Jump to content

tire size?

highchevy

Recommended Posts

highchevy Enthusiast

highchevy

Posted
Posted

My mother-in-law is purchasing a new 2004 2500HD 4x4 and wants to put 285/75/r16's on it with messing with the torsion bars. Will this work :devil: Thanks for your help!

2004GMC2500HD Enthusiast

2004GMC2500HD

Posted
Posted

I put 285/70/17's on my 2004 GMC 2500HD regular cab 4x4. I did not have to mess with the torsion bars, but I did have to trim the front bumper and the inner splash guards. If it is done well you can't tell they have been trimmed. :devil:

highchevy Enthusiast

highchevy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Put the tires on.  I bet they don't rub going forward.  Mine only rubbed while in reverse with the sterring wheel cranked one way.

 

 

Did they rub on the front bumper or just the plastic fairing below the bumper? :devil:

catiaeng Enthusiast

catiaeng

Posted
Posted

No problems with mine :devil: I did not trim the plastic on my truck and did not mess with the torsion bars (yet). I want to do the torsion bars to make it look stout, not for the tires.

Machine Enthusiast

Machine

Posted
Posted

I just added 285/70/17's to our Z71 Suburban...they fit fine w/ no adjustments. I also ran 285/75/16's on our previous Yukon XL - no problems

banshee42096 Enthusiast

banshee42096

Posted
Posted

it make a differance what make you got chev or gmc.

the chev lower bumper sheild is alot smaller than the

gmc.i have a 2004 gmc cc d/a and i put the 265-75r16

on it and on half turn the tire is about 1/8 inch if not closer

to the lower bumper sheild i would think you would have to

trim it but mine is painted and i did not want to its up to you though

. I would prefer tha larger tires but not worth the hasle just my 2 cents

good luck :devil:

Ranger354 Enthusiast

Ranger354

Posted
Posted

Yea I heard the GMC is a little different. My chevy didn't rub the bumper. Just the plastic inner splash guard. I didn't crank the torsion bars either.

2004GMC2500HD Enthusiast

2004GMC2500HD

Posted
Posted

With the 285/70/17's on it I had to trim the front bumper and the inner splash guards and use zip ties to tie back the back side of the splash guard. My truck is a 2004 GMC. After a little modification they look just fine and fit just fine. Just be careful if you have to trim something so it doesn't look bad when you are done.

 

I had the tires on a 2002 Cadillac Escalade and they fit tight, but just fine and I did not have to modify anything.

 

P.S. The 285's will look MUCH better then the little tires the truck comes with.

LT1MCSS Enthusiast

LT1MCSS

Posted
Posted

So is the general conclusion here that 285's will fit on the Chevy's without rubbing but not on the GMC's. I have a 2000 Silverado and im goin to be buying a set of Dueler tires. I was going go with 265's because i heard that the 285's rub. If the 285's don't rub i would rather get the 285's over the 265's. I just want to know before i go buying the tires if the tires are going to rub really bad or not. Thanks

Machine Enthusiast

Machine

Posted
Posted
So is the general conclusion here that 285's will fit on the Chevy's without rubbing but not on the GMC's.  I have a 2000 Silverado and im goin to be buying  a set of Dueler tires.  I was going go with 265's because i heard that the 285's  rub.  If the 285's don't rub i would rather get the 285's over the 265's.  I just want to know before i go buying the tires if the tires are going to rub really bad or not.  Thanks

 

 

 

 

I don't agree with that. I modified both a 2001 GMC Yukon XL and a new 2005 Chevy Suburban Z71 and both setups were exactly the same. I just think it's the small differences of the inner plastic wheel well that cause some people to have to modify and some not.

 

For example - over on a specific Z71 related forum - some folks had to crank the T-bars or zip tie the plastic in order to fit the 285's. My 285's on the Suburban fit perfectly w/out any mods. I can only attribute that to variations in the plastic molding while it’s being made at the mfg.

 

Another example comes from the sales guy at Discount tire – before installing my 285’s he indicated that sometimes they fit fine on an exact same year and model truck and sometimes they have to modify. He had zip ties on hand just in case.

LT1MCSS Enthusiast

LT1MCSS

Posted
Posted

I have access to a shop to mount the tires and stuff. I think my best bet is maybe to order one or two 285's put them on the front of the truck and put on the ground turn the wheel lock to lock and see what my clearences are and what has to be done if anything.

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
Posted
So is the general conclusion here that 285's will fit on the Chevy's without rubbing but not on the GMC's.  I have a 2000 Silverado and im goin to be buying  a set of Dueler tires.  I was going go with 265's because i heard that the 285's  rub.  If the 285's don't rub i would rather get the 285's over the 265's.  I just want to know before i go buying the tires if the tires are going to rub really bad or not.  Thanks

 

 

 

 

I don't agree with that. I modified both a 2001 GMC Yukon XL and a new 2005 Chevy Suburban Z71 and both setups were exactly the same. I just think it's the small differences of the inner plastic wheel well that cause some people to have to modify and some not.

 

For example - over on a specific Z71 related forum - some folks had to crank the T-bars or zip tie the plastic in order to fit the 285's. My 285's on the Suburban fit perfectly w/out any mods. I can only attribute that to variations in the plastic molding while it’s being made at the mfg.

 

Another example comes from the sales guy at Discount tire – before installing my 285’s he indicated that sometimes they fit fine on an exact same year and model truck and sometimes they have to modify. He had zip ties on hand just in case.

 

 

 

 

 

You are talking about a Yukon and a suburban. The 03 and up GMC Sierra's have a completly different front lower air dam. The Chevy's(regardless of the year) ends straight down where the 03 and up Sierras is one solid painted piece that curls under much farther. You have to do some trimming on the Sierras even if the T-bars are cranked to fit 285s. If you don't crank the T-bars you will have to trim even to clear 265's. Believe me I have an 03 and I have run 265s and now run 285 BFGs. My T-bars are cranked, the lower air dam is trimmed, and the inner splash guard is trimmed. They still rub on hard reverse turns and hard binds. Others mentioned 285/70 R17's which are a hair shorter than 285/75 R16's, which I am running. I forgot to mention that I have 8 inch deep wheels with the factory set posative offset. If you run the factory wheels you may eek by with less trimming on the front. Never the less I had the 285's before I put custom wheels on my truck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...