Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello I hope this question hasn't been asked as scrolled around and couldn't find anything on this but what I have is a 09 Chevy Silverado Ltz 1500 4wd with 5.3l and I am adding under glow rock lights and these work in junction with turn signals and brake lights i have the turn signal lights working with the rock lights but not 100% sure where i can connect the one wire i have for the rock lights to the brake light so the rock lights work with brake lights? I think the brake wire is light blue but not exactly sure where it is? I am sorry if this was confusing. Please any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Posted (edited)

Either the green wire (right) or yellow wire (left) run the brake lights in the rear  - just tap into whichever one is closest.

 

Or light blue for the 3rd brake light (CHMSL).

 

EDIT - sounds like the signals have a separate circuit from the stop lamps on those aftermarket lights, so your only choice would be to tap into the 3rd brake light.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted (edited)

Ok that won't be a problem but do you know where I could splice in by any chance? Preferably under the hood somewhere would be ideal but if not its no biggie?i have a wire ran to the back already but i cant find a light blue wire in the cluster under the bed in the back i do see a royal blue wire though. Ok i havent tried the yellow wire yet. The green one with rock lights on turn signal flashes yellow and red when right blinker is on so cant be the green i guess i will try the yellow and see what happens .1738762874733448337476639929792.thumb.jpg.c500622849c96d14c227ec6f62e36d0c.jpg

Edited by Sixth Floor
Posted

I can't remember offhand, but there should be brake light power in either the under hood or interior fuse blocks.

Posted

And just to confirm that's going to be a light blue wire? Would running straight to the brake switch you think that would work?

Posted

I don't know if it's blue up there. You would need to check and make sure power is downstream of the switch, otherwise you will have just a constant 12V there. If it isn't blue, it's probably a good bet that it is NOT switched there. I'm thinking I should tell you to disregard looking up there since that is probably the case. I just can't remember - been a long time since I've done electrical troubleshooting on a 900-series truck.

 

You might have to fish a wire down from the 3rd brake light down through the sheetmetal of the cab - that would be the best way of doing it. Having a snake of some sort would be mandatory, whether an actual wire snake, or something made out of metal coat hangers.

Posted

Ok but it will be light blue wire at the 3rd brake light? i can do that won't be a problem. Thank you for all your help Jsdirt!

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I can't tell you with 100% certainty, but I'm FAIRLY certain it will be blue there. Best thing to do is get a test light, then get a helper to hit the brakes while testing.

 

On that note, IF I remember right, on the 900 series trucks the brake switch was KEYED. In other words, the ignition would have to be ON (engine doesn't have to be running) in order for the brake lights to work, so don't let that take you down a rabbit hole. Most vehicles aren't wired that way - every other vehicle I've ever seen the brake switch went straight to battery power, whether the ignition was on, or not.

 

You're welcome, man! Hope everything goes smooth in hooking it up.🍻

Posted

If you do not have a factory trailer brake controller, there is a CMHSL wire taped up under the dash. I believe the wire is orange on these trucks and it should be marked.It is in the aftermarket trailer brake controller bundle. Look it up in gmupfitter.com.

 

It is up by the steering column.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ahh, yep - forgot about that. Tucked between the column and parking brake, taped up very heavily.

Posted (edited)

I did confirm orange wire with test light prior to install and that was the CMHSL. 

Edited by Sixth Floor
Posted

NICE! Glad to hear that! 🙌

 

Thanks for the follow-up. 🍻

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,993
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    President Roberto
    Newest Member
    President Roberto
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 519 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of  Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers.  [These may  or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.]    These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality,  strength) than  default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose      
    • Thanks!   Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s.  So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out.  Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc).  Next up is new BFG tires Monday.  Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)    
    • Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?
    • How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal.    I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either. 
    • 3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...