Just ordered a Kryptonite Stage 3 2"level

[Chuck FB]

8 hours ago, davester said:

gm also switched up how they measure/setiup the front end.  for the gmt800's, they specified measuring the height/distance of some body part (possibly hub to fender, I forget exactly), while the gmt900's,a section of the lower a-arm had to be lever or at some angle to something else, so I can see that resulting in a height difference from side to side.

 

There should not be any appreciable difference between the two sides and while the fender to hub center would not be any official measurement, its relatively close and far easier to measure and from vehicle to vehicle of the same brand and series. Obviously if the vehicle was in an accident and the fenders or fender mounts are messed up it would become a meaningless measurement. And like I eluded to, for anyone that might claim how I and many others have measured their trucks in this way and that doesn't equate to the jounce bumper clearance and therefore angles of the lower A arms, the visual alone I did of that jounce bumper clearance before I touched the keys was extremely evident that the truck was quite cockeyed. While the key adjuster bolts will never be exactly the same side to side due to manufacturing tolerances of all the components, my adjuster bolts were so different in exposed length from side to side that matched up with the wonky tilt of the truck and once I adjusted them and I lifted the truck up to do the adjusting and then set back down and backed the truck up and then forward to the same spot in the shop to settle the tires/suspension and once satisfied I drove the truck some few hundred miles and then remeasured to make double sure that nothing had changed and it was still spot on. I even remeasured on another cement floor in a shed ( and always made sure to have the tire pressures set equal from side to side ) and it all was the same as my setting I had set out to accomplish. Could I have turned a blind eye to it and left it the way it came from the factory, sure it certainly wasn't ideal but would have worked that way but I knew I could take the time and improve it many times over vs the few seconds allowed at the factory to adjust it and send it on down the line. 

 

I should add that the rear was being affected as well from the front being off, once the front was brought into line the rear was now almost spot on as well. I could see where a vehicle being off like that could affect ice braking performance/handling by it causing uneven weighting of the tires, it certainly wouldn't help it any.

[PBNB]

Finally got around to putting my kit in:

 

I went with Kings front and rear (got the ext length with the adjusters and reservoirs)

I did the Suspension Maxx Keys with the Diff Drop Spacers and Skid Plate Spacers.

Added Cognito upper control arms. 

Added Cognito 1" rear blocks

 

I set the height at 1.75" inches upfront. I still have a bit of rear rake after all this and with 400 lbs of stuff over the bed.

 

I haven't had a test drive yet, as I am waiting for an opening at the alignment shop first.

 

Edited January 1 by PBNB

[OS RR]

On 12/31/2025 at 3:12 PM, PBNB said:

Finally got around to putting my kit in:

 

I went with Kings front and rear (got the ext length with the adjusters and reservoirs)

I did the Suspension Maxx Keys with the Diff Drop Spacers and Skid Plate Spacers.

Added Cognito upper control arms. 

Added Cognito 1" rear blocks

 

I set the height at 1.75" inches upfront. I still have a bit of rear rake after all this and with 400 lbs of stuff over the bed.

 

I haven't had a test drive yet, as I am waiting for an opening at the alignment shop first.

 

 

 

 

Got any shots down the sides? I would like to see how far 1.75" pulled the front wheels in. These trucks aren't like the trucks of ye old times that had the narrow rear end. Pretty even out of the factory.

 

Edited January 20 by OS RR

[Chuck FB]

On 12/31/2025 at 1:12 PM, PBNB said:

Finally got around to putting my kit in:

 

I went with Kings front and rear (got the ext length with the adjusters and reservoirs)

I did the Suspension Maxx Keys with the Diff Drop Spacers and Skid Plate Spacers.

Added Cognito upper control arms. 

Added Cognito 1" rear blocks

 

I set the height at 1.75" inches upfront. I still have a bit of rear rake after all this and with 400 lbs of stuff over the bed.

 

I haven't had a test drive yet, as I am waiting for an opening at the alignment shop first.

 

 

Unless this was answered in another thread, what is the actual current measurement from the bottom of the plastic fender molding down to the center of the hub. That method takes out the tire diameter differences between trucks so makes for a pretty accurate comparison between trucks of the same platform and in this case the Chev fender since the GM fender is slightly lower ( 3/8 of an inch lower its claimed for the same suspension height to a Chev ). 

 

Assuming you were able to get into a shop to align it, what are your initial thoughts on the suspension mods ? 

[PBNB]

3 hours ago, OS RR said:

 

 

 

Got any shots down the sides? I would like to see how far 1.75" pulled the front wheels in. These trucks aren't like the trucks of ye old times that had the narrow rear end. Pretty even out of the factory.

 

I think the stock upper control arm might cause some changes and be pulled inwards after going up 1.75” in height. My guess would be about .75” inward. The upper control arms that I put on help push the wheels outward. And the alignment adjustment moves the wheels outward on the lower control arms. I didn’t measure it before but expect that the track width is very close to the original setting before doing the kit.

