Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys,  I'm trying to change the  look of my truck a bit and came across this 2019 carbonpro. Looks like it's running 33s on 20" wheels, but would appreciate anyone correcting or confirming me. other thing is, one buddy thinks this is a stock AT4 lift on 33s. Other one thinks it looks taller than the stock AT4s that GM puts out, mainly because those are running 18" wheels and they don't look like they have this kind of clearance. What do the pros think? 

6A679974-F6B6-46C9-8EAC-F53EEEB92E23.jpeg

B036637E-BD77-4F88-AD39-AA5A1F7F1526.jpeg

A5E66A06-4ED3-483C-882D-318D9BC4AA8B.jpeg

Posted

If you zoom in on the front tire you can see the Ready Lift UCA.  My guess is it is the 2" SST which has 2" in the front and adds another 1" in the back with a 3" replacing the stock 2" block.  I say that because the back looks higher to me.  Or it could just be the Ready LIft 1.75" leveling kit.

Posted

Good eye.  It does have the ready lift UCAs.  Look like 33 12.50 20 on the tire, glancing at the pic can you tell what offset (if any?)

 

I've been looking at the fuel siege 20x9 w/ +1 offset to get a little bit of a wider stance on the truck.  This truck looks more like a -18 or more.  Any ideas on the offset?

Posted

If you want wider you can go 20x10 -12mm offset. I have a set of LRG Rims on my truck in that size. I had to add a 5 mm spacer to clear the caliper bump so it's actually -17 offset. I'm running 275/60/20 on a stock Trail Boss. I had a set of 275/65/20 for a couple days and it rubbed on both sides on the felt of the rear part of the fenderwell.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, GETGONE said:

If you want wider you can go 20x10 -12mm offset. I have a set of LRG Rims on my truck in that size. I had to add a 5 mm spacer to clear the caliper bump so it's actually -17 offset. I'm running 275/60/20 on a stock Trail Boss. I had a set of 275/65/20 for a couple days and it rubbed on both sides on the felt of the rear part of the fenderwell.

Ok, thanks - good option.  That's a tiny spacer, was it hub centric and do you remember what brand you went with?  

Posted

Not hubcentric. They are billet ones with exact bolt patterns on ebay. They have 6x137.9 and 6x135(Ford pattern) both. They are way better than the cast slip fit White Knight brand I had picked up from AutoZone as a temporary pair to get the wheels on.

Posted (edited)

I put the Readylift SST 4" (comes with 3" rear blocks) on a custom and I sit about 2" taller up front than at4/trail boss and about 1" taller in the rear, I've parked beside several and noted the mirror height difference and box height difference. I've posted some pics here about it, maybe under my 4" readylift post? Anyhow, it's looking like that could be the end result of that trucks lift? https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/258291-4”-lift-vs-factory-2”-lift-side-by-side-pics/#comment-2592445 41.5" to finder lips all way round on 33's so if you can measure that truck it might tell you more? Although gmc fenders a bit different than my chevy fenders. I had to shorten my antenna by 6 3/8" to go under 7' garage frame. Keep in mind if you wanna fit in garages and 7' parkades, pretty sure you're not going under anything less.

 

Edited by 4banger

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...