Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2007 (NBS) Sierra Denali AWD 1500.  160k miles.  In the 100k miles I’ve had the truck, I’ve done a sensor or two, ball joints, cv axles and wheel bearings.  Truck has original (transmission, differentials, drivetrain, etc.) 

 

Around 3 weeks ago I was pulling a 12ft utility trailer, (maybe 1500lbs loaded) and I noticed a weird shake/shimmy starting around 40mph while the truck was under load and with throttle.  Notice it most when truck shifts up, and maintains a lower rpm.  Fast forward to now and it seems to have gotten worse, I am occasionally hearing a little noise that starts around 15, ends around 30, but still the shake @ 40 ish.  The shake gets worse and worse as speed goes up.. BUT ONLY under acceleration.  If I take my foot off the gas, it stops.  
 

I’ve read it could be ujoints, TC, transmission, front end issues (since it’s AWD), rear end issues, sort of all over the map.  
 

I will say this transmission has the clunkiest and clankiest transmission I’ve ever had, but it seems to be hanging on by a thread and it’s been that way the whole time I’ve owned the truck.  This issue doesn’t seem to impact shifting at all, if anything the shake might stop if for only during a moment during the shift itself.  
 

Would appreciate any ideas you have, things to look for.   Going to be hard to put a 4k transmission in a 7k truck, so just trying to see what I can do or should do.  

Posted (edited)

Not u joint related.   Swapped both u joints on main drive shaft and swapped front AWD driveshaft and U joint and the vibration/shimmy hasn’t changed.   I will say my old ujoints were shot, doesn’t really feel like a waste.  

Edited by Omcentarfer
Posted

When it is vibrating, lightly rest your foot on the brake pedal - just enough to turn the brake lights on - while maintaining the level of 'acceleration' you were. 

 

This will cause the torque converter to 'unlock' or cease its attempts to do so.

 

Could also be a miss fire but I would expect a check engine light.

 

Maybe driveshaft is out of balance.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Welp, did both front wheel bearings just for the hell of it… no such luck.  I just feel like it has to be transmission, transfer case or front diff related.  
 

Once the “shutter” starts braking doesn’t stop it, but letting off throttle and it immediately stops. 

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Omcentarfer said:

Once the “shutter” starts braking doesn’t stop it, but letting off throttle and it immediately stops. 

Can you explain this another way? Braking doesn't stop the shutter but letting off the throttle does - are you letting off the throttle when braking? When it is shuttering, do not let off the throttle (to keep it shuttering) and apply the brakes lightly. 

 

Try manually selecting a lower gear, neutral and using tow haul mode. Report any changes.

 

I would not consider the front differential.

 

Can the transfer case be locked in 4 high to bypass any clutch packs of the AWD? I missed the Denali AWD part and don't remember well enough its functions.

 

Try wiggling the output yoke of the transfer case and the input yoke on the rear differential. Confirm there is no carrier bearing and that if there is one it has no play.

 

Check the rear mounts of the transmission/transfer case. 

 

Does it occur at any speed? Any gear? Try loading the bed to squat the rear of the truck to significantly alter the driveshaft angle.

Edited by asilverblazer
Italics area above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,004 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...