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My 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 4X4 Complete Brake Rebuild

Grubbworm
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Grubbworm Enthusiast

Grubbworm

Posted
Posted

I am going to do a complete brake rebuild on my truck. We have been towing a motorhome for several years now and feel that it is time to do a complete brake overhaul. I would like to be pro-active since the truck has over 170,000 miles on it and we do not know when any of the parts were previously replaced and with what quality. I am going to put a Power Stop Kit #KC207336 on it. I am also going to replace the Brake hoses with some AC Delco ones. I will also replace the rear parking brake shoes and hardware with Power Stop #B771 shoes and Dynamic Friction #37048001. I will also flush the brake fluid and use some 5.1 synthetic Bosch fluid. I am getting all parts from Rock Auto. I will re-visit this post with updates and pictures when I get everything and get started.

David89GMC Enthusiast

David89GMC

Posted
Posted

I'd suggest sticking with stock replacement parts from AC Delco, and use ONLY AC Delco brake fluid. You might also get Russel Speed Bleaders.

 

Keep in mind that PowerStop products are made in China. I wouldn't go near that junk. If you need red calipers, get some GM Victory Red and spray away.

 

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

image.png.22097f30de07c96c9a3370ec976b574d.png

image.thumb.png.ae182398a154bf793800c2546b59bd41.png

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, David89GMC said:

I'd suggest sticking with stock replacement parts from AC Delco, and use ONLY AC Delco brake fluid. You might also get Russel Speed Bleaders.

 

Keep in mind that PowerStop products are made in China. I wouldn't go near that junk. If you need red calipers, get some GM Victory Red and spray away.

 

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

image.png.22097f30de07c96c9a3370ec976b574d.png

image.thumb.png.ae182398a154bf793800c2546b59bd41.png

 

 

...The AC Delco stuff is made in China too...Professional Gold and Advantage Silver are all manufactured by Brake Parts Inc. who owns and manufactures the Raybestos brand.  Prior to that it was Affinia Group Inc who owned Raybestos and who manufactured the ACDelco Professional/Gold and Advantage/Silver line.  

 

The OEM (which is labeled GM or ACDelco OE) "might" be Mexico, probably will be China and would be made by the OEM brake supplier most likely so TRW, Brembo, Akebono, etc.  

C/K Man Enthusiast

C/K Man

Posted
Posted (edited)

In my opinion Akebono pads are the best,  They have been OEM on HD's since 2011, made in the U.S., last long, relatively quiet, and don't make too much dust.  Akebono merged with Delco Moraine Brake many years ago.   With rotors there are not many ways to avoid Chinese imports (though some are decent quality) except OEM at the dealer (GM long number, expensive!) or NAPA Premium Fleet, which are usually made in Brazil.  I work for a large fleet and we use Akebono pads and NAPA Fleet rotors on all the GM and Ford HD pickups.  The NAPA Premuim Fleet rotors have part numbers starting with 'FT'.  As for brake fluid, DOT 3 is recommended for your truck.  Other DOT numbers like 5 could have a different viscosity than DOT 3 and may make your ABS act funny, so be sure to research. 

Edited by C/K Man
davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

For brake fluid, you need to watch mixing and matching types.  There are 4 (DOT 3, 4, 5, 5.1), some of which can be mixed, some which will wreck your seals, and some, if mixed will turn to sludge and be an expensive job getting it cleaned out.  I highly recommend sticking with DOT 3.

  • Like 1
Grubbworm Enthusiast

Grubbworm

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I replaced all of the brake parts this weekend (Pads, Calipers, Caliper Brackets, Rotors, and Hoses). I did not need any of the parking brakes or hardware. Those looked like new. I just cleaned them up and attempted to adjust them. I also bled the brakes. It appears that there is still some air in the system and I will need to bleed them again. I will also need to adjust the parking brakes more. I may also need to check the parking brake cable for any wear issues or adjustments. The NEW rotors are just as thick and heavy as the ones that were on there. The NEW caliper pistons looked to be slightly larger than the old OEM ones. The old rotors look like they could be turned and still have life in them. The old pads had half life left on them. Everything but the old pads looked to be OEM original. The truck has about 180,000 miles on it. I got it with about 160,000 miles on it. All that I know about it is that it was a work/fleet truck for the local EMC company. We do towing and 4-wheeling with this vehicle so I figured it was time for some maintenance and an upgrade.

Adjusting the passenger rear parking brake is a real pain. I will need to buy another short to medium screwdriver or maybe a brake spoon to adjust that side. The adjustment hole is at the top and the leaf springs are in the way. I see no leaks and other than some adjustments everything seems to be working fine.

Drivers Front Before.jpg

Drivers Front After.jpg

Passenger Rear Before.jpg

Passenger Rear After.jpg

Passenger Front Before.jpg

Passenger Front After.jpg

Drivers Rear After.jpg

Edited by Grubbworm
davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Yes, adjusting that one side sucks.  It's worse on my '04 3500, as it's a cab&chassis with a narrower rear end, so it's even nearer the spring pack.  I use a custom-bent spoon, a mirror and a light to do it, after pre-adjusting it near to size by putting the hub on/checking/taking it off/adjusting the brakes/repeating, then putting on a new inner seal in the hub and installing it for real.

Grubbworm Enthusiast

Grubbworm

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It does suck to spin it the wrong way. But it is as adjusted as it is going to be for right now. I have everything done and it rides and stops good. My wife wants me to clean out the master cylinder and fill and flush again with all new fluid. I guess that is another project for another day soon. It looks like I have issues with some broken exhaust manifold bolts too. And yet another project.

Edited by Grubbworm
davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

I would suggest getting a pressure bleeder, like the one from Motive, works well and it take no time to flush the brake system.  Just if you get the system with the cheaper plastic cap, keep the pressure lower, like below 15 psi...

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Grubbworm Enthusiast

Grubbworm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Brakes are done. Cleaned out the master cylinder the best I could. Changed and bled all brake fluid. Adjusted the parking brakes. Everything works great now. Now on to the next project.

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