Jump to content

Clunking noise in front end when going over bumps


Recommended Posts

Posted

When driving over bumps, I hear some sort of clunking noise in the front end. At first it only happened on the passenger side, then over time the driver side started making the same noise.

I can't quite pinpoint where it's coming from, but it sounds like it's somewhere under the cab, possibly in the area of where the torsion bars connect to the cross member, but I could be wrong.

I'm still on the original balls joints; could that be causing it?

Posted

It could be anything, especially if you have an older truck with high miles. I would crawl under the truck and see if anything appears to be loose, pull of the torson bars,  etc. Also tighen any bolts and screws.

Posted

It is the torsion bars that are causing that noise.  There is a little block right in the crossmember where they attach that broke on my Blazer, giving the same noise.  That would be the first place to look.

Posted

So that's what causes that noise?  I just got rid of a '94 S-10 Blazer that had that 'thunk' but nobody could ever find the source.  Generally happened when unweighting, like at the end of a whoop-de-do.  No big loss, the thunk was the least of its problems when I got rid of it!

Posted

I didn't think 1990 K1500 4WD's had torsion bar IFS suspensions, I thought they had a conventional 4WD setup????????????????????

Posted

I'm pretty sure that GM changed over to IFS in '88 when they changed to the last generation body style.

In that case,a 1990 would have torsion bars.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...