Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yep, the manual one on the dash. It appeared to be working, no reason the believe it didnt other than process if elimination. Dealer changed the 7pin plug. I replaced the whole brake system and if it would signal out to the module in the back on gain 10 and using manually, then the module was receiving signal. So for under $75, it was worth a shot. 

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, marpel said:

bruceb58,

 

Agreed about the clamp meter. This may be the impetus for me to go out and get one. 

 

I have the Fluke 325. It's expensive but a great meter.

 

I am sure there other ones also that will suffice for something like this.

Edited by bruceb58
Posted

Chadw90,

 

I called the Dealer Parts dept about whether they had a brake controller, and price, for my truck. After an incredibly long time on hold, he came back and indicated they had a few in stock and they were $382 (taxes and installation not included).

 

When I questioned this price, he advised me that because the truck had an aftermarket brake controller system, I would need to buy the controller, full harness and control module, as the controller alone would not work with the a/m components.

 

I advised him that I had the OEM controller/system from the factory (up to the point he told me I had an aftermarket, no-one had discussed this at all) and questioned the validity of the unavailability of just the controller. He again put me on hold and finally advised that they had just the controller and the price was $67.

 

I have a service appointment this Friday (tailgate switch recall), but it seems every time I deal with this group, I am getting less confident in their abilities (long story). I am wondering if I can purchase the controller and install it myself, rather than have them do it on Friday.

 

So, can you advise if you replaced the controller yourself and, if so, give me an idea if it is an easy DIY project?

 

Thanks,

 

Marv

Posted
On 7/11/2024 at 7:53 PM, marpel said:

Thanks for the continued input. The problem with your belief about the "simplicity" of the system is, I have been unable to find anyone at the dealership with credentials (from techs all the way up to the service manager) who can actually tell me conclusively what does what and how. So if they don't know, how are us commoners supposed to know?.....

I doubt they know much more than published information I posted, I'd be interested to do an actual diagnostic of Chadw90's condition to see what tests point to replacing the switch to get better performance. Then compare those same test results to your truck. 

 

In his case there was an actual problem (apparently) and would like to see if that is the same in your case.

 

In any case, all we are 'supposed' to know is what ever the manual says.

Posted
11 hours ago, marpel said:

So, can you advise if you replaced the controller yourself and, if so, give me an idea if it is an easy DIY project?

Should be real easy, pull the panel off, unplug the switch, pull it off the panel. Reverse for installation.

Posted
Quote

Testing The Truck's Trailer Brake System 

In many cases, trailer brake issues are the result of trailer wiring concerns and they are not related to the actual vehicle's wiring.  Most trailers with these wiring issues do not have high standards in relation to wiring/connections/splices/routing practices (see examples in Step 3 below) when compared to similar automotive practices for wiring/connections/splices/routing.  Because of this, the CCM/BSCM can set faults, which can be hard to determine if they are related to the truck or trailer.  The easiest and fastest way to test the truck is to make a tester using trailer brake magnets.  This type of tester utilizes actual trailer brake magnets and will load the truck's electrical system, just like a trailer would do without having to have the complete trailer.  Shown below is an examples of such a tester.  The trailer brake system will operate with 1 to 4 pairs of trailer brake magnets (1 pair of magnets = 1 axle).  It is suggested to make a tester where the pairs of magnets can be added or removed to equal the same number of brakes as the customer's trailer.  Also, it is advised to make the harness long enough so it can be plugged into the truck's 7 way connector and have the magnets placed into the bed of the truck.  When the tester is connected to the truck, the DIC will display "Trailer Connected" and GDS2 will show "Electro-magnetic" brakes in the CCM/BSCM data parameter "Trailer Brake Type", refer to item 1 in "GDS2 Data" section below .  If so, the vehicle can be driven to see if any fault messages or DTCs set.  If none occur with the tester installed, the truck is operating correctly and the focus should be on the trailer wiring or 7 way connector.  


Making the Tester

1.  7 way RV trailer connector (example: Pollak Heavy Duty 7-Way Part # 12-706) Qty: 1

2.  Electric Trailer Brake Magnets (example: Dexter Axle Part # K71-104-00)  Qty: 2, 4, 6, or 8

3.  12 gauge wire and terminals/connectors Qty: as needed

Connect two 12 gauge wires to the 7-way RV trailer connector: one to the "Ground" terminal and a second to the "Brake Controller Output" terminal (circuit 47), shown below.  Connect the other ends of the 12 gauge wires to the trailer brake magnets.  All magnets must be connected in parallel so each magnet wire is connected to the Ground and Brake Controller Output wires from the 7 way connector.