 

I can try to post some pics of how it sits now.

[PBNB]

2 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

 

Unless this was answered in another thread, what is the actual current measurement from the bottom of the plastic fender molding down to the center of the hub. That method takes out the tire diameter differences between trucks so makes for a pretty accurate comparison between trucks of the same platform and in this case the Chev fender since the GM fender is slightly lower ( 3/8 of an inch lower its claimed for the same suspension height to a Chev ). 

 

Assuming you were able to get into a shop to align it, what are your initial thoughts on the suspension mods ? 

The measurements are all around 26 1/4” now on all 4 corners. 
 

Alignment was done and on the few drives I have done, the ride is firmer but bumps are smoother. The truck isn’t as bouncy as it was before. I have to play with the adjusters to dial the ride in but for now it is set at 5 clicks from mild with the adjusters and they have about 25 or so clicks to full compression resistance.

 

Overall, I like it. The ride is definitely better, I like the ride height as well. I was able to set the keys to level out the sides. My bigger surprise is that the rear came up almost 2” but I only added a 1” block? Maybe is just need to settle a bit. 

[Chuck FB]

1 hour ago, PBNB said:

The measurements are all around 26 1/4” now on all 4 corners. 
 

Alignment was done and on the few drives I have done, the ride is firmer but bumps are smoother. The truck isn’t as bouncy as it was before. I have to play with the adjusters to dial the ride in but for now it is set at 5 clicks from mild with the adjusters and they have about 25 or so clicks to full compression resistance.

 

Overall, I like it. The ride is definitely better, I like the ride height as well. I was able to set the keys to level out the sides. My bigger surprise is that the rear came up almost 2” but I only added a 1” block? Maybe is just need to settle a bit. 

 

I do still suspect those factory shocks were worn out which is crazy to think for the few km that truck had on it but the way you describe it bouncing around reactive wise after having hit a bump sounded very classic for shocks that have fizzled out. That sounds about right with your current height over a stock height or what I could make of it on my truck due to the lopsided adjusting at the factory. With the bit of weight of add ons and stuff in the back of my truck and my raising the front an averaged 1/2 inch, I sit at close to that 25 inch mark all the way around. 

 

Your rear though, that I sure can't explain as per going up two inches with a one inch block but I know you were seemingly low on the rear before compared to a new truck but guessed spring settling due to whatever the former owner had been loading or towing with it. The numbers sound good to me now front to rear, as long as you have enough front end droop travel that your not causing the suspension to top out too easily. If not an issue, then really the main downside is the increased angle of the drive shafts ( the diff spacers took up a bit of that ) and the angle of the tie rods and how they tend to cause faster wear on the pitman arm joint and the drag link joint.

[PBNB]

1 hour ago, Chuck FB said:

 

I do still suspect those factory shocks were worn out which is crazy to think for the few km that truck had on it but the way you describe it bouncing around reactive wise after having hit a bump sounded very classic for shocks that have fizzled out. That sounds about right with your current height over a stock height or what I could make of it on my truck due to the lopsided adjusting at the factory. With the bit of weight of add ons and stuff in the back of my truck and my raising the front an averaged 1/2 inch, I sit at close to that 25 inch mark all the way around. 

 

Your rear though, that I sure can't explain as per going up two inches with a one inch block but I know you were seemingly low on the rear before compared to a new truck but guessed spring settling due to whatever the former owner had been loading or towing with it. The numbers sound good to me now front to rear, as long as you have enough front end droop travel that your not causing the suspension to top out too easily. If not an issue, then really the main downside is the increased angle of the drive shafts ( the diff spacers took up a bit of that ) and the angle of the tie rods and how they tend to cause faster wear on the pitman arm joint and the drag link joint.

 

I am sure the original shocks were toast after just 2 1/2 years, they are also very rusty which is strange. They look about 20 years old! I guess that's what you get for $2 OEM shocks. 

 

The odd thing is the Z71 package seems to come with an upgraded suspension but I think it is really just another badge to put on the truck! 

 

One notable comment from the alignment shop was that the settings were almost identical to the OE settings when they put it on the rack. I put the plastic retaining tabs for the caster and camber adjusters back on so the previous adjustments were almost correct with the new gear and height. They didn't need to change one side at all and just a small adjustment on the other side. 

 

We have some towing to do coming up in March so I can see how it handles the added weight.

 

 

[Chuck FB]

50 minutes ago, PBNB said:

 

I am sure the original shocks were toast after just 2 1/2 years, they are also very rusty which is strange. They look about 20 years old! I guess that's what you get for $2 OEM shocks. 

 

The odd thing is the Z71 package seems to come with an upgraded suspension but I think it is really just another badge to put on the truck! 

 

One notable comment from the alignment shop was that the settings were almost identical to the OE settings when they put it on the rack. I put the plastic retaining tabs for the caster and camber adjusters back on so the previous adjustments were almost correct with the new gear and height. They didn't need to change one side at all and just a small adjustment on the other side. 

