Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone know if/where I can buy the red locking clips for the dial connectors on the engine harness?  

Posted
29 minutes ago, SPASierra said:

This is what I am referring to

Screen Shot 2022-08-31 at 4.56.12 PM.png

 

 

You will have to get the service connector to get that clip.  19371184 for $186.12 retail. 

 

Aptiv (formerly Delphi) has a # for the CPA clip but it is not available on any of the electronics component sites like Mouser Electronics.  

Posted

Thanks newdude.  I figured that was going to be the case, but figured it was worth a shot.  I will live with it as is, and just check it periodically.  It seems the side latch locks it in place anyway, and the red clip is just an additional safety mechanism.

Posted
1 hour ago, SPASierra said:

Thanks newdude.  I figured that was going to be the case, but figured it was worth a shot.  I will live with it as is, and just check it periodically.  It seems the side latch locks it in place anyway, and the red clip is just an additional safety mechanism.

Not saying it is morraly correct, but you could rent a U-Haul truck for the day and "borrow" the part, saving a lot of money compared to the new harness🤔😬

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Not saying it is morraly correct, but you could rent a U-Haul truck for the day and "borrow" the part, saving a lot of money compared to the new harness🤔😬

 

I've heard stories of people getting "new" tires that way.  Although what's absurd to me is that these people would have to have just as new of a car as the rental company, which usually rotates through their stock faster than most non-commercial vehicle owners do.  I never understood how the non-commercial tires would be worn more than the rental company tires.

Edited by BlaineBug
Posted
2 hours ago, BlaineBug said:

 

I've heard stories of people getting "new" tires that way.  Although what's absurd to me is that these people would have to have just as new of a car as the rental company, which usually rotates through their stock faster than most non-commercial vehicle owners do.  I never understood how the non-commercial tires would be worn more than the rental company tires.

In the late 60's racers would rent the Hertz Shelby Mustangs under the "Rent a Racer" program for $17.00 a day, beat the crap out of them, then do an engine and transmission swap taking the HO289 before returning the car with whatever came out of their car. 

Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

In the late 60's racers would rent the Hertz Shelby Mustangs under the "Rent a Racer" program for $17.00 a day, beat the crap out of them, then do an engine and transmission swap taking the HO289 before returning the car with whatever came out of their car. 

Dedication!

My Yukon is an ex-Hertz Rental.  34,000 miles in less than 1 year of service with the company.  With that being said nothing seems to have been abused, no metal in the trans or differentials.  Had a loud passenger front wheel bearing 2 years after I bought it is all, and a passenger rear leaking wheel seal this spring.

Edited by BlaineBug
  • Like 1
Posted

Go to a pull-a-part wrecking yard and grab one out of a wrecked truck. Either pop the safety clip out of the connector or find a cut harness with one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,481 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...