Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well I am officially joining the club…. Our 2022 Silverado 1500 6.2L with 87k miles just blew her engine..  Similar story to others- driving on highway and everything goes dead and lights flash and you have to scramble to get to side of road…. We were in rural part of WY but luckily had enough cell service to get AAA out to tow us to closest dealer who confirmed blown engine and ordered new one from GM.. They are saying around 3 weeks to get new engine.  

Overall after reading for months about the potential for issues with the 6.2L motors (I did the recall and it passed a couple months ago), Im pretty pragmatic about all this.  However I do have a question and need some feedback from others:  My dealer has no loaners - so for those whose dealers had no loaners, have any of you gone to GM and had them reimburse a rental until the truck is fixed??

Thanks!

Posted

Ha!!  So GM Customer service, ive already been talking with someone on your email team and there is nothing they can do. So pretty consistent with everyone else’s experience- you can do NOTHING..  worthless emails.  Sure glad i have 4 GM cars on our family cuz now its clear you dont care.. Sad and pathetic.   

  • Like 1
Posted

Update. So the engine went out on July 4th and today I picked the truck up with its “new” remanufactured engine. Giving the dealership some credit for the holiday, it took about 2 weeks to get the truck back- so better than i expected for sure.  Unfortunately the next steps the dealership gave me to register the new engine so its under warranty were not correct and its confusing on exactly what the warranty will be on this engine- the website says 36 months or 100k miles, however Im currently at 88K miles, so does that mean ive only got 12k miles of warranty on this engine? Ive reached out to GM to get clarification. 

Posted

I can't believe that could possibly be the case. It should be 36mo/100k miles from installation. Then again, it also seems like since a dealership installed it, it'd all be in the system and you wouldn't need to worry about registering, either. Shows you what I know. 😄

Hope this one outlives the warranty!

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, mark1968 said:

Update. So the engine went out on July 4th and today I picked the truck up with its “new” remanufactured engine. Giving the dealership some credit for the holiday, it took about 2 weeks to get the truck back- so better than i expected for sure.  Unfortunately the next steps the dealership gave me to register the new engine so its under warranty were not correct and its confusing on exactly what the warranty will be on this engine- the website says 36 months or 100k miles, however Im currently at 88K miles, so does that mean ive only got 12k miles of warranty on this engine? Ive reached out to GM to get clarification. 

 

 

The engine was done as part of the 6.2 recall?

 

You'd have to see if your VIN also has the 6.2 engine special coverage on it.  Coverage number is N252494003.  If you have this, your engine is covered under this and NOT the GM replacement part engine warranty which is 3yr/100k from the date of install.  The 3yr/100k mi warranty is in effect for non warranty purchases.  

 

This is not any different if it was replaced under warranty without a recall or special coverage.  So if you had a 5.3 and it popped at 3 years in at 50,000mi during the 5yr/60k powertrain, the replacement engine would not get the 3yr/100k, and instead gets the remainder of the 5yr/60k as coverage.  

 

So N252494003 gives 10 years or 150,000mi of coverage, which ever comes first, starting at the vehicle in service date.  So if your in service date is 01/01/2022, N252494003 gives you special coverage of the engine until 01/01/2032 or 150,000mi, whichever comes first.  So if your start date was 01/01/2022, you'd have left 5 years and 4 months (lets round to august 1st), or 62,000mi left of coverage.

 

So you need to know your in service date to know how much coverage is left.  

  • Like 3
Posted

from another thread

 

  On 1/24/2026 at 6:28 PM, RW2018GMC said:

Sorry but I didn't read very much of the thread but here is my experience.

 

2024 Sierra Denali, 37K miles, no noise or any other indications, I was going to have the inspection on my next oil change

 

I stopped at a stop sign, waited my turn and when I pressed on the gas it died. Tried to restart and it would not. Waited a few minutes and tried again. It started and said low oil pressure so I limped it to the nearest safe location and parked. Called Onstar and they sent a tow truck. He says lets try to start it. We do and no check engine light. Seems to idle fine and although I'm in a noisy location, it sounds okay. He said he had the same situation with a Tahoe a few days ago. The dealership I use is only about 5 miles away so I decide to drive there. Then halfway there while I am driving 65mph on the interstate it completely shuts down. I was in the right lane and pulled off to the shoulder. Kinda scary. Call Onstar again and a tow truck comes and takes it to the dealership. This is on a Saturday around 5:30pm by the time it gets to the dealership. They call me on Monday and tell me it needs an engine replacement but they don't have one in stock but have one coming in soon. They following Monday they call and tell me it is ready. They had it less than 6 working days. So far, so good, 5 days and about 200 miles. 

 

Side note...I looked at the paperwork and it showed $17,516!!!

 

 

Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.

 

However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, RW2018GMC said:

from another thread

 

  On 1/24/2026 at 6:28 PM, RW2018GMC said:

Sorry but I didn't read very much of the thread but here is my experience.

 

2024 Sierra Denali, 37K miles, no noise or any other indications, I was going to have the inspection on my next oil change

 

I stopped at a stop sign, waited my turn and when I pressed on the gas it died. Tried to restart and it would not. Waited a few minutes and tried again. It started and said low oil pressure so I limped it to the nearest safe location and parked. Called Onstar and they sent a tow truck. He says lets try to start it. We do and no check engine light. Seems to idle fine and although I'm in a noisy location, it sounds okay. He said he had the same situation with a Tahoe a few days ago. The dealership I use is only about 5 miles away so I decide to drive there. Then halfway there while I am driving 65mph on the interstate it completely shuts down. I was in the right lane and pulled off to the shoulder. Kinda scary. Call Onstar again and a tow truck comes and takes it to the dealership. This is on a Saturday around 5:30pm by the time it gets to the dealership. They call me on Monday and tell me it needs an engine replacement but they don't have one in stock but have one coming in soon. They following Monday they call and tell me it is ready. They had it less than 6 working days. So far, so good, 5 days and about 200 miles. 

 

Side note...I looked at the paperwork and it showed $17,516!!!

 

 

Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.

 

However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 

 

Posted

Thanks for sharing and we are very similar in our experience. When our truck shut down initially and stranded us by side of road and we got it towed to the dealer, after the weekend the dealer called and said “whats the problem- the truck started right up”.  When i told him our experience he said a tech would check it out.  Well it was on the tech taking a “test drive” in the truck that the engine actually failed.  So the new bulletin is something for folks to watch out for.  Regardless, and i think Newdude nailed it, since the engine replacement is under the recall, we get the “up to 150k miles” warranty on the engine. I was hoping for 36months/100k from fail date but it’s up to the 150K and being that we are at 87K miles, we still have 70k+ miles for coverage, so not horrible. At least thats the way i understand it all. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...