Steering wheel control illumination

[Nicholas Dufresne]

I have a 2014 Silverado. The backlight on my steering wheel switches was not working so I changed them and it still doesn’t work. Any idea why? Everything else functions correctly 

[Jsdirt]

Could be a clockspring issue, or more likely some crap wiring that split and shorted, or broke completely.

[Nicholas Dufresne]

13 hours ago, Jsdirt said:

Could be a clockspring issue, or more likely some crap wiring that split and shorted, or broke completely.

Could it be an issue with the bcm or something else?

[Jsdirt]

Unfortunately anything is possible. Without testing things, it's anyone's guess.

 

Most common issue is the wires break from the tilt wheel function bending them back and forth, since GM uses some of the worst quality wiring I've ever seen, and has for over 15 model years. If I were a betting man I'd say the problem is in the wiring right in the column. The flex point of the tilt wheel is where I'd start looking.

[Nicholas Dufresne]

1 hour ago, Jsdirt said:

Unfortunately anything is possible. Without testing things, it's anyone's guess.

 

Most common issue is the wires break from the tilt wheel function bending them back and forth, since GM uses some of the worst quality wiring I've ever seen, and has for over 15 model years. If I were a betting man I'd say the problem is in the wiring right in the column. The flex point of the tilt wheel is where I'd start looking.

I looked theryre all wrapped up and look good 

[Jsdirt]

Give them a tug, or a continuity test. They can break inside the jacketing - you'd never find it visually in that case. If the wire stretches like elastic and breaks in your hand, it was broken internally.

[Nicholas Dufresne]

15 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

Give them a tug, or a continuity test. They can break inside the jacketing - you'd never find it visually in that case. If the wire stretches like elastic and breaks in your hand, it was broken internally.

Pulled on them

and nothing broke or stretched. You think clockspring or bcm issue? 

[Jsdirt]

I still think there's a wiring issue. I'd check the wiring from the BCM to the switches first. BCM is always a possibility, but I'd want to exhaust all other options first before condemning any module. I don't think the clockspring is an issue since all the switches work ... but that's still a possibility, too.

[Nicholas Dufresne]

1 minute ago, Jsdirt said:

I still think there's a wiring issue. I'd check the wiring from the BCM to the switches first. BCM is always a possibility, but I'd want to exhaust all other options first before condemning any module. I don't think the clockspring is an issue since all the switches work ... but that's still a possibility, too.

I don’t have the ability to check the continuity because of a lack of of knowledge and the tool but I was going to change the clockspring and see how it played out. All the writing looks good and when I pulled on the wires running from the clockspring to the bcm none of them came out or broke 

[Nicholas Dufresne]

2 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

I still think there's a wiring issue. I'd check the wiring from the BCM to the switches first. BCM is always a possibility, but I'd want to exhaust all other options first before condemning any module. I don't think the clockspring is an issue since all the switches work ... but that's still a possibility, too.

Now if I can find out which wire is running for the switches back lighting I can check that wire and know if it’s wiring or not right? 

[Jsdirt]

I would load that wire to see if it can handle the current load. Isolate it completely from both ends, use a power source and a halogen headlamp bulb and use that length of wire to power it up. If the bulb is nice and bright, you can be certain the wiring is good.

 

I wouldn't go winging a clockspring at it until you test everything out first. Will be a huge waste of money and time if that's not it. Usually when they fail, NOTHING works - horn, switches, backlighting. I'd only replace that if I exhausted all other options.

Edited July 15, 2022 by Jsdirt

[Nicholas Dufresne]

4 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

I would load that wire to see if it can handle the current load. Isolate it completely from both ends, use a power source and a halogen headlamp bulb and use that length of wire to power it up. If the bulb is nice and bright, you can be certain the wiring is good.

 

I wouldn't go winging a clockspring at it until you test everything out first. Will be a huge waste of money and time if that's not it. Usually when they fail, NOTHING works - horn, switches, backlighting. I'd only replace that if I exhausted all other options.

How do I know which wire is for the backlighting? 

[Nicholas Dufresne]

6 hours ago, Jsdirt said:

I would load that wire to see if it can handle the current load. Isolate it completely from both ends, use a power source and a halogen headlamp bulb and use that length of wire to power it up. If the bulb is nice and bright, you can be certain the wiring is good.

 

I wouldn't go winging a clockspring at it until you test everything out first. Will be a huge waste of money and time if that's not it. Usually when they fail, NOTHING works - horn, switches, backlighting. I'd only replace that if I exhausted all other options.

Checked for voltage and 3 wires show none 

[Jsdirt]

That's your problem - you need to find out why.