Jump to content

What exactly is an LS1 Edit?


Recommended Posts

Posted

It is fun to learn how to use. Once you do its a breeze. I is very versatile tool if you really want to get heavy into the mods. HPTuners has come out with a similar product that is supposed to be easier to use than Edit. I have not seen it yet, but Im gonna stick with Edit I guess.

 

Heres a little list of what you can tweak/change:

 

-Engine Control-

 

•Limiters:

four Idle Speed Tables

Five RPM Limits

RPM limit By Gear Table

RPM Limit by Temperature

RPM Limit Delay

 

•Fuel:

Fuel Air Ratio Table

Volumetric Efficiency Table

MAF calibration Table

Fuel Pressure versus voltage

Fuel Injector flow rate Manifold vacuum

Fuel injector Offset Table

Power Enrichment vs Temp Table

Power enrichment versus RPM Table

Wide Open Throttle Hot & Cold Tables

Closed Loop Enable vs Temperature

 

•Timing:

High and Low Octane Spark Adv. vs RPM vs Load

Base Spark Advance in Gear, and In neutral Tables

four Knock retard Tables

3 Torque Management tables

6 Knock Learn Parameters

Maximum Torque Parameter

 

•Engine Diagnostics:

You can change the mode of 64 different Diagnostic Tests (Disable certain codes that make the SES light flash)

 

-Transmission-

 

•A4 Shift Speed:

Normal Mode Shift Speed vs Throttle position for each Up and Down Shift

Performance Mode Shift Speed vs Throttle position for each Up and Down Shift

Wide Open Throttle Shift Parameters

 

•A4 Shift Firmness:

Force Motor Current vs Temperature vs Throttle Position

Desired Shift time vs Torque for each Up and Down Shift

Torque Reduction vs RPM

 

•TCC lock tables:

Normal Mode TCC lock speed for each gear by Throttle Position

Performance Mode TCC lock speed for each gear by Throttle Position

Cruise Mode TCC lock speed for each gear by Throttle Position

Normal Mode TCC release speed for each gear by Throttle Position

Performance Mode TCC release speed for each gear by Throttle Position

Cruise Mode TCC release speed for each gear by Throttle Position

 

•M6 CAGS:

Six control parameters

 

-System-

Fan On/Off Temperatures

VATS disable

 

-Speedometer-

Gear and Tire size scaling

Speed Limiters

Posted
Does this apply to LT5 as well??

That might be a tad old to use Edit on but I could be wrong. Maybe it supports that 4 cam setup. Give Ken a shout at Carputing.com and see if he has any input. Below is a list of supported vehicles for the Edit program/cable.

 

1994/1995 5.7L LT1 and 4.3L L99 (engine code P and W)

 

1996/1997 5.7L LT1, LT4 and L99 (engine code P, 5 and W)

 

1997-2004 5.7L LS1 (engine code G)

 

2001-2004 5.7L LS6 (engine code S)

 

1999-2004 4.8L LR4, 6.0L LQ4, and 5.3L LM7 (engine codes U, V, and T)

 

2001-2004 8.1L L18, 5.7L L31, and 4.3L L35 V6 (engine codes R, G, and W)

 

2002-2004 6.0L LQ9, 5.3L FFV, and 4.3L LU3 V6 (engine codes N, Z, and X)

 

2003-2004 5.3L LM4 (engine code P)

 

1999-2004 Holden 5.7L (engine code F)

 

1999-2004 Non-US Caprice SS and Lumina SS 5.7L LS1 (engine code F)

Posted
Does it come with a manual describing each value and what each one means? And can you read the values that your truck is running with it?

Nope, no manual. There are a few places around with guides to tuning. You can read your PCM to see what settings currently are and then Edit them. Heres a look at the program. This is the High Octane Spark Table and Engine cal menu.

 

Edit.jpg

Posted

Thanks man, I think i'm gonna try it :crackup: Don't be suprised if I come on here askin for some help :crackup::D:cool:

Posted
Thanks man, I think i'm gonna try it :crackup: Don't be suprised if I come on here askin for some help :crackup::D:cool:

Nothing wrong with that man! Ill help ya out. But how do oyu think I learned how to use it? I asked a whole bunch of people who already had Edit. PLUS there is a board called LS1Tuning.com that is a great resource when tuning.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...