Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Over the last week I've notice my TPMS sensors for my rear wheels reading wrong.  The right rear has been losing a PSI or two each day, but when I check it with a gauge it's holding steady.  The tires typically read between 35-38 temp depending, but now the right rear is reading 29 on the DIC, but 39 with the gauge.  Left rear is also off by ~5 PSI.  Is there a way to recalibrate the sensors?  Or do I need to relearn the sensors?

Posted
25 minutes ago, Klinger said:

Over the last week I've notice my TPMS sensors for my rear wheels reading wrong.  The right rear has been losing a PSI or two each day, but when I check it with a gauge it's holding steady.  The tires typically read between 35-38 temp depending, but now the right rear is reading 29 on the DIC, but 39 with the gauge.  Left rear is also off by ~5 PSI.  Is there a way to recalibrate the sensors?  Or do I need to relearn the sensors?

How old is the truck or how old are the sensors. They have batteries and don't last forever. The sensors read absolute pressure so elevation will affect the readings (unless you have a high end vehicle). They were never intended to be as good as a good tire pressure gauge, they are there to let you know you have an issue/flat tire.

Posted

My bad, it's a 2021 Silverado LTZ 3.0L.  I have a set on my motorcycle, but when they started failing they just stopped being seen by the head unit.  What I find weird with these is that it's still showing pressure, just significantly lower than whats actually in the tire.

Posted

Dealers and tire shops have a tool to calibrate the sensors. So, try that first and if still off, then it's time to replace them. 

Posted

You have to do a relearn if tires are rotated. Someone else had posted the same thing. The pressure was showing off vs a tire pressure gauge and the dash. A tire shop had rotated them and never re-paired them. I swap mine and do the relearn myself but when checking pressure, I always go by the same tire gauge and don't rely on the dash. They aren't 100% accurate and sometimes lag from when you fill them to when they show the updated pressure on the dash. It's supposed to have a "filled" option that will honk the horn when you fill a low tire and it reaches the proper pressure.

Posted
12 hours ago, Jus Cruisin said:

Dealers and tire shops have a tool to calibrate the sensors. So, try that first and if still off, then it's time to replace them. 

That might be what I have to do.  I don't have the tool to calibrate them.

 

6 hours ago, GETGONE said:

You have to do a relearn if tires are rotated. Someone else had posted the same thing. The pressure was showing off vs a tire pressure gauge and the dash. A tire shop had rotated them and never re-paired them. I swap mine and do the relearn myself but when checking pressure, I always go by the same tire gauge and don't rely on the dash. They aren't 100% accurate and sometimes lag from when you fill them to when they show the updated pressure on the dash. It's supposed to have a "filled" option that will honk the horn when you fill a low tire and it reaches the proper pressure.

I get that they may read different, but its the fact that started show progressively lower and lower without a change in actual pressure at the tire.

Posted

If the tire pressures all show correct with a tire gauge, I wouldn't worry about the sensor unless it's not reading at all and starts throwing a warning light.

Posted

 

On 3/27/2024 at 9:07 PM, GETGONE said:

If the tire pressures all show correct with a tire gauge, I wouldn't worry about the sensor unless it's not reading at all and starts throwing a warning light.

It is starting to show a light sometimes.  I'm not sure if it's because of the delta between that tire and the rest is too great, or if there's a threshold that it dropped below.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...