'01 Silverado LT: Has mine had too many problems??

[Mawgie333]

Folks -

 

I am at the point where I am considering what to do with my truck, keep or trade. I drive a 2001, 5.3 liter Silverado LT extended cab, Z71, leather, loaded with everything except limited slip and Onstar. 53k on the odometer, and I bought it at 14k in superb condition from the first owner: a GM software engineer.

 

I am concerned that the truck is less reliable and costing more than it ought to in terms of repairs. Here's what I have done since I bought it:

 

1) rear drive shaft slip yoke: (TSB)

2) replace unraveling factory tonneau cover (warranty)

3) 4x4 service light on: replace switch (warranty)

4) replace front rotors (out of round) (warranty)

5)replace rear rotors and pads ($887)

6) replace power window regulator on driver's side (warranty)

7) replace power window regulator on passenger side ($320)

8) lubricate intermediate steering shaft (warranty)

9) lubricate intermediate steering shaft ($104)

10) replace ingnition lock cylinder ($242)

11)replace rear pinion seal ($30)

12) replace front left directional lens (warranty)

13) replace front bowtie (warranty)

 

This Friday, I have a service appointment to diagnose what I believe is a bad ABS sensor. The ABS kicks in at very slow speeds, usually, when my truck is 2-3 feet from another vehicle or an obstacle, on dry pavement. I predict $300-$500.

 

I run Mobil 1, change at 5k or less, and service the transmission at the dealer every 30k. If I had to pay for all of the above repairs out of pocket, I'd be out as much as $3,000.

 

I don't tow anything, do not off road the truck, rarely rev the engine above 3000 rpms, and do not pound on the brakes.

 

At this point, I had planned to drive the truck to 150k, but am worried that at the rate I am going it could cost me $5,000 in repairs to do that. Realistically, brakes will be an issue, as will the power window regulators and the intermediate steering shaft.

 

What do you folks think? The engine runs like Jack the Bear, and the transmission shifts with authority. I like the truck, but for me to keep it, the truck must be relatively trouble free beyond maintenance issues.

 

I confess to even going so far as the Toyota dealership last weekend, to look at Tacomas and Tundras. The Tacomas are absurdly too small for my needs: I use the full bed nearly every week, and lug 5 tool boxes, plus extra clothes, guns, and buckets in the extended cab on any given day. The Tundra was still a tad small, and awfully expensive. I'd prefer to drive my Chevy, but flat out won't if the costs don't get in line.

 

Thanks for any input - Mawgie333

[budhayes3]

The problems that you have had with your truck are pretty common to the NBS trucks. I have pretty much the same laundry list, but being an ex mechanic I can handle them myself, and I'm more interested in styling and modifications anyway. Yes, I'll admit that Toyotas are less problematic (I was a Toyota tech for over 10 years), but you can't compare what it feels like to drive my truck to one of those. And remember, any vehicle will have it's share of problems. If you are going to make the switch, I'd suggest getting something with a warranty so you won't have to worry about it.

 

All in all, most of the problems I've had with my truck have been more annoying than anything...never had it have it towed anywhere (knock on wood). I guess what it comes down to is how much do you like this truck?

[Mawgie333]

Blackened-

 

Love the way the truck performs.

Love chevies.

Hate writing checks.

Won't keep writing them.

I have had superb experiences with Jeep Grand Cherokees in thepast, which admittedly aren't full sized trucks. However, I think the Silverado should be treating me much better than it is.

 

1) The power windows are cable actuated, which means prone to rust and repeated failure.

2) The mid-steering shaft is so much of a problem that there are scores of posts here on how to deal with it.

3) They made the brake rotors out of composite metal, so they are excrutiatingly expensive to replcae.

4) Switches and sensors are going bad.

 

I love the Silveraod, but won't ignore the bottom line. Have others had a better (or worse) experience than mine?

[Shawn T]

I currently own an 03 Sierra 2500HD CC D/A. I used to own a 99 Silverado. The list of problems you mentioned are very common. The problem with GM is that they don't remedy them. They just keep building the same trucks and eventually try to make a "replacement" part available on down the line. The intermediate steering shaft became a problem a month after I bought the truck. This was October of 98. So you can imagine the headaches that I went through because they thought it was just the truck and not a flaw in the design. The problems with the window regulators is very very common. Most of these problems are just more annoying than mechanical. My list of repairs was about three times as long as yours. My truck was a 1500 ext cab Z71 LT just like yours, so it had all of the bells and whistles and every one of them had problems. Eventually they were under control and I had very good luck with the drive and power trains. When I traded it in, it had been almost 60000 miles since it was in the shop. I just was patient(knowing it was a new redesign and there would be problems) and it all worked out in the end.

