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petemata Enthusiast

petemata

Posted
Posted

I was wondering if anyone has had any problems with a nasty urine smell :chevy: coming from the air vents. At first I though it was the cabin filter, but it wasn’t..the filter was clean. I'm planning to take the truck to the dealership and see what they can fine.

Any help would be nice.

 

Pete :thumbs:

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted
I was wondering if anyone has had any problems with a nasty urine smell  :wtf:  coming from the air vents. At first I though it was the cabin filter, but it wasn’t..the filter was clean. I'm planning to take the truck to the dealership and see what they can fine.

Any help would be nice.

 

Pete  :chevy:

 

 

 

 

 

No, but then I don't pee in my vents either. :jester:

 

Sorry, I can rarely resist those. :thumbs:

 

 

 

Seriously though, sorry to hear it...Think you might have a refrigerant leak?

Burlbo1 Enthusiast

Burlbo1

Posted
Posted
I was wondering if anyone has had any problems with a nasty urine smell  :chevy:  coming from the air vents. At first I though it was the cabin filter, but it wasn’t..the filter was clean. I'm planning to take the truck to the dealership and see what they can fine.

Any help would be nice.

 

Pete  :thumbs:

 

 

 

 

 

Have you noticed the puddle of water underneath your truck you are supposed to get when running the A/C? If not, your drain for the evaporator is probably blocked. The water is do to condensation that builds up and sweats off of the tubes. If it doesn't drain, it will sit in the pan and basically become stagnent and therefore start to stink. Another indication of this problem is if your carpeting is wet. Going by my manual(2002 Chevy Silverado), the tube is at the firewall by the right fenderwell. Hope this helps.

Metz Motorsports Enthusiast

Metz Motorsports

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue in my Jeep, supposedly its mildew that has built up in the vents, most likely from using the recirc too much. So I am now in the process of using Lysol through the air intake duct (for the AC system ofcourse) to kill the mildew, and it seems to be working. I guess the rule of thumb is to spray it once a day for a couple weeks and it should take care of it. 2 days into it and already alot better. Not sure if this is actually the problem with mine, OR YOURS, but it seems to be helping alot. Not sure which smell is worse tho, the musty smell or the Lysol, that sh*t stinks....Hope some of this helps...

 

-Jason

ktmjim215 Enthusiast

ktmjim215

Posted
Posted

Specific products are made to disinfect the duct system and evaporator case. MOC Products makes a good one and GM has a spray too. Lysol will work in the vents very close to the vent itself but can not reach the evaporator, which is usually where the scent comes from. A stopped up drain usually causes the smell over a period of time. If the drain remains clogged the odor will return regardless. The draining of condensation is a normal function of the A/C system.

kdm101 Enthusiast

kdm101

Posted
Posted

A few years ago on Motorweek, "guru" Pat Goss told of a method of getting to the evap core by spraying the disinfectant into the intake vent (at the cowling). With the A/C on, and the vent fan on high, spray about 1/2 the can(!!), and then let it continue to blow for about 10 minutes afterwards. Repeat again in about 2 weeks.

 

I did this on my Olds (before it got crunched) at least once. Yeah, the lysol really stinks for a while, but for a few months afterward, there was no rank smell coming out.

 

However, on our trucks, this should be easy! Just open up the slot for your cabin air filters, and you'll see the evap core just inside! Just start hosing it down with what ever disinfecting cleaner. I gotta do this myself anyway, so next week when I'm off from work, I'll give it a shot.

 

I do think that some of the Pro grade stuff would work a lot better. I can't remember the name right now, but on Two Guys Garage (Speed channel), they talked about a product that sprays into the evap core chamber, and actually foams up to clean everything, then disolves into a liquid that just drains out.

budhayes3 Senior Enthusiast

budhayes3

Posted
Posted

I've been using Frigi-Fresh for years...also like the Wurth stuff. I've never used the foam type like on Two Guys Garage, but I heard that it really works. Definitely check and make sure that the drain's not clogged first.

petemata Enthusiast

petemata

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I was wondering if anyone has had any problems with a nasty urine smell  :uhoh:  coming from the air vents. At first I though it was the cabin filter, but it wasn’t..the filter was clean. I'm planning to take the truck to the dealership and see what they can fine.

Any help would be nice.

 

Pete  :chevy:

 

 

 

 

 

No, but then I don't pee in my vents either. :cool:

 

Sorry, I can rarely resist those. :thumbs:

 

 

 

Seriously though, sorry to hear it...Think you might have a refrigerant leak?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yup :jester: ...it look like I left myself wide open for that Wing Nut :wtf:

 

Thanks for the suggestions Guys

 

Pete

jhm Senior Enthusiast

jhm

Posted
Posted

maybe mice are living in the vents. I know lots of people who have had mice damage in ac systems and electrical systems.

carguru Senior Enthusiast

carguru

Posted
Posted

It is a very common problem. It is caused by mold, mildew, bacteria growth not only in the vents and ductwork, but on the evaporator also due to the condensation in the A/C system. Kill all of this growth with the products mentioned. To prevent recurrence, the easist thing to do is to shut off the A/C button about a mile before you park your truck and let the air dry the system. This should prevent it. It has worked for me for years. Good luck.

