class T Fuse Block and a  relay.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 
Edited by mobilelists
  • 4 weeks later...
mobilelists Enthusiast

mobilelists

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Been prepping truck for camper.  Amazed at the size of the truck.  For the first time in many years I had to get a soft fender cover to prevent scratching while reaching in to work on stuff.  I  find it a pain to get to some of the connections on the firewall short of building a platform over the engine.

 

To make it easier...does anyone know the thread size of the ground bolt on the driver side near the area that the upfitter cable feeds into the cabin?  The near mirror image on the passenger side serves as the ground point for the batterry.  It is very hard to access.

 

Thanks

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

Don’t know the thread size but just wanted to make sure you noticed the more easily accessible large ground studs outboard of the fuse box on the left side. I used one of them for the supply to my 30 amp dc to dc converter. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,157 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MikeBMW
      Installing tow mirrors

      By MikeBMW · Posted

      Yep! This should be a pin somewhere as @pgamboa really dives into all of this. Thanks for reposting the link!
    • Grumpy Bear
      TCM Tuning 6L80E

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I did the new thermostat after doing a 'flip' for a year. Runs as cool one way as the other in the summer but in the winter there is a bit of a floor. Yellow with the new 70 C thermostat. My data over the life of the unit to date. Still need more cooler. Anyway that floor helped both winter fuel economy and shift quality in the winter. I found it a good balance.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Food & Drink

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Atlas, you kill me As aggravating as a project like this can be you have been unable to hide your fascination with learning and using that angst against this beast like a Ninjitsu Master. It amuses you, admit it now.      BTW, love your writing style. 😉       

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...