Note: Do NOT connect the magnets in series with each other.  

 

 

In addition to the tester shown above, GM has recently released a new trailer simulator tool, P/N EL-52641, shown below. When this tester is connected to the truck, the DIC will display "Trailer Connected" and GDS2 will show "Electro-Hydraulic" brakes in the CCM/BSCM data parameter "Trailer Brake Type". If so, the vehicle can be driven to see if any fault messages or DTCs set. If none occur with the tester installed, the truck is operating correctly and the focus should be on the trailer wiring or 7 way connector.

 

If, after using either of the two tester shown above and the truck functions properly, you may follow the diagnostic tips listed below to help diagnose a trailer related issue.  Trailer issues are NOT covered under warranty, but this information listed below can be used to help the customer/trailer supplier understand and correct any trailer related issues if they so choose.

DIC Message/ DTCs 

It is important to understand and determine what message is being displayed, as well as, if DTC C1114 is setting.  This will help determine what type of fault to inspect for on the trailer.  Below is the combinations of message(s)/DTC to determine the type of fault the customer is experiencing:  

  • Check Trailer Wiring message with no DTC.  This symptom is caused after the system detects a trailer and an open and/or high resistance occurs in circuit 47/trailer brake output circuit, during the same ignition cycle. 

    Note: It is normal for the DIC to display "Check Trailer Wiring" when the trailer is disconnected from the truck while the ignition is in the run position.

  • Check Trailer Wiring message with DTC C1114 (NO Service Trailer Brake message).  This symptom is caused by a short to ground on circuit 47.
  • Service Trailer Brake System with DTC C1114.  This symptom is caused by a short to power on circuit 47 or a poor trailer ground.  

GDS2 Data

GDS2 (scan tool) can be used to view several different data parameters in the CCM/BSCM for the trailer brake system.  The Trailer Brake Type and Trailer Brake Control Output Circuit parameters listed below can be helpful to make sure the CCM/BSCM is detecting the correct trailer brake system in addition to which type of fault it has detected.   

To view "Trailer Brake Type" build GDS2 as follows: CCM/BSCM->Data Display -> parameter "Trailer Brake Type":  "Electro-magnetic",  "Electro-over hydraulic brakes", or "Undefined" (this is displayed with no trailer connected). Example, shown below is a trailer equipped with electromagnetic trailer brakes. 

 

To view "Trailer Brake Control Output Circuit"  47 faults, build GDS2 as follows: CCM/BSCM->Data Display -> parameter "Trailer Brake Control Output Circuit": Okay, Short to Ground, Short to Power, or Unknown.  Example, shown below is a trailer with a short to ground on the trailer brake circuit.

 

1.  Trailer Brake Type Parameter

When the trailer is connected, this parameter should be used to make sure the CCM/BSCM has detected the correct type of trailer brakes.  If the CCM/BSCM is detecting the wrong type of trailer brakes, here are several examples that could cause this:

  • Refer to the "Trailer Issues" section below items 4 and/or 5.
  • A trailer equipped with electromagnetic brakes on only one axle (meaning there is only one pair of magnets) could have a fault with one of the two magnets causing the CCM/BSCM to detect the wrong trailer brake type.   

2.  Trailer Brake Control Output Circuit Parameter

When the trailer is connected, this parameter can be used to help determine what type of fault the system has detected on circuit 47, which could lie within the truck or trailer.

Sample Wiring Diagram

Below is an example of the truck's trailer brake system with the two main circuits that interface with the trailer brake system circled.

Note: As always, use SI to look up the latest wiring diagrams for the vehicle being worked on.

 

Trailer Issues

1.  The most likely reason for many of these issues is a poor/loose connection between the truck and trailer 7-way connector.

-  It is recommended to use a "Pollak HD" RV trailer connector, as shown in the latest version of PIT5311.  Pollak is the OEM manufacturer of the truck's 7-way connector.  By using a Pollak trailer connector, this will provide the best connection possible.

- For Model Year 2014 to 2018 ONLY -Engineering has released an updated truck-side trailer connector that incorporates a stronger door/cover spring.  This helps to ensure a secure connection between the trailer connector and the truck connector.  If the trailer connector is not being retained securely, replace the truck-side trailer connector with the updated GM part number 23404450, which has the stronger door/cover spring.

