Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Profile: 2014 Chevy Silverado. 5.3L Z71 crew cab short box. 

Can't isolate the problem with my truck A/C. 

 

Blows air temperature air out of it. A/C compressor clutch turns when turned on. Turns off when turned off. A/C module used to get stuck if you accidently turned it to warm air and back to cool. Knob would turn all the way, but the temp would not get as cool as it did. Now it does not get cool at all. 

A/C freon levels have recharged, purged, and recharged again. Ensured proper levels of refrigerant went into A/C system. No difference. 

I have checked all the fuses and relays. No problem there. 

Can't figure out if it is a blend door actuator, A/C inlet valve actuator, A/C control module, A/C sensor, or A/C compressor. Limited tools and income, so the level of testing is pretty basic. Welcome ideas and solutions. Thank you.

Posted
20 hours ago, Somethingclever_2014GM said:

...A/C module used to get stuck if you accidently turned it to warm air and back to cool. Knob would turn all the way, but the temp would not get as cool as it did. Now it does not get cool at all...

Can't figure out if it is a blend door actuator...

Not sure what part you are referring to as "getting stuck" but if the blend door was getting stuck and finally gave up, that's where I would start. 

 

If it is a dual zone system, does either side get cold?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/31/2026 at 2:35 PM, Somethingclever_2014GM said:

Profile: 2014 Chevy Silverado. 5.3L Z71 crew cab short box. 

Can't isolate the problem with my truck A/C. 

 

Blows air temperature air out of it. A/C compressor clutch turns when turned on. Turns off when turned off. A/C module used to get stuck if you accidently turned it to warm air and back to cool. Knob would turn all the way, but the temp would not get as cool as it did. Now it does not get cool at all. 

A/C freon levels have recharged, purged, and recharged again. Ensured proper levels of refrigerant went into A/C system. No difference. 

I have checked all the fuses and relays. No problem there. 

Can't figure out if it is a blend door actuator, A/C inlet valve actuator, A/C control module, A/C sensor, or A/C compressor. Limited tools and income, so the level of testing is pretty basic. Welcome ideas and solutions. Thank you.

Check the a/c condenser.............they are notorious for cracking at the pinch weld.  Look through the grill on the driverside.  There's a small tack weld.  If I remember right if you hold up a black light the refrigerant will glow if the weld is cracked  

 

AC Condenser replacement : r/Silverado

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Hopefully your system has leak dye in it still?  A black light will help find the dye at the leaks.  

 

Yea condenser leak is probably the most common issue on the 2014-2018 generation 1500s.  

 

Next common would be the one hose off the compressor or the compressor itself.  2014s used to crack that hose near where it attached to the compressor if I'm not mistaken.    

 

EDIT:  Here's the PI for that line cracking - temp.xml  It can spray dye all over the hose and compressor if it happens.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

No leaks. Replaced the condenser 3 years ago. Problem was found to be caused by the A/C blend door actuator. Just replaced it and it's blowing out the cold air it used to when I bought it. 

17812972329361589756390416668241.jpg

Edited by Somethingclever_2014GM
Included photo of replaced part.
  • Like 3
Posted
11 hours ago, Somethingclever_2014GM said:

No leaks. Replaced the condenser 3 years ago. Problem was found to be caused by the A/C blend door actuator. Just replaced it and it's blowing out the cold air it used to when I bought it. 

I just delt with this this morning.  Already replaced my condenser two years ago.  I didn't have to replace my blend door actuator, I just had to do the relearn process and it worked. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Glad it worked for you. I tried that 1st, about 2 years ago. Didn't help. I also tried doing a hard reset (disconnecting battery for minimum of 30 minutes). Worked a couple times, but after one summer of doing it over and over, that no longer worked. 

I was fairly confident it was either the compressor or a failed actuator, but I just couldn't identify which one. Had to research which actuators do what and which last numbers are associated with each.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/12/2026 at 1:53 PM, Somethingclever_2014GM said:

Glad it worked for you. I tried that 1st, about 2 years ago. Didn't help. I also tried doing a hard reset (disconnecting battery for minimum of 30 minutes). Worked a couple times, but after one summer of doing it over and over, that no longer worked. 

I was fairly confident it was either the compressor or a failed actuator, but I just couldn't identify which one. Had to research which actuators do what and which last numbers are associated with each.

Spoke to soon.  The next day my A/C wasn't getting very cold again.  I checked the system, compressor was good, both fans spinning strong.  I recharged the system myself using the UV refrigerant, the next day I used a black light and the Schrader valve has failed.  Seems like an easy fix, just glad it's not the compressor or the evaporator coil under the dash.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
    • So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires.  it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...