Markeaux Enthusiast

Markeaux

Posted
Posted

To add what has already been posted, also try not to run the AC with the temp on too cold of setting which can cause more condensation to build up inside the system which can then cause more bacteria/mold to grow. There is a TSB that describes adding a circuit that cycles the AC fan on/off after shutting off the engine to dry the coils, but I've heard that does not work well in humid environments. When it is not humid I have had good luck with drying out the coils by only running the fan on high for as long a time as possible once or twice a week.

 

http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/evap_stinks.htm

racer Enthusiast

racer

Posted
Posted

here's a tsb on the problem

Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit) #99-01-39-004A - (May 22, 2001)

Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit)

1993-2002 Passenger Cars

 

1993-2002 Light & Medium Duty Trucks

 

This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, service procedure, parts information and to add the GEO and Medium Duty models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004 (Section 01 - HVAC).

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on odors emitted from the air conditioning system, primarily at start-up in hot humid climates.

 

Cause

This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant, musty odor into the passenger compartment.

 

There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water leak. Follow the Service Manual procedure for identifying and correcting water leaks if other odor sources are found. The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the source of the odor has already been determined to be the HVAC module.

 

Correction

To remove odors of this type, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its reoccurrence. To accomplish this, the following steps must be completed:

 

Apply evaporator core Cooling Coil Coating (Aerosol 6 oz), P/N 12377951 (AC Delco® 15-102) (in Canada, use P/N 10953503) or Cooling Coil Coating Kit with Extension Nozzle, P/N 12346391 (AC Delco® 10-120). Refills are available for the Cooling Coil Coating Kit with Extension Nozzle, P/N 12346391 (AC Delco® 10-120). Refer to the chart below.

Install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer, P/N 12497910 (AC Delco® 15-5876).

 

Important

The Cooling Coil Coatings listed above are the only GM approved products for the disinfection and long-term control of evaporator microbial growth.

 

 

The Cooling Coil Coating will disinfect the evaporator core and help inhibit the growth of future mold and mildew.

 

The Electronic Evaporator Dryer will activate when the ambient temperature near the module is above 16° C (60° F) when the vehicle is started up. Approximately 30 minutes after the vehicle has been turned off, the blower will activate for 10 seconds every 10 minutes for 2 hours unless the vehicle is restarted. If a restart occurs, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer module will reset automatically. This on/off blower activation will dry the evaporator core and case reducing the chance of reoccurring A/C odor. The Electronic Evaporator Dryer is self fused and has a battery rundown protection feature that inactivates the dryer if voltage drops below 12.5 volts.

 

Service Procedure

Visually inspect the air conditioning evaporator drain hose for obstructions and/or working condition.

The cooling coil coating fluid must be applied to a dry evaporator core. Apply coil coating fluid as described in the instructions supplied with the kit. In some instances, the blower motor resistor can be removed for this spraying operation. If used, the opening can be taped over and the nozzle inserted through a hole in the tape. The kit instructions identify a drilling procedure to apply the coating fluid. When using this type of procedure, care must be taken to avoid evaporator damage and any holes must be properly sealed. Some coating fluid may overflow from the drain hose.

 

Important

When installing the Electronic Evaporator Module, you MUST use the included electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice.

 

 

Complete detailed installation instructions and wire connectors are supplied with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer. The ground wire should be attached to a body ground source. If any other wire splicing procedures are needed, follow the wire repair procedures in the Electrical sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual. If required, the evaporator dryer can be installed underhood away from extreme heat conditions (i.e. exhaust manifolds) and/or water splash areas. In all cases, the evaporator dryer module must be secured with a Velcro® strip (not included in the kit), or you may use the integral hooks to utilize tie straps. Using a Velcro® strip is preferred as the use of the integral hooks may cause rattles.

When the installation procedure is complete and power is supplied, the module will self-test. Thirty seconds after power is supplied, the high blower speed will be activated 3 times (for 2 seconds per cycle). When the test has run, install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer label on the blower motor case in a visible area.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

 

12377951

 

(AC Delco® 15-102)

Cooling Coil Coating (Aerosol 6 oz)

 

12346391

 

(AC Delco® 10-120)

Cooling Coil Coating Kit w/Extention Nozzle

 

12346390

 

(AC Delco® 10-121)

Refill for Cooling Coil Coating Kit

 

12497910

 

(AC Delco® 15-5876)

Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit

budhayes3 Senior Enthusiast

budhayes3

Posted
Posted

Since your model has the cabin filter, you can get a real good shot right at the evaporator. After checking and/or unclogging the drain, remove the lower cover under the dash (4 7mm screws) and the cabin filter cover (5.5mm screw) and remove the cabin filters. With the filter out of the way, you can spray disinfectant directly on to the evaporator (to the left). I do this every time I change my cabin filter, and all that I ever smell is the Ford that I'm passing as it spews oil on to it's exhaust system :thumbs:

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