2.  Shown below is an example of a 5th wheel trailer where the trailer harness has been routed over the top of the tailgate and plugged into the truck's bumper connector.   While driving down the road, the trailer's wiring harness will bounce up and down (A), causing the trailer's 7-way connector to lose connection (B) with the truck.  The fix in this case was to add the 5th wheel/camper wiring harness and route the 7-way connector's harness inside the box of the truck, as shown (C).  

Note: This same concern can also happen with bumper pull trailers if there is an excessive length of harness.  Securing the excessive trailer harness and installing the Pollak HD RV trailer connector per PIT5311 will help.

 

3.  Poor trailer wiring connections, as shown below.  General Motors does not recommend these type of connections, but many trailers utilize these connections.  These type of connections are not robust and are not recommended, especially for brake wiring.

 

 

4.  Trailer electronic sway control devices. Some trailers may be equipped with electronic sway control devices, like the example shown below. These devices can apply the trailer’s brakes to control trailer sway.   These trailer mounted devices could potentially interfere with the functionality of the factory trailer brake controller resulting in reduced trailer brake performance, or even loss of trailer brakes. Depending on the brand of the sway control device, the following behaviors might be observed:

In some cases, when the trailer mounted sway module activates, it could cause the vehicle to set DTC C1114, and display the “Service Trailer Brake System” message on the DIC. This could be an indication that the trailer brakes are no longer functioning.

In other cases, when the trailer mounted sway module activates, the vehicle could display the “trailer disconnected” message, indicating that trailer brakes are no longer available. Then, when the sway module ceases to activate, the “trailer detected” message might be displayed which could indicate that the trailer brakes were available again.

Some trailer mounted sway control devices could also affect the vehicle’s ability to correctly differentiate between electric or electric/hydraulic trailer brakes.

Before towing a trailer equipped with an electronic sway control device, the customer should contact the device's manufacturer to be sure it is compatible with the GM vehicle.  

Note: If a trailer sways this is likely caused by improper loading of the trailer, refer to the owners manual for more information.

 

Posted
Quote

Conditions for Setting the DTC

C111B 03

The trailer brake power control module detects a voltage below a calibrated threshold on the battery positive voltage circuit.

C111B 07

The trailer brake power control module detects a voltage above a calibrated threshold on the battery positive voltage circuit.

C111B 5A

The trailer brake power control module monitors the battery positive voltage circuit.

C1595 00

The trailer brake power control module detects a short to ground, open or a short to voltage on the trailer brake control signal circuit.

C1596 01

The trailer brake power control module detects a short to voltage in the trailer brake enable signal circuit.

C1596 02

The trailer brake power control module detects a short to ground or an open in the trailer brake enable signal circuit.

C1114 00

The trailer brake power control module detects a short to ground, open, a short to voltage or a plausibility failure on the trailer brake output circuit.

For symptom byte information, refer to Symptom Byte List

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

C111B 03, C111B 07, C111B 5A

  • The trailer brakes will be disabled as long as the fault is present.
  • The driver information center (DIC) will display a Service Trailer Brake System message as long as the fault is present.

C1114 00, C1595 00, C1595 01, C1595 02, C1596 01, C1596 02

  • The trailer brakes will be disabled for the remainder of the ignition cycle.
  • The DIC will display a Service Trailer Brake System message for the remainder of the ignition cycle.

Condition for Clearing the DTC

  • The conditions for setting the DTC are no longer present.
  • The trailer brake power control module clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 40 consecutive drive cycles.

Diagnostic Aids

  • The procedures used in this document are written to diagnose a concern with the customer’s vehicle with no trailer connected. A concern with the customer’s trailer may be the actual cause for a DTC setting or a circuit fault.
  • Some customers may experience an intermittent “Check Trailer Wiring” message and/or a “Service Trailer Brake” message with DTC C1114. These concerns may be caused by a poor connection at the 7–way trailer connector. There are several manufacturers of 7–way (trailer side) connectors and many do not comply with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) standard specifications. Some 7–way (trailer side) connector plugs may not properly engage the truck’s 7–way connector socket and cause open circuits. Also, they may cause deformation and excessive wear of the terminals on the truck’s 7–way connector socket. Over time, this will lead to poor terminal tension between the 7–way (trailer side) connector plug and the truck’s 7–way connector socket. Since the trailer brake control module is always monitoring the vehicle and trailer circuits/components, a poor connection at the 7–way connector may cause a “Check Trailer Wiring” message on the driver information center.
  • Engineering has recommended the use of Pollak Heavy Duty 7–way (trailer side) connector plugs. Pollak is the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) of the truck’s 7–way connector socket. The use of a Pollak Heavy Duty 7–way (trailer side) connector plug will ensure proper fit when the two connectors are mated.
  • If the truck’s 7–way connector socket terminals are deformed or have excessive wear, it will be necessary to replace the truck side connector (use Genuine GM Parts) along with the trailer’s 7–way connector plug using Pollak HD connector plugs.
  • Refer to PIT5311 for additional information.

