Jump to content

Potential alternative to the banks iDash with lots more functionality, integrated with AA and refresh infotainment via ODB2 and phone


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I've been getting sick of not having visibility into my DPF regens and other parameters. Banks iDash has a ODB2 that can display (I think) 3 values at a time from ODB2 and requires an aftermarket screen mount on the A-Pillar. Since that already costs money, I started looking for alternatives and I might have found one.

 

 

 

There's an Android App called "Car Scanner ELM ODB2" that is available on the google play store. It has native AA casting abilities, and once installed will appear as an app on your refresh infotainment screen. It has to connect to the vehicle via an ODB2 bluetooth capable dongle. I've been using similar things for over 15 years for my old 2007 Mercedes bluetec (DPF equipped diesel), with the screen output being limited to my phone. Before buying the recommended and well-rated expensive ELM327 adapter, I decided to hook up my 15 year old cheapo chinese amazon BT and see if I could connect and retrieve basic information.... and ... it works! My crappy old adapter can retrieve lots of information, and I was able to customize a dashboard display on my infotainment screen side-by-side with whatever else AA is displaying (always google maps for me). Many values were unreadable, but I could get lots of live readouts that I confirmed were dynamic and real. The only DPF one that is useful with that old adapter is whether or not I'm in an active, passive or no regen. Other than that, I added trans temp, oil temp, boost PSI (BAR) to a dashboard just to test.

 

I've gone ahead and ordered what's considered the gold standard BT ELM327 adapter, which apparently can read all the GM specific PIDs and supposedly allows basic programming, like forcing an active regen when the DPF is fully clogged. What I've purchased is OBDLink MX+ , which is also available from their Amazon store for the same price . It should arrive in a few days and I'll post a follow-up and screenshots once I do. It has its own app that can be used, but I don't believe it can broadcast to AA natively.

 

There's lots of BT ODB2 android apps, but finding one that works natively with AA is difficult. I used torque for years with my mercedes, but development stopped a couple of years ago and it's no longer eligible to be installed on modern android versions, nor did it natively support AA (there were github plugins available to get it to work).

 

My biggest complaint about the "Car Scanner ELM ODB2" app is that my dashboards look nice on my phone, but are mostly just text/numeric readouts rather than gauges on my refresh screen.

 

 

I look forward to exploring this over the next few weeks and posting updates. I'm going to put the same post on the duramax forum as well.

Edited by DubVBenz
Posted
16 hours ago, DubVBenz said:

I've been getting sick of not having visibility into my DPF regens and other parameters. Banks iDash has a ODB2 that can display (I think) 3 values at a time from ODB2 and requires an aftermarket screen mount on the A-Pillar.

A note for the iDash it can display more than three... generally is a pretty legit device. I bought it for regen alerts too. The benefit is it runs independent of your phone. 

 

I like the idea of what you're doing being in the main infotainment screen though, just not the phone being the middleman.

 

It'd be nice if there were an app that could be run on the truck that could communicate with the ELM. 

Posted (edited)

Here's a summary of my work over the last week or so. I've posted this via several updates on different forums, and will consolidate it here, which is why it may read as disjointed. 

 

I have this working with Torque Pro on my 24 Sierra 1500 LZ0 thanks to the custom pids from Engine monitor

To get torque pro operational on Android Auto, you have to use these apps:

Android 13 and below: GitHub - agronick/aa-torque: Performance Monitor for cars with Android Auto
Android 14: GitHub - Inside4ndroid/aa-torque-ex: Performance Monitor for cars with Android Auto (Requires Torque) - You have to be added to a test program to obtain this app. You can request your account be added on the github discussion page

Note: Torque Pro is not available on Android 14 and above because it's been abandoned. You have to obtain the apk, and use adb to install with an override flag. Info: Installing apps with an outdated SDK on Android 14. Example command: adb install --bypass-low-target-sdk-block name_of_package.apk
I cannot recall how I obtained the apk for my paid version of torque.. I have been searching and trying things for a week and cannot remember the exact step. If I find those I'll share them as well.

Edit: I think the way I obtained an APK that was no longer eligible for my version of Android 14 was to install the Aurora Store (alternative play store for devices without google play), set the spoof manager for an phone using an older version of Android and then it gives you the option to download the APK rather than install it. After that, you can navigate to the Aurora folder in a file manager and find the specific APK. NOTE: You will need a license to continue to use it, so you must ensure your real google play account has purchased it. In my experience, it will keep trying to contact a license server via Aurora or Play every few minutes if you are no longer signed in.

The Aurora store can be obtained via F-Droid, which is an alternative android app store that contains things google does not approve.

The AA Torque app allows for unit conversions. When I have some more time, I'm going to try and map the 0, 1 , 2 and 3 values to text. Does anyone know what they correspond to?

My best guesses:

0 = Not active
1 = Passive?
2= Active?
3= ?

 

I've been playing with the custom gauges and pids. My trans temp still isn't the right sensor, but I'm liking the setup so far.

 

 

 

20250104_180015.jpg

 

It's amazing how quickly the soot percentage goes up in city driving, especially if you floor it from a stop. I'm looking forward to seeing how my regen status shows once I hit 100 % to see if it's accurate or not. I'll update once I do. In my daily driving today I went from ~31% to ~38% and varied in between. The value that shows 197 miles is basically static, because it's the average distance between regens. I can verify this with a real scan tool (Autel) that will also allow me to do a forced regen. I was hoping my ODBLink mx +, which is the bluetooth module I purchased and has an accompanying app, would give me that option, but it does not appear to be the case. That said, knowing my soot % and current regen status should give me enough feedback to avoid having to do so in the future.

 

Here's the BT module I'm using, although others may work just as well: https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/

 

ODBLink does have a native android auto app, but it will only display text/strings/numeric values. The nice thing about Torque is you're able to create custom PIDs and, as documented on my above linked post from gm1500diesel.com

Edited by DubVBenz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...