Jump to content

sound cutting out

6.2Midnight
 Share

Recommended Posts

kickass audio Enthusiast

kickass audio

Posted
Posted

Update on my problems for now. I was able to get the radio updated to the Y175 firmware everyone has been reporting as the fix for the bluetooth call audio crackling and only have 1 issue now. The issue I have is that pressing and releasing the voice prompt button on the steering wheel does nothing but you can still use "hey google" or "OK google" to issue commands (pending you have onstar data service active or are connected to WiFi with the truck).

 

The dealer couldn't update my original radio to Y175 firmware and said it's been something they run into a lot lately where the radio module is just defective and needs to be swapped out (radio's cost over $600 from what I found).

 

The dealer was also nice enough to get me a loaner 2025 silverado LT. albeit it had the turdomax engine that sounded pathetic when started. it also had a issue where the turn signal stalk would not turn itself off after completing a turn and i'm putting my money on it being that it has a column shifter and it moved the entire steering wheel cover when you put the truck into gear. I hope nobody else with a shifter in their dash runs into that problem.

 

The dealership replaced my radio module (part #: 85086705) and reflashed the new radio with the latest update (build number: full_gminfo37_gb-user 12 W213E-Y175.5.2-SIHM22B-383.1 213 release-keys).

 

I provided them with preliminary bulletin ID's PIT6241 (relating to the crackling noise when on a call) and PIT6101M (relating to the short loss of audio output during a drive cycle).

 

The dealers service write up details document #'s 6557575 and 6730784 which i'm not sure the details of but I would imagine it's for the same problems of audio drop out and bluetooth call audio crackling.

 

The effects of the Y175 update are:

 

1.) As my truck experienced with the Y172 patch that was installed as part of the recall late last year, navigation audio was set to 0 along with the google assistant voice prompts. This is an easy fix and I just tell it to read aloud a text message and continue to raise the volume up on the radio to my desired level while it's reading the google assistant prompt. I also set a destination on google maps and when I know it's giving commands for where to turn, etc. just turn up the radio volume to the desired level.

 

2.) The microphone button on the steering wheel doesn't interface with the radio anymore. It only will claim to send the command to my phone as controlling the assistant feature. If you are paying for onstar data services or have a connection to your truck via WiFi and mobile hotspot, you can still use "hey google" or "OK google" to give commands like send a text message, set the cabin temperature, call someone, etc.

 

3.) The radio operates the fastest I have ever experienced. I am able to switch screens and see notifications that I never had before like when an app is updating through the play store, different setting screens for items that need attention. 

 

4.) Some quick testing shows that only 1 time out of the 20 messages I received with RCS chat enabled on my phone were now coming through the radio and able to be read aloud to me. I was never able to get RCS chat messages to play through the radio in a consistent manner unless I turned off RCS messaging on my phone as a whole.

 

5.) I still have a brief 1 second outage of sound at rare times but the audio comes right back on and i'm not concerned about that. It ONLY happened when I was connected via WiFi and also occurred in the loaner truck so it just seems to be another GM bug that needs to be worked out eventually.

 

6.) Unrelated to the update but as part of the radio replacement, I now have a new XM radio ID and needed to re-enter the subscription to get it activated. It did come with a trial probably for a week is my guess since it was a new radio. I also had to setup my offline maps again and have them download to memory along with pairing my phone and WiFi back up. Nothing that is too hard for the average person to handle.

6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

5.) I still have a brief 1 second outage of sound at rare times but the audio comes right back on and i'm not concerned about that. It ONLY happened when I was connected via WiFi and also occurred in the loaner truck so it just seems to be another GM bug that needs to be worked out eventually.

  this best describes my issue, but when this happens it won't reset unless I shut the truck off. At the same time out cuts out, my channel selector on the back side of the steering wheel on the left side fails to work at the same time. It also resets when the radio does. So, they are definitely are related.

kickass audio Enthusiast

kickass audio

Posted
Posted
46 minutes ago, 6.2Midnight said:

 

5.) I still have a brief 1 second outage of sound at rare times but the audio comes right back on and i'm not concerned about that. It ONLY happened when I was connected via WiFi and also occurred in the loaner truck so it just seems to be another GM bug that needs to be worked out eventually.

  this best describes my issue, but when this happens it won't reset unless I shut the truck off. At the same time out cuts out, my channel selector on the back side of the steering wheel on the left side fails to work at the same time. It also resets when the radio does. So, they are definitely are related.

I have heard of others where the audio never comes back but not anyone mention the issue with the channel selector buttons stopping.

 

I suspect it's a radio failure for your truck. Did you try to boot into safe mode and see if you can drive around in safe mode and see if your problem occurs then too?

6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They did some updates to the radio and couple of times. Then replaced the radio module, still same issue.

GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted
On 3/26/2025 at 9:17 PM, 6.2Midnight said:

They did some updates to the radio and couple of times. Then replaced the radio module, still same issue.

Our team would like to connect with your dealership to assist. Please reach out via email, we can be reached at [email protected]. We look forward to your message. By sending us a message, you consent to the information you provide being monitored and recorded by GM or those acting on GM’s behalf, subject to the GM Privacy Statement: https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.

  • 7 months later...
bulldogplumbing New Member

bulldogplumbing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ive had the same issues on my 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 it was fine for the first 6 months and then it began sometimes its just short cut outs on any source XM/Apple/FM makes no difference and sometimes it will drop out for a long period now im at the at the point where if im on the highway and no ones behind me i put the truck in neutral shut it off ... touch the brake and restart it and then throw it back in drive and carry on. Sometimes this fixes if for long enough to enjoy the drive. Ive made videos while driving and changing sources to show GM what is happening. My stereo shop checked everything they worked on during the amp/sub install and they said there are no voltage drops or any loose connections that they could find and its a head unit issue. So a couple months later and this sound cutting is absolutely Temperature and voltage sensitive.. to the point when its below 0 out it will cut out and as it warms and gets above 0 there are no cuts in the sound.. Im lost as to this but GM refuses to diagnose the issue unless i Have the aftermarket speakers and amp taken out and put back to stock.. seems absurd and i figure ill have the truck for one more season and then its gone before it gets cold anyways so issue fixed far as im concerned.

Edited by bulldogplumbing
  • 2 months later...
6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The dealership I went to several times regardingthis has pretty much brushed me off over this. It's very frustrating on it's own, let alone while very important calls with my neurologist, back surgeon, work and so on... 

 

 

6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/30/2025 at 6:42 PM, GMCustomerService said:

Our team would like to connect with your dealership to assist. Please reach out via email, we can be reached at [email protected]. We look forward to your message. By sending us a message, you consent to the information you provide being monitored and recorded by GM or those acting on GM’s behalf, subject to the GM Privacy Statement: https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.

 

I did contact you, I gave you all the information you asked for, nothing became of it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...