Jump to content

Tires

05 1500HD

By 05 1500HD
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

05 1500HD Enthusiast

05 1500HD

Posted
Posted

I’m getting ready to have to purchase tires. I’m still on the stock 275/55/20 on stock LTZ 20” wheels. I’ve got a 2” RC under strut leveling kit for be got to install. I would like to run 33x12.50x20 if they will fit or the biggest I can without too much rubbing. This is probably a strange question but here goes:

 

what are some good tires that you can hear on the road. I’ve been running Michelin ltx defender since I got the truck(already on it when I bought it in 2018). So these have basically been silent. I first thought about Nitto Trail Grappler or Cooper STT pro tires. I’ve thrown the option and looked at reviews on the nitto mud grapps. I like the loudness of them but I’m not sure if it would get old after a while or it would be too much for my wife and kids. lol. 
 

let me know what y’all think. I definitely want an aggressive looking tire. 

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Although the RC 2" level kit is fairly economical way to get more height in front, wait until it's time to change the struts and see how economical it really was. I know because I had to deal with removing my set to change out the struts. IMHO, you may consider spending a few more dollars and going the Bilstein route. I went with Rancho Quick Lifts but it seems like more like the Bilsteins and less complaints...

05 1500HD Enthusiast

05 1500HD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
19 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

Although the RC 2" level kit is fairly economical way to get more height in front, wait until it's time to change the struts and see how economical it really was. I know because I had to deal with removing my set to change out the struts. IMHO, you may consider spending a few more dollars and going the Bilstein route. I went with Rancho Quick Lifts but it seems like more like the Bilsteins and less complaints...


I have thought about that and I think that’s why I’ve waited so long to install it. I’ve been thinking of other options. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
AndrewD Enthusiast

AndrewD

Posted
Posted

I went RC 2". Then I did the RC 3.5" on my 15 z71 because I wanted 35's. You definitely get what you pay for (I also had a friend who was a dealer so I got things at cost). I haven't put 50k on my truck in 6 years and it hasn't held up to mostly paved road driving. If you run a grille guard,bumper, or winch then definitely don't bother with a lifted strut (at least not RC). Mine have settled because I have a Ranch Hand grill guard and a Hidden mount 12k winch. Even w/out any added equipment I would go with a trusted coilover.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...