Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Preparing to change oil now that my truck is reaching 500 miles.  I do plan on towing (TT, boat).

 

For those of you that use M1, which flavor do you prefer and why?

 

I read that the Truck/SUV flavor is for towing.  the ESP is rated for 20K miles.

 

I plan on severe duty OCI (approx. half of regular OCI  which is 7500mi). 

 

All three of these flavors meet the GM recs of...Dexos 1-Gen 3

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Edited by SoCal Angler
Posted
26 minutes ago, SoCal Angler said:

Preparing to change oil now that I my truck is reaching 500 miles.  I do plan on towing.

 

For those of you that use M1, which flavor do you prefer and why?

 

I read that for Truck/SUV flavor is for towing. 

 

All three of these meet the GM recs of...Dexos 1-Gen 3

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

"Truck & SUV" = Marketing.

 

It's got a slightly stronger additive package.  10% more additives vs. regular Mobil 1.  

Posted
2 hours ago, SoCal Angler said:

Preparing to change oil now that I my truck is reaching 500 miles.  I do plan on towing.

 

For those of you that use M1, which flavor do you prefer and why?

 

I read that for Truck/SUV flavor is for towing. 

 

All three of these meet the GM recs of...Dexos 1-Gen 3

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

All of these are good to go. I just used truck and suv for the first oil change in my 24’ HD. I plan on sticking with truck and suv unless I can’t find it, then I’d be good with “vanilla” Mobil 1. 

Posted

I'm new at this oil selection/analysis, as I have not purchased a new truck in many years, but...

 

After doing some reading on the subject, I believe it's probably more important to determine best OCI schedule based on oil analysis, then go with the oil flavor that delivers the best results.

 

I would like to know more about oil analysis....

  • At what mileage should analysis begin (considering a new truck)?
  • At what mileage intervals?
  • What key components are important to monitor in an analysis?
  • Is there a "break in" mileage that is used as a base line when beginning an analysis to determine best OCI?
  • How many analyses are needed to determine a base line?
  • Since there are variables in miles accumulated between analyses (towing, not towing, city, hwy, etc), how is the OCI determined based on these varying analyses?

 

Now, since I'll be changing oil at 500 miles, and say I'm using the M1 AFS....

 

1.  Would an oil analysis be worthy at 500miles?

 

2.  What would be the analysis schedule/interval to ultimately determine best OCI?

 

Perhaps I'm way overthinking this....

Posted (edited)

Since no one chimed in.....

 

Wear is high initially. BEST ring seal is not instant. Meaning blow by is higher and yet normal. This eats up acid add packs more rapidly than it will in the near future. Also means wear metals will be higher now than any time before late stage wear out OR failure. Fuel dilution will also be higher until rings seal up a bit. 500 miles is a great first change. 

 

In my stuff I do another at 1,500 and 2,500 and then 5,000. Or 1K, 1K and 2.5K. At 5K run two samples. One on the new oil and the other on the used. The first is the benchmark for the second. 

 

In these early samples I'm looking for a few things. Initial new TBN vs used TBN and TAN new vs used. And I'm looking at 'stay in grade" on the 100C/212F viscosity. I will note other items such as fuel dilution and wear metals. 

 

If you cheap out and run only TBN then OCI is set between 50% depletion from new. If you really cheap out and run ONLY the UOA, then a 4 TBN is the basement. IF you run both with TAN and TBN then don't let the TBN fall below the TBN. 

 

Pay attention to the 100C viscosity. If it falls a below the grades minimum value, look at the fuel dilution. If over 2.5% the cause could be a fuel or spark issue. If the fuels are 2.5% or lower find a new oil. This one sheared out the cheap VII package.

 

I see this motor calls for a 5W30. IMHO, a 10 cSt 100C viscosity is a must. 

 

FOLLOW THE BOOK recommendations for towing during the break-in and check those differentials early for proper fill. 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Thanks 1
Posted
15 hours ago, SoCal Angler said:

I'm new at this oil selection/analysis, as I have not purchased a new truck in many years, but...

 

After doing some reading on the subject, I believe it's probably more important to determine best OCI schedule based on oil analysis, then go with the oil flavor that delivers the best results.

 

I would like to know more about oil analysis....

  • At what mileage should analysis begin (considering a new truck)?
  • At what mileage intervals?
  • What key components are important to monitor in an analysis?
  • Is there a "break in" mileage that is used as a base line when beginning an analysis to determine best OCI?
  • How many analyses are needed to determine a base line?
  • Since there are variables in miles accumulated between analyses (towing, not towing, city, hwy, etc), how is the OCI determined based on these varying analyses?

 

Now, since I'll be changing oil at 500 miles, and say I'm using the M1 AFS....

 

1.  Would an oil analysis be worthy at 500miles?

 

2.  What would be the analysis schedule/interval to ultimately determine best OCI?

 

Perhaps I'm way overthinking this....

You are likely to get different recommendations from every response. I am not an expert, nor do I claim to be. I can only speak from my experience and research along with I believe has worked for me so far. 
 

I do the first oil change at 1000 miles (I don’t see anything wrong with 500 though). Then I change it again at 5000 miles. From there forward, I change it every 5000 miles. 
 

I generally won’t consider UOAs until I am at 15,000 miles. At this point it seems that everything is beginning to  settle down after break in. I typically will do UOA from 2-3 oil changes to get a solid baseline. A lot will depend on your conditions and use. I’ve always been ok with the results that I get from these 5,000 mile OCIs. I have no interest in extend drain intervals. After I establish a baseline I will send off for UOA every 20,000 miles for condition checks. 
 

Once again, YMMV. This is what I am comfortable and confident with. You are probably right, all of us involved in conversation like this is way overthinking it. Few take the time for any type of analysis, yet we don’t see cars sitting everywhere with blown engines. I have always taken care of my vehicles, but have only gotten more ****** about it with age. I never did any analysis on my Silverado that I traded with almost 400k miles on the clock, or a couple of F250s that were pushing 300k when they were sold. All vehicles just received routine maintenance with quality products. 

Posted (edited)
On 8/31/2023 at 9:43 AM, SoCal Angler said:

Preparing to change oil now that my truck is reaching 500 miles.  I do plan on towing (TT, boat).

 

For those of you that use M1, which flavor do you prefer and why?

 

I read that the Truck/SUV flavor is for towing.  the ESP is rated for 20K miles.

 

I plan on severe duty OCI (approx. half of regular OCI  which is 7500mi). 

 

All three of these flavors meet the GM recs of...Dexos 1-Gen 3

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

I would run Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 or 10w30.  Don't be concerned with TBN.  It's not considered a valid test by GM or Cummins.   Get the oil tested for oxidation instead.  

Edited by TunaFresh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 5,695 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...