 

We have some towing to do coming up in March so I can see how it handles the added weight.

 

 

 

Like other manufactures do also, the Chev Z71 and creating a sticker or a solid emblem was a fantastic marketing scheme, sure in some trims that means the truck will have a two speed transfer case in the 1/2 tons and a certain wheel size or tire type theme, the so called skid plates as the skid plates they provide on these HD trucks is beyond laughable, oh and I almost forgot the shocks .. white shocks with red boots stand out nicely on the show room floor. There is nothing different about the actual suspension I don't believe for the trucks through all the 30 some years they have had that package but it sure stirs up some interest, again a great marketing scheme. Now its the trail boss, they upped the anti with that but again with an HD its color schemes and tire/wheel size, with Rancho shocks of course LOL. 

 

Good question why the shocks were so rusty but I doubt they put a lot of effort into the prep or the paint itself, they are not very expensive shocks relative to other budget shocks so I guess its hard to expect too much for the finish but certainly from what others have said they don't seem to last very long, heck the regular GM shocks last a lot longer as far as I know. 

 

I gather from the alignment that nothing stood out as worn lower ball joint or other steering part wise. Your towing test, you will see then if it wants some more resistance dialed into the rear shocks or not. 

[PBNB]

On 1/20/2026 at 9:29 AM, OS RR said:

 

 

 

Got any shots down the sides? I would like to see how far 1.75" height gain will pull the front wheels in. These trucks aren't like the trucks of ye old times that had the narrow rear end. Pretty even out of the factory.

 

So I did a little digging into the track to see if there is a notable difference and visually it looks like the front wheels are a bit inboard of the fender lips and the rear are a bit further out. So I wanted to see what the fender spacing is according to the charts that I have. First off the dimensions published show the rear width at 80.98" and the front width at 83.8". So what I am seeing seems to ring true and if I loose an 1.5" of poke in the front compared to the rear, the track is still good.

 

So then if I look at some earlier pics of the truck before I did anything to the suspension. It appears to be the same or very similar. I can't really confirm the width before other than looking at the before pictures and comparing them to the truck.

 

I know that the claim is that the Cognito UCA's will help to align the ball joints after turning the torsion bars.

[dieselfan1]

Update on the original topic.

 

I got tired of the 35x11.50R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G3s. 

I wanted 37s.

I talked to my lift kit buddy and had him turn my keys up for a total ~3" and got some Toyo Open Country R/T Pros 37x12.50R20LT .

These tires are $600 a throw and look badass. Hybrid tire Between an all terrain and an M/T

Whole new look for the truck.

I'm also switching the rear block to 2" instead of 1"

[Pryme]

25 minutes ago, dieselfan1 said:

Update on the original topic.

 

I got tired of the 35x11.50R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G3s. 

I wanted 37s.

I talked to my lift kit buddy and had him turn my keys up for a total ~3" and got some Toyo Open Country R/T Pros 37x12.50R20LT .

These tires are $600 a throw and look badass. Hybrid tire Between an all terrain and an M/T

Whole new look for the truck.

I'm also switching the rear block to 2" instead of 1"

Looks great. Have you measured the height of the truck? Would be interested to know that number. I see you’re at Menards. Love that store. 

[PBNB]

6 hours ago, dieselfan1 said:

Update on the original topic.

 

I got tired of the 35x11.50R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G3s. 

I wanted 37s.

I talked to my lift kit buddy and had him turn my keys up for a total ~3" and got some Toyo Open Country R/T Pros 37x12.50R20LT .

These tires are $600 a throw and look badass. Hybrid tire Between an all terrain and an M/T

Whole new look for the truck.

I'm also switching the rear block to 2" instead of 1"

The tire size does look proper! I was looking at my 295/70R18's and even with my modest lift, mine look tiny! 

 

Any issues with using the stock wheels with the larger tires?

 

Did you look at any of the other parts like diff drop or different tie-rod ends etc... when going up that high?

[dieselfan1]

Tires fit stock wheels no problem. 

Next on my list is Kryptonite tie rod ends

[Chuck FB]

10 hours ago, dieselfan1 said:

Update on the original topic.

 

I got tired of the 35x11.50R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G3s. 

I wanted 37s.

I talked to my lift kit buddy and had him turn my keys up for a total ~3" and got some Toyo Open Country R/T Pros 37x12.50R20LT .

These tires are $600 a throw and look badass. Hybrid tire Between an all terrain and an M/T

Whole new look for the truck.

I'm also switching the rear block to 2" instead of 1"

I would imagine there is very little droop travel now, would be interesting to measure that sometime with a floor jack. You should try it over a speed bump and see how the suspension responds and if you can feel it top out.

 

I suppose no one in the aftermarket has figured out a way of reprograming the speedometer yet as that would be nice to have reading correctly.