Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I am in the process of having a slide-in camper build for a 2022 3500 SLE Double cab, Long bed, 4WD.  One question is what is the largest size that will fit to the end without the tailgate installed?

 

So if I were to create the largest box 5 feet tall that could slide into the truck bed and just come to the end of the bed with the tailgate removed, would it would be
 
98.27 inches long (The inside length of bed is 98.27 in. off a sheet the dealer showed)
and 50.55 in.wide (the inside width between the wheelhousing is 50.55 in.off the same sheet from the dealer).
 
Thanks
Edited by mobilelists
spelling
Posted

Seems like maybe you’ve answered your own questions, but I have my camper off my 2021 3500 hd srw right now and could take bed measurements if you’d like. I have the factory sprayed-in bedliner. 

Posted

My concern is that the dimensions are actually for the case of the tailgate attached and closed.  I really need from inside the bed to the end of the taillights so I maximize the camper size.

Posted

This picture was taken with the end of the tape measure against the front wall of the bed at the floor. The top rail of the front wall extends rearward into the bed 2 inches. So your bumpers are against the lower front wall and the rail is 2 inches closer to the front wall of your camper. Figure accordingly. It’s 101 inches from the lower front bed wall to the end of the sheet metal behind the tail light  the tail light itself protrudes another inch.DE8E4BBD-2069-4C65-A92B-2FF1743D22F8.thumb.jpeg.c5f459e8abc10afb16f5a70dbe220059.jpeg

Posted

I’m happy to do measurements, pictures, or answer questions. It’s easy right now when the camper is out. I went through the same kinds of questions when I was trying plan an installation without the products in front of me. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I finally got the truck!

 

New question, what's the best way to route a couple 1/0 cables under the  truck to the truck bed?  Should I use metal conduit or loom?

 

Thanks

Posted
1 hour ago, mobilelists said:

I finally got the truck!

 

New question, what's the best way to route a couple 1/0 cables under the  truck to the truck bed?  Should I use metal conduit or loom?

 

Thanks

You could use liquid tight conduit or even aluminum armor flex conduit. They would be the best of both worlds.

Posted (edited)

I’m curious why you are running such large wires to the camper.  Dedicated second alternator?

Edited by Another JR
Posted
7 hours ago, Another JR said:

I’m curious why you are running such large wires to the camper.  Dedicated second alternator?

I did order the 2nd alternator and battery.  In this case, the camper has a lithium system that can take a lot of current.  I am starting out with a 60amp battery to battery charger and if necessary there is room for a second. 

Posted
7 hours ago, gemarsh said:

You could use liquid tight conduit or even aluminum armor flex conduit. They would be the best of both worlds.

I was considering thin walled metalic tubing but now that I actually have the truck, I see that the need to make a lot of bends to follow around the obstacles on the passenger side.  The aluminum armor flex conduit would make that easy.  I was hoping that there would be more gaps to thread wire ties but it is surprisingly free of holes along the run.  Just want it safe and away from possible contact with tall brush.

 

Thanks

Posted (edited)

Split loom will be adequate and reliable as long as you carefully route and secure the cable along the same path as OEM wiring follows on the frame to back of truck.  Do, however, make sure you provide sufficient slack to accomodate frame twisting and bending especially in the area between the cab and bed. 

Edited by NWStever
Posted (edited)

I asked this question another thread but the answer may be within this group.  I have the upfitter switches installed and working.  Now I am trying to figure out how best to fasten a t-fuse holder and a relay in the engine compartment.  From there to the truck bed is not a problem.

 

Which locations and mounting methods have worked best for others? I am using a Blue Sea Systems 5502 Class T Fuse Block and a  relay.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 
Edited by mobilelists
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Been prepping truck for camper.  Amazed at the size of the truck.  For the first time in many years I had to get a soft fender cover to prevent scratching while reaching in to work on stuff.  I  find it a pain to get to some of the connections on the firewall short of building a platform over the engine.

 

To make it easier...does anyone know the thread size of the ground bolt on the driver side near the area that the upfitter cable feeds into the cabin?  The near mirror image on the passenger side serves as the ground point for the batterry.  It is very hard to access.

 

Thanks

Posted

Don’t know the thread size but just wanted to make sure you noticed the more easily accessible large ground studs outboard of the fuse box on the left side. I used one of them for the supply to my 30 amp dc to dc converter. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Correct.  2019-2020 are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.   The recall engines 2021-2024 are serviced with 12740076.     What the difference is between the two, I'm not sure, but 2019-2020 only show 19420611 as the replacement engine p/n.  
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...