Jump to content

1995 Silverado no start troubleshooting

Chris Fontenot
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris Fontenot New Member

Chris Fontenot

Posted
Posted

Background: I took the truck out for a drive one day and during normal driving it suddenly "let go." The truck was still running and I was able to rev the engine but it wasn't sending power to the wheels. I tried moving the shifter from neutral to drive and that did nothing. I coasted to a stop sign, pulled to the side, and turned it off. When I went to restart the truck it simply wouldn't. The starter fired but the engine itself wasn't turning. Popped the hood and tried to start again, starter spun but I could see via the serpentine belt that the engine itself wasn't turning over.

Once I towed the truck home I started going through some troubleshooting steps. So far I have changed the battery, the starter (and solenoid), and the transmission range sensor and nothing has changed. Go to crank it up and I get noise from the starter but nothing from the engine. Can anyone help me diagnose this issue from afar or would I be better off having it towed to a shop?

Thanks in advance.

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like the flywheel is broken. It can be replaced without completely removing the transmission by unbolting the bell housing , torque converter and trans mount and letting the engine and trans kinda hinge  down from the weight then using a low clearance ratchet and socket (Snap-On) remove the flywheel

Edited by richard wysong
richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

Oh yeah, Welcome to the forum! if the flywheel isn't broken then the crankshaft probably is. never seen it happen to a Chevy but have seen it .  What engine, model, 2 or 4 wd? more info is always better

It's Tim Senior Enthusiast

It's Tim

Posted
Posted
52 minutes ago, Chris Fontenot said:

Background: I took the truck out for a drive one day and during normal driving it suddenly "let go." The truck was still running and I was able to rev the engine but it wasn't sending power to the wheels. I tried moving the shifter from neutral to drive and that did nothing. I coasted to a stop sign, pulled to the side, and turned it off. When I went to restart the truck it simply wouldn't. The starter fired but the engine itself wasn't turning. Popped the hood and tried to start again, starter spun but I could see via the serpentine belt that the engine itself wasn't turning over.

Once I towed the truck home I started going through some troubleshooting steps. So far I have changed the battery, the starter (and solenoid), and the transmission range sensor and nothing has changed. Go to crank it up and I get noise from the starter but nothing from the engine. Can anyone help me diagnose this issue from afar or would I be better off having it towed to a shop?

Thanks in advance.

b. Towed to a shop.

  • Haha 1
Chris Fontenot New Member

Chris Fontenot

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

Oh yeah, Welcome to the forum! if the flywheel isn't broken then the crankshaft probably is. never seen it happen to a Chevy but have seen it .  What engine, model, 2 or 4 wd? more info is always better

Thanks Richard! It's a 2wd with the V8. I'm not sure of the actual engine size, my wife and I inherited the truck and I'm typically a Toyota guy. The guy at O'reilly just said "350" so I think its the 5.7?

 

Oh, and it's an automatic if that helps.

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

2wd will  make a flywheel job easier, if you do indeed need a flywheel then you will need to know what engine etc to get the correct part there are lots of different part numbers for the same engines for some reason, I always use NAPA as most stores have knowledgeable counter help and can get almost any part for you quickly.. Have the VIN when buying parts. Was it making weird noises when it broke? Flywheels usually crack long before failing and make noise before breaking

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

Too bad you fired the parts cannon so early. Diagnosing the problem is ALWAYS the first step before buying parts , always ask if you don't know

Chris Fontenot New Member

Chris Fontenot

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

Too bad you fired the parts cannon so early. Diagnosing the problem is ALWAYS the first step before buying parts , always ask if you don't know

What was weird about it was there were no noises before it happened, or even after. I even looked in the housing when I changed the starter and saw what appeared to be an intact flywheel. No shards, splits, or missing teeth that was able to see from my less than advantageous point of view.

 

Luckily the starter and sensor weren't very expensive, maybe $100 total, and I see both of those as preventative maintenance anyway.

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

Yep, if it is broken it is probably around the crankshaft bolts, may be difficult to actually see but you should be able to determine by turning the flywheel and seeing if it turns the crankshaft

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      Anyone have any info about backorder time? It's classic 4th of July hot here in ohio.
    • Chuck FB
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • Z45
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Z45 · Posted

      I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • MORSNO
      Oil Consumption

      By MORSNO · Posted

      This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...