Reference Information

Schematic Reference

Trailer Brake Control Schematics

Connector End View Reference

 

Master Electrical Component List

Description and Operation

 

Trailer Brake Controls Description and Operation

Electrical Information Reference

Scan Tool Reference

 

Control Module References for scan tool information

Circuit/System Verification

  1. Ignition ON.
  2. Verify that DTCs U1505, U1556, U2504, P2534, P2535, or any other communication DTCs are not set.  
    • If none of these DTCs are set

  3. Verify the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed in the driver information center
    • If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed and the customer’s trailer is connected to the vehicle
     
    1. Disconnect the customer’s trailer.
    2. Verify the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed in the driver information center.
      • If the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed after disconnecting the customer’s trailer, the circuit fault causing the DTC to set is located in the customer’s trailer wiring harness. This is not diagnosed in service information, nor is it covered by GM warranty.
       
      • If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed after disconnecting the customer’s trailer

    3. Refer to Circuit/System Testing.
     
    • If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed and the customer’s trailer is not connected to the vehicle
      Refer to Circuit/System Testing.
     
    • If the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed and the customer’s trailer is available

  4. Verify the customer’s trailer connection is recognized with a Trailer Connected message in the driver information center.
    • If the Trailer Connected message is not displayed when the customer’s trailer is connected to the vehicle
      Refer to Circuit/System Testing.
     
    • If the Trailer Connected message is displayed when the customer’s trailer is connected to the vehicle

  5. All OK.

Circuit/System Testing

Note:
  • You must perform the Circuit/System Verification before proceeding with the Circuit/System Testing.
  • The following diagnostic procedure is for factory installed components and wiring on the customer’s vehicle. It will not diagnose a concern with the components and wiring on the customer’s trailer.
  • The following diagnostic procedure is based on not having a trailer connected to the vehicle.
  • Refer to PIT5311 for additional information before using this diagnostic procedure.
  1. Ignition OFF and all vehicle systems OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module. It may take up to 2 min for all vehicle systems to power down.
  2. Test for less than 10 Ω between the ground circuit terminal 9 and ground.
    • If 10 Ω or greater
     
    1. Ignition OFF.
    2. Test for less than 2 Ω in the ground circuit end to end.
      • If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit.
      • If less than 2 Ω, repair the open/high resistance in the ground connection.


    3.  
     
    • If less than 10 Ω

  3. Ignition ON.
  4. Verify a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal 1 and ground.
    • If the test lamp does not illuminate and the circuit fuse is good.
     
    1. Ignition OFF, remove the test lamp.
    2. Test for less than 2 Ω in the B+ circuit end to end.
      • If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit.
      • If less than 2 Ω, verify the fuse is not open and there is voltage at the fuse.


    3.  
     
    • If the test lamp does not illuminate and the circuit fuse is open
     
    1. Ignition OFF, remove the test lamp.
    2. Test for infinite resistance between the B+ circuit and ground.
      • If less than infinite resistance, repair the short to ground on the circuit.
      • If infinite resistance, replace the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module.


    3.  
     
    • If the test lamp illuminates

  5. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connectors at the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary and S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch, ignition ON.
  6. Test for less than 1 V between the signal circuit terminals listed below and ground:
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 2
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 5
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 8
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 12
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 14 (if equipped with this wire)
     
    • If 1 V or greater
      Repair the short to voltage on the circuit.
     
    • If less than 1 V

  7. Ignition OFF.
  8. Test for infinite resistance between the signal circuit terminals listed below and ground:
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 2
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 5
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 8
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 12
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 14 (if equipped with this wire)
     
    • If less than infinite resistance
      Repair the short to ground on the circuit.
     
    • If infinite resistance

  9. Test for less than 2 Ω between the signal circuit terminals listed below:
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 2 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 23
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 5 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 22
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 12 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 30
    • K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 14 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 17 (if equipped with this wire)
     
    • If 2 Ω or greater
      Repair the open/high resistance in the circuit.
     