[jhm]

That is a lot of problems for a '01 in my opinion. I also have a '01 4wd extended cab 4.8l. The biggest problem I had was a noise that sounded like piston slap. They gave me the extended warranty for that, saying it was normal. I went to another dealer a few months later and he said that is not piston slap, there is a loose plastic piece in the 4wd selector. No more noise. Then the tranny would not shift into od until 75mph. they changed out a part in the tranny from the side, no more problem. Last week I checked the brakes and found the rear disc pads were almost spent. Local garage turned rotors and put on bendix pads for 170.00, I think that is fair. Why they wore out at 39k I dont know, I am easy on them. I think you got a lemon and would get rid of it before it cost you an extra payment every other month. Good luck!

[99GMCZ71]

I've had some of those same problems on mine. I also can fix most stuff myself. $887.00 to replace rear rotors and pads??? You got ripped off there.

[bigdogs]

I was a little surprised there too... I hope that is not normal.

[ness5575]

brake components for these things are not cheap. if you go replace with gm parts the rotors are over $175 each, and probably over $100 for new pads. I would bet that you are pushing $500 just in parts.

 

Luckily, at least in my case, the brakes last forever. needed new rear pads at 82k (rotors were fine), and am still on all original front equiment at over 107k...

[budhayes3]

There's a TSB about installing rear inner fenderwell mudflaps to combat premature rear brake wear...I posted it a while back, do a search and you'll find it.

[Mawgie333]

Thanks for the input, guys. Regarding my brakes, I know I gut beat on the rears, but had to get it done on an emergency basis on a Sunday.

 

As for the fronts, the rotors warped all by themselves.

 

Maybe the truck is more or less through the worst of it. We'll see. If not, it's gone.

 

To preserve rear brake life, I have also been advised to religously use the emergency brake when parking, which I do.

[gave20]

I can't see how all this is normal. I never had to replace rotors in any of my vehicles and many were well over 100K. ...I guess I should get the extended warrenty either that or look for a more reliable brand; its just confusing how the NBS chevys can have this many problems when all of my previous OBS trucks never had a problem.

[wsettle]

I think the most common cause of warped rotors is air-impact wrenches and inexperienced users. When ever I have someone work on a tire/wheel, I always make them put the air wrenches away and get out the lug wrench. I think it's alright to remove the lug nuts with the air wrench but the nuts must be tightened in the proper pattern and torqued to the proper specifications to prevent rotor warpage. If they refuse to do it by hand, I go somewhere else. Just my 2 cents.

[az'03Silverado]

I'll start by saying that any window regulator that is made up of a thin cable and nylon running gear is a big piece of crap. They always break. GM uses them in every car/truck they make and they suck. What happened to the good old cog/lever-arm system? I'll take a set of crank windows over a bunch of replacement electric-type anyday.

But to answer your question. That sounds like a lot of repairs but, from what I've read here on the forum(s), that's par for the course with these nbs trucks. My '03 has been real good so far. Just a few things (right rear quarter window replaced, water pump gaskets leaked, and (of course) the intermediate steering shaft lube) done so far. But, I have the 75,000mile/6 year extended warranty. Right now I only have 14,000 miles so if, after the warranty's up, I have a bunch of trouble, I won't keep it.

[MS3DALE]

I think the most common cause of warped rotors is air-impact wrenches and inexperienced users. When ever I have someone work on a tire/wheel, I always make them put the air wrenches away and get out the lug wrench. I think it's alright to remove the lug nuts with the air wrench but the nuts must be tightened in the proper pattern and torqued to the proper specifications to prevent rotor warpage. If they refuse to do it by hand, I go somewhere else. Just my 2 cents.

 

Yep, This is the biggest problem we see here at the dealership. ALWAYS use a torque wrench (or a torque-stik if your using an impact wrench) no if,ands or buts!!!

For all full-size trucks the proper torque is 140 ft.lbs. and S10's its 95 ft.lbs.

[bigdogs]

There's a TSB about installing rear inner fenderwell mudflaps to combat premature rear brake wear...I posted it a while back, do a search and you'll find it.

 

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Do you know it they extended it to 2500HDs as well? The TSB says just 1500s.