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Posted

Looks very level in the side shot! 

 

I noticed that the droop stops are very close to the UCA's in the one shot? 

 

I was reading the Cognito install sheet and they mentioned trimming the stop.

 

Are you happy with the ride now that you have had it for a short while?

Posted
4 minutes ago, dieselfan1 said:

I'm happy with it. It's definitely an improvement. 

 Have you gone over any speed bumps yet and that really depends on their profile and speed as to how a turned up limited droop travel suspension reacts but with an older truck I have that I have the bars turned up, that shows up quite evidently as it doesn't handle some of the speed bumps well. The front suspension compresses initially but that forces the front of the truck up into the air and then as the tire goes over the bump the suspension uses up its limited droop travel and I feel a "hit" as that happens, then the front of the truck drops back down with more speed than it would otherwise because the tire would literally be off the ground I suspect for a split second and that causes a harder landing since the suspension/tire wasn't able to remain planted on the ground. Driving on relatively smooth surfaces one would never know it would have that type of reaction although in its case I certainly would say it stiffened up the ride a bit in the front and it does not like going over frost heaves at highway speed. That's a half ton truck I am speaking of, my new one ton goes over those same speed bumps with less harshness, I think that says something right there ! LOL. 

 

Don't get me wrong as I am not claiming anything about your aftermarket leveling kit, just comparing two trucks of mine and that the half ton did ride differently before I jacked around with the suspension which in my case had a purpose which was off road clearance ( I have spacer blocks under the rear leaf's )

  • Like 1
Posted

I go over two to four sets of railroad tracks every day 25 mph approx

They are at an angle to the road.

Before it skidded across. Now it walks right over them.

The difference is very apparent. 

Everyone else on FB running this kit agrees 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
8 minutes ago, dieselfan1 said:

I go over two to four sets of railroad tracks every day 25 mph approx

They are at an angle to the road.

Before it skidded across. Now it walks right over them.

The difference is very apparent. 

Everyone else on FB running this kit agrees 

 

 

I wonder then if its the shocks that is mostly or owes all the credit for how the suspension is reacting and that would apply to both the front and rear end. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I didn't do the full leveling kit yet but I did turn up my stock keys 3 turns and I installed Fox 2.0 all around and this made a big difference.   

  • Like 3
Posted

Are you gonna replace the rear shocks as well?

When I leveled my 2012 2500 I did shocks on all 4 corners. Made a huge difference.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just ordered the Kryptonite Steering Stabilizer kit with a Fox 2.0 shock.

Everyone that has one says it works great.

My plan is to replace everything steering related with Kryptonite parts. They sell a kit with everything. Huge upgrade from stock.

 

Kryptonite Ultimate Front End Package (For Factory Outer Rod End) ULTIMATE11 | XDP https://share.google/x7vGfdgaNTTL4vNXP

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/5/2025 at 10:04 AM, dieselfan1 said:

I just ordered the Kryptonite Steering Stabilizer kit with a Fox 2.0 shock.

Everyone that has one says it works great.

My plan is to replace everything steering related with Kryptonite parts. They sell a kit with everything. Huge upgrade from stock.

 

Kryptonite Ultimate Front End Package (For Factory Outer Rod End) ULTIMATE11 | XDP https://share.google/x7vGfdgaNTTL4vNXP

Got the Stabilizer kit installed today. Took 30 minutes. 

Makes a noticeable difference. Especially when you hit a bump.

Worth it.

Posted
On 11/25/2025 at 7:44 PM, dieselfan1 said:

I go over two to four sets of railroad tracks every day 25 mph approx

They are at an angle to the road.

Before it skidded across. Now it walks right over them.

The difference is very apparent. 

Everyone else on FB running this kit agrees 

 

 

 

I've noticed (atleast on my truck) the stock setup rides the front bump stops. I think that's why these trucks ride "rough". Cranking the bars pushes the lower control arms down away from the stops and gives the room for the control arm to move.

  • Like 1
Posted
54 minutes ago, OS RR said:

 

 

I've noticed (atleast on my truck) the stock setup rides the front bump stops. I think that's why these trucks ride "rough". Cranking the bars pushes the lower control arms down away from the stops and gives the room for the control arm to move.

 

How many miles did you have on your truck before you turned the bars up a bit ?. As I have commented before when I first bought my truck earlier this year I discovered off the bat that the adjustment was not level from side to side and was lower on the passenger side ( I made sure to have the fuel tank full before measuring and adjusting ) so I adjusted until I had it both level side to side as well as raised it slightly, 25 inches from hub center to he underside of my chev fender was my goal which would be a slightly different measurement for the GM equivalent. The passenger side had been at about 24 1/4" before I touched it and was very very close to touching the jounce bumper but this is on a brand new truck vs one that would settle with some use and most likely be riding rather hard onto the jounce bumpers at that point. I did just enough to create some leeway with suspension movement but not enough to throw off the cv angles or the tie rod angles and also this has been a number that has been tossed around quite a bit. It allows for nearly that 3 inches of droop travel which is also the other side of the coin as cranking it way up causes all sorts of wear issues plus loosing on the other end as per the amount of droop and then that causes a crappy suspension reaction and ride as well. 

 

I've heard the same thing as your comment from other sources and someone that has the plow prep bars said that he too gained ride quality by turning up the bars just a bit to gain some jounce bumper clearance but not going crazy with the adjustment. 

Posted
3 hours ago, OS RR said:

 

 

I've noticed (atleast on my truck) the stock setup rides the front bump stops. I think that's why these trucks ride "rough". Cranking the bars pushes the lower control arms down away from the stops and gives the room for the control arm to move.

If it's like the gmt800's, it's designed to be slightly compressing the jounces at rest.  They are a designed-in part of the front suspension, part of it's range of travel, not bump stops.  Cranking keys so it doesn't rest on them moves the suspension off the center of it's range of travel.

 

But that's IF it's like the gmt800's.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, davester said:

If it's like the gmt800's, it's designed to be slightly compressing the jounces at rest.  They are a designed-in part of the front suspension, part of it's range of travel, not bump stops.  Cranking keys so it doesn't rest on them moves the suspension off the center of it's range of travel.

 

But that's IF it's like the gmt800's.

 

I hear you on that and all I can say is that my low side was not quite touching and my high side had a certain amount of clearance ( I don't mean a lot and never measured it and would guess a 1/4" ). Also my high side as per the lopsided job they did at the factory, it was at 24 3/4" to the fender from hub center so I only effectively raised that side an additional 1/4". The irony was that I had to turn the key adjuster on the high side OUT a 1/2 a turn from where they had it as adjusting the other side which was low up the 3/4 of an inch lifted the opposite side along with it over a 1/4 inch. Like I said, what a piss poor job they did at the factory and that would vary from truck to truck as I expect some trucks rolled out with a better side to side adjustment, just the luck of the draw I got someone rushing on the tools and it was "good enough". Being that my truck was new when I did this adjustment, no doubt it will settle in a bit lower as some use accumulates and have heard others mention that over time they have found the front end to be sagging down some from what it had been new and that is the nature of springs. 

Posted

gm also switched up how they measure/setiup the front end.  for the gmt800's, they specified measuring the height/distance of some body part (possibly hub to fender, I forget exactly), while the gmt900's,a section of the lower a-arm had to be lever or at some angle to something else, so I can see that resulting in a height difference from side to side.

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