Jump to content

Need Some Advice

TexasKeith
 Share

Recommended Posts

TexasKeith Enthusiast

TexasKeith

Posted
Posted (edited)

Passenger side view mirror got smashed. Is this going to require a whole new mirror assembly replacement? Or just a new mirror/glass? 

IMG_6729.jpeg

IMG_6727.jpeg

Edited by TexasKeith
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 5/20/2026 at 12:01 AM, TexasKeith said:

Passenger side view mirror got smashed. Is this going to require a whole new mirror assembly replacement? Or just a new mirror/glass? 

 

 

 

 

Silveradosid is correct.  The black frame around the glass, and the glass itself are both orderable pieces.  

Edited by newdude
  • 3 weeks later...
GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted

We understand the inconvenience that comes with mirror concerns like yours, @TexasKeith. For assistance with an official diagnosis and finding compatible parts for any of your Sierra's recommended repairs, we encourage you to visit your local GMC dealer. We are happy to provide an extra layer of support between you can your dealership as well. If you have any additional questions or concerns, please visit: https://s.gmc.com/support-request  and fill out the support request form. We will keep our eyes peeled for your outreach.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • newdude
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By newdude · Posted

      It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...