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Using GM Top Engine Cleaner/Seafoam


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Posted

Hey All,

 

My Yukon now has 70,000 miles on it and the engine is starting to run sluggishly on startup. I've done a good job of keeping the throttle body clean by the butterfly plate, so it's not that problem. I decided to try the top end cleaner and then put in some new plugs and wires, oil change, and change the fuel filter again (it's been about 30K since I've done that).

 

I picked up a can of the SPRAY GM Top Engine Cleaner from the dealer on Friday -- it's not the liquid stuff. My question is -- how do I apply this stuff? I know that with the liquid you are supposed to suck it in via a vaccuum hose. But, since this is the spray, should I just hold open the butterfly plate in the throttle body and spray the whole thing in there? Will it get good coverage that way?

 

Then, is it best to leave it sit overnight? Also, will it be OK to drive it 30 miles after doing this before I change the plugs and oil?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Jon

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I used the GM Top Engine Cleaner (the liquid stuff) this weekend on my 2000 Yukon with 73K miles on it. I sucked in the can via the PCV hose and then let it sit overnight. It took about 20 minutes to suck it all in through a little tube like the ones that come with a can of WD-40.

 

Anyway, when I started it up this morning, there was hardly any smoke at all. I drove it for 6 miles and hardly anything. Then, I changed the oil, plugs and wires.

 

My question is -- shouldn't there have been more smoke? Those of you who have used this stuff, do you think I did something wrong? Everything I've read on here says that you should get a ridiculous amount of smoke when using this stuff.

 

Thanks for your help and input.

Posted

Reading the PDF file on Carbon Removal it made me think of the time around '76-'77, I was 18 or 19 and working for a Pontiac dealership (when the Smokey and the Bandit edition Trans-Am's were hot tickets, I loved to test drive them and admittantly run the piss out of them). Anyway, I had a 70 1/2 Z-28 at the time and I noticed when twisting her up (I had a nasty habit of winding her up until she slowed down and then grab another gear, I was usually drinking when I did that trick) I could see carbon colored smoke in the rear view mirror. I mentioned this to one of the older mechanics. He had me bring my car around to his bay and sent me to fill up a 16 oz. Pepsi bottle from the water cooler. When I returned he had the breather off, I handed him the Pepsi bottle full of water and he proceeded to pour the water into the carb while operating the throttle enough to keep the engine from stalling. I about sh*t when he started pouring the water in the carb. He said that was an old moonshiner trick. After he emptied the bottle he told me to stand behind one of the tail pipes. As he was revving the engine I could actually feel stuff hitting my pants leg. It cured the problem and I've never forgotten it.

Posted

Sorry for the newb question, but what's the PCV hose, and where's it located on a 5.3L? I have a can of SeaFoam, will this work? It's the liquid, not the spray. Thanks.

Posted
Sorry for the newb question, but what's the PCV hose, and where's it located on a 5.3L?    I have a can of SeaFoam, will this work?  It's the liquid, not the spray.  Thanks.

 

 

 

 

yeah, the seafoam liquid will work -- it's basically the same thing that i used (i had the gm brand liquid, not the spray either). you basically need to suck it into the engine through one of the vaccuum hoses... for example, the brake booster hose or the pcv hose (pcv stands for positive crankcase ventilation.

 

it runs from the center top of the engine to the back driver's side of the engine -- you should get a haynes manual for like $20 -- it'll have good pictures of all of this.

 

let me know if you have any other questions.

Posted

Dukbludvl, it will usually smoke like crazy, although I have seen a few instances where it has not. Not sure why, maybe some evaporated overnight? I don't see what you could have done wrong, sounds like you did everything right. I'm personally not a fan of letting it sit overnight, I'll go about a 1/2 hour, but I don't like to give the engine a chance to cool down and possibly have the carbon harden up and defeat the purpose.

 

Does it run any smoother or quieter? If it did it's job, no worries. If you're not completely satisfied, wait an oil change or 2 and give it another shot. Make sure the vehicle is in operating temperature, and try letting it soak a little less.

Posted
Reading the PDF file on Carbon Removal it made me think of the time around '76-'77, I was 18 or 19 and working for a Pontiac dealership (when the Smokey and the Bandit edition Trans-Am's were hot tickets, I loved to test drive them and admittantly run the piss out of them). Anyway, I had a 70 1/2 Z-28 at the time and I noticed when twisting her up (I had a nasty habit of winding her up until she slowed down and then grab another gear, I was usually drinking when I did that trick) I could see carbon colored smoke in the rear view mirror. I mentioned this to one of the older mechanics. He had me bring my car around to his bay and sent me to fill up a 16 oz. Pepsi bottle from the water cooler. When I returned he had the breather off, I handed him the Pepsi bottle full of water and he proceeded to pour the water into the carb while operating the throttle enough to keep the engine from stalling. I about sh*t when he started pouring the water in the carb. He said that was an old moonshiner trick. After he emptied the bottle he told me to stand behind one of the tail pipes. As he was revving the engine I could actually feel stuff hitting my pants leg. It cured the problem and I've never forgotten it.

 

 

 

 

Very similar old trick...when I was a mechanic and a customer would come in with a valve tap, I would take a vacuum hose and suck up some windshield washer fluid, just like we do with the Seafoam/Top End Cleaner. If the ticking went away or changed, I knew it was carbon on the valve faces and I didn't have to pull the valve covers off to start checking rocker arms, etc. Perform an induction service, sell some gravy work* along with it, and out the door :flag:

 

*note: never sold unnecessary repairs, only work that was needed...sometimes it just turns out to be gravy

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