Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’m having a reman 6l80 shipped to my works shop for my 2014 Silverado and going to swap it out myself and wondering if it’s a good idea or not to take the techm out of my current trans and toss it in reman so I don’t have to have reman trans programmed to my truck when I’m done and if I shouldn’t do that, will I be able to drive it about 15 min or so to dealer to get it programmed?  Lastly other then rear main seal of engine, what would you guys recommend I swap out or inspect while I have transmission out?

Posted

The TCM has seals and wearable parts, I do not recommend swapping them out.

 

The transmission will not move with a new TCM, you will need it flashed with the correct calibration files before you drive it. So towing it is likely your only option.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, CamGTP said:

The TCM has seals and wearable parts, I do not recommend swapping them out.

 

The transmission will not move with a new TCM, you will need it flashed with the correct calibration files before you drive it. So towing it is likely your only option.

Damn…aight….any other good news? lol

Posted
7 hours ago, BraydenH said:

I’m having a reman 6l80 shipped to my works shop for my 2014 Silverado and going to swap it out myself and wondering if it’s a good idea or not to take the techm out of my current trans and toss it in reman so I don’t have to have reman trans programmed to my truck when I’m done and if I shouldn’t do that, will I be able to drive it about 15 min or so to dealer to get it programmed?  Lastly other then rear main seal of engine, what would you guys recommend I swap out or inspect while I have transmission out?

 

 

Replace the transmission thermal bypass valve if you haven't yet and or do the Surecool kit or pill flip to bring your transmission temps down.  Being you have a 2014 if you still have the original lines you'd have to surecool or pill flip as the updated lower temp TBV requires the 2nd design lines.  So technically you could also replace the transmission lines.

 

Oh, and flush the lines and cooler in case any debris was pumped into them.  

  • Like 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

Replace the transmission thermal bypass valve if you haven't yet and or do the Surecool kit or pill flip to bring your transmission temps down.  Being you have a 2014 if you still have the original lines you'd have to surecool or pill flip as the updated lower temp TBV requires the 2nd design lines.  So technically you could also replace the transmission lines.

 

Oh, and flush the lines and cooler in case any debris was pumped into them.  

100% will do the bypass for cooler temps and was thinking of just running new lines to new cooler and install in front of coolant radiator….thoughts?  I heard it’s near impossible to get all junk out of trans cooler and don’t see it mounted in front of radiator so I’m guessing it’s built into it?

 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, BraydenH said:

100% will do the bypass for cooler temps and was thinking of just running new lines to new cooler and install in front of coolant radiator….thoughts?  I heard it’s near impossible to get all junk out of trans cooler and don’t see it mounted in front of radiator so I’m guessing it’s built into it?

 

 

 

2014 has two cooler sections.  The lines go through the main radiator and then to the aux cooler which is the top 1/5th of the AC condenser.  So if you replace, you'd have to replace the radiator and the AC condenser.  

Edited by newdude
Posted
1 minute ago, newdude said:

 

 

2014 has two cooler sections.  The lines go through the main radiator and then to the aux cooler which is the top 1/5th of the AC condenser.  So if you replace, you'd have to replace the radiator and the AC condenser.  

I couldn’t install an aftermarket cooler with new lines?  The only reason why I was thinking that way is because from what vids I’ve seen, even with the fancy big trans fluid flushing machines they say it’s hard to get all metal out of coolers 

 

Posted
9 minutes ago, BraydenH said:

I couldn’t install an aftermarket cooler with new lines?  The only reason why I was thinking that way is because from what vids I’ve seen, even with the fancy big trans fluid flushing machines they say it’s hard to get all metal out of coolers 

 

But yea this is why I’m asking here is because I’ve got a bit of experience with vehicles but most of the knowledge I have about this topic is from YouTube which I’ve been goin hard on about these 3rd gen GM’s for a couple weeks now and haven’t ever had to worry about everything being right on point with a job like this that’s a bit more technical then stuff like this was 10-15 years ago so I’m very appreciative of any and all advice/insight that anyone’s willing to share 

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, BraydenH said:

I couldn’t install an aftermarket cooler with new lines?  The only reason why I was thinking that way is because from what vids I’ve seen, even with the fancy big trans fluid flushing machines they say it’s hard to get all metal out of coolers 

 

 

 

I assume you are looking at something like the Mishimoto cooler?  If so, that's an additional cooler in the system and does not replace the factory setup.

 

So you'd still have to replace the radiator and condenser if you wanted to 100% eliminate possible metal left in there, and then you could add the Mishimoto cooler on addition.  

Edited by newdude
Posted
1 minute ago, newdude said:

 

 

I assume you are looking at something like the Mishimoto cooler?  If so, that's an additional cooler in the system and does not replace the factory setup.

 

So you'd still have to replace the radiator and condenser if you wanted to 100% eliminate possible metal left in there, and then you could add the Mishimoto cooler on addition.  

 

1 minute ago, newdude said:

 

 

I assume you are looking at something like the Mishimoto cooler?  If so, that's an additional cooler in the system and does not replace the factory setup.

 

So you'd still have to replace the radiator and condenser if you wanted to 100% eliminate possible metal left in there, and then you could add the Mishimoto cooler on addition.  

 

1 minute ago, newdude said:

 

 

I assume you are looking at something like the Mishimoto cooler?  If so, that's an additional cooler in the system and does not replace the factory setup.

 

So you'd still have to replace the radiator and condenser if you wanted to 100% eliminate possible metal left in there, and then you could add the Mishimoto cooler on addition.  

Aight. How many cans of trans fluid flush do you think a guy would need to be safe flushing it back and forth a few times 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...