    • If less than 2 Ω

  10. Test for less than 2 Ω between the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module signal circuit terminal 8 and the Electric Brakes terminal in the trailer brake harness connector in the rear bumper. Refer to the diagram on the trailer brake harness connector cover for the terminal location.
    • If 2 Ω or greater
      Repair the open/high resistance in the circuit.
     
    • If less than 2 Ω

  11. Test or replace the K133 Trailer Brake Power Control Module.
  12. Verify the DTC does not set while operating the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC.
    • If the DTC sets
      Replace the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary.
     
    • If the DTC does not set

  13. All OK.

 

Posted (edited)

Update:

Put a 9000lb load on a 2500lb trailer and hit the road. All way good for the first few brake applications and then all of a sudden no brakes again. Exact same issue as before. It was working fine for the last few trips. Something is either failing that switch or have a major coincidence that after replacing it that it worked for the next 1000kms pulling just fine. 
Mechanic told me that it might just be the intelligence of the truck that it dials the braking back. 
Yes, GM has it programmed to turn the braking effort right down while towing. I just rolled my eyes. 
I said today that I cant drive this truck being it is unsafe to tow with. 
I left it with the trailer and load at the dealership today. 

Edited by Chadw90
Posted

I got a call from the dealer today asking if I still have the 2024 GMC that I bought there. I replied yes and he told me that there is a recall for the trailer brake control module. Since I still have the truck, he was going to order the part and let me know when it arrives. 

 

I ordered the truck at their dealership in Oct 23 and picked it up after prep Jan 18, 2024. I just had it their service department this past Monday, July 15, for the second oil change and first tire rotation. Maybe some people trade or sell their trucks with 6700 miles on them!! 

 

I just checked the myGMC app for recalls and the Intermittent Loss of Trailer Brakes recall is on there. Release date: 7/16/2024, the day after I was there. I'm happy they informed me of the recall. I only tow a boat with surge brakes and a utility trailer with no brakes. Ya never know if someone wants me to tow something with electric brakes. 

Posted

rjgvt,

 

Coincidently, I was in the dealers today getting the tailgate switch recall taken care of, and purchased a Brake Controller switch for my issue, while I was there. Can you advise if the recall you spoke of is for the '24s only and/or what site I can visit to view the recall notice you speak of?

 

Marv

 

 

Posted (edited)

I just got the recall alert as well. Looks like 2023 and 2024 years are affected. I have attached a pic of the recall. Hope this helps.

IMG_6256.png

Edited by 1fast ss
Updated information
Posted
1 hour ago, marpel said:

rjgvt,

 

Coincidently, I was in the dealers today getting the tailgate switch recall taken care of, and purchased a Brake Controller switch for my issue, while I was there. Can you advise if the recall you spoke of is for the '24s only and/or what site I can visit to view the recall notice you speak of?

 

Marv

 

 


My recall is the same as Mickey’s.

Posted

1fast ss and rjgvt,

 

Thanks for the response.

 

Weird that the recall only refers to specific intermittent truck years and not ie 20-24. And, also weird that when setting up the Gain (with a just-topped up trailer battery) there was no braking even at Gain 10, and prior to the last trip of last year (again fully topped up trailer battery), again no brakes, however after a number of days during that trip, I noticed a slight improvement in the braking (perhaps trailer battery not as fully charged?). These were when applying the truck brake pedal, but I could get better brake action if using the manual application to the controller.

 

I had a fleeting thought of showing the service rep this recall notice, but as I was recently told when I had exact same squealing brakes that is subject of a GM Recall (same make/model/year) "If you are not on the GM Recall Notice list, we ain't talking to you" (my paraphrase). So, it will be useless for this issue as well, I expect.

 

Marv

Posted

I was having the "trailer brakes disabled service required" messages along with check various lights not working message even though the lights were actually working just fine.  Just had my Brake control module replaced this am at the dealer.  they found several trailer codes, hopefully this fixes the issues.  I have EOH brakes on a boat trailer.  no solar chargers,  just the battery for emergency breakaway brakes.

 

CHECK TRAILER BRAKE 2210300 1.30 SCANNED COMPUTER AND FOUND CODES C1114, B1B56, B1B57 AND B1B83. INSTALLED TRAILER BRAKE TESTING MODULE AND FOUND B1883 RETURNED. GAINED ACCESS TO TRAILER BRAKE CONTROL MODULE AND DRAG TESTED MODULE. FOUND PINS DRAG TEST ок. REPLACED MODULE AND CLEARED CODES. TESTED WITH TRAILER BRAKE MODULE AND OK AT THIS TIME.

 

1 85073615 (S) MODULE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 621 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...