new suburban

[tfpary]

After lurking here for a while, I felt I learned enough to make the plunge and bought a 97 Suburban. K1500. Only 60k on it. After I replaced the battery, which was junk, it runs absolutely perfect. Two Problems though - Minor one - Fuel pump is very loud. Humms like crazy, any thoughts?

The other one is more irritating- there is a small coolant leak. I crawled under the truck to day, after running it about 2 minutes and noticed coolant dripping down the starter, off the bolts. First thought was frost plug, but its darn hard to see there, might have to take off the tire and inner fender. At least its leaking outside the engine!

Great forum!

Thanks for the Help

tfpary:notice:

[Shaners]

Welcome to the Forum and sounds like you got yourself a nice "burb".  It shouldn't be too hard to locate the coolant leak, but it's too bad that everything wasn't "perfect".  It's no fun wrenching on something you just bought.  Good Luck...

[tfpary]

Thanks Shaners! I really love the truck. I'll have to get a picture up. My last Chevy, an 82 C10, is stilling going strong at 230,000 miles, so I hope the Suburban will follow suite.

[DigUout]

Welcome to the Forum tfpary!!

 

Changing fuel pump is a major pain if the gas tank must be drained.  On the bright side ,if you're not hearing it, it's not working.  I live with mine being kinda whiny for now.  Either way, congrats on new Sub!

[BIG BLUE]

tfpary,

 

Congrats on the "new" sub.  We have a 97 k1500 sub that the wife drives, and have had 3 other subs too.  My first guess on your coolant leak would be the intake manifold gasket.  The early vortecs are infamous for springing a leak at around the 60-70k mark (my 97 went to 76k).  Usually, it is at engine cooldown and will drip off the back side of the block onto the bellhousing.

 

First check the quick connect to the heater hoses and check the hoses into the firewall.  Also check overflow jug for levels.  If you do find that it's coming from the IM gasket then first try to "snug" the bolts up to prevent from leaking.  This is only temporary and to replace upper and lower gaskets will run you anywhere from $275-$425 (local shop to dealer).

 

I've done this repair and it's not too difficult but will take the better part of a Saturday and at least a dozen or so adult beverages.  If it is the IM gasket, be sure to change the engine oil since it's near impossible in my experience to NOT get some coolant into the lifter valleys and eventually into the pan.

 

As for the replacement of the battery, I'd be curious to know what symptoms led you to buy a new one.  If you had any problems starting with the original battery, I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND inspecting the positive cable and make sure corrosion has not "snaked" it's way down the cable to the starter.  This will come back to haunt you later if that is the case trust me!

 

Fuel pump on my 97 is loud too, and seems even louder when less than a 1/4 tank (10 gallons) in the tank.  Try and take a listen to other C/K style trucks/subs/hoes/yukons and see how their pump sounds compared to yours.  Like another poster said, better to hear a "loud" pump than no sound at all ;)

 

Good Luck,

BIG BLUE

[Pastmaster]

My parents have a 96 suburban.  Has over 115k.  Nice truck, but had alot of little problems.  The fuel pump is really quiet on ours.  

 

There is a TSB for the leaking intake manifold gasket.  Might be where your's leaks.

[pacodiablo]

welcome to the site.  i drive a burb for my company.  its a 1996.  i broke a lot of stuff on it.

[tfpary]

Thanks for all the replies. Big Blue, I first tried cleaning the cables, positive was grunged up. Bolt was kind of bad too, so I replaced it. Seemed better, but when the truck was hot it barely cranked.  Swapped out the battery from my old truck, and it fired right up. Put the battery that came with the Burb in my old truck, and you guessed it, it cranked slow, sometimes not at all. Charged the battery for 6 hours, voltage only read a little less than 11 volts. Apparently the battery had a bad internal connection, or severe sulfation. I kinda was hoping it wasn't leaking from the intake gasket, sounds like a pain to fix, but not impossible. I do most of my own work, so maybe I will stock up on adult  beverages and give it a whirl. Any recommendations on replacement gaskets as to brand? and which ones will be needed? Is there a gasket set available with all the necessary gaskets?

Thanks again!

[BIG BLUE]

tfpary,

 

Before you tear into the intake gasket job, make sure that is the culprit since the other potential possibilities are much less $ and less time consuming.  If you find out the IM gaskets are the cause then the gaskets can be had at the dealer for about $50 for the set (upper and lower).

 

Here's some tips from my records;

 

1) Get the complete intake gasket set. The manifold is a 2-piece deal. The upper section is removed first & has several gaskets that should be replaced as well. If I remember correctly, better get the valve cover gaskets too, yep you have to remove at least one of them to get the intake in & out.

 

2)Flush your cooling system before you begin. This way your only dealing with clear water, instead of sticky antifreeze as you tear into it.

 

3)Inside both upper & lower manifld sections will be a filthy sticky mess, due to the exaust gas recirculation. If your a clean freak like me, plan on about 1 hour for cleaning.

 

4)The mounting area where the manifold physicaly contacts the heads (where the gaskets go)was quite clean and needed very little prep. I could see where and why mine had started leaking, it looked like it was over torked. You see the intake manifild gasket is a made of rigid plastic, this plasic supports the silicone gasket material in the center of it. If the plastic breaks, there is nothing to support the silicone. You could clearly see this on the set I removed, the "overtorquing" at the time of install had crushed the gasket. Over time the expansion & contraction caused the crushed plastic section to seperate from the silicone gasket. I'm just thankful mine leaked on the outside. Anyway DO NOT OVER-TORQUE!

 

5)Change your engine oil & filter.

 

Good Luck,

BIG BLUE

[minnesota]

tp - i just posted a near identical problem -- 97 GMC 'Burb, seeping coolant along lower edge of driver side head. I had to replace fuel pump at 53K (old one was very noisy - finally just died -- not cheap); alternator at 59K; + heater control valve and leaking heater hose inlet to intake manifold (needed to be rethreaded 'cause I was told nearly always breaks off when removing old one to replace.) I hope same gremlins don't jump on yours.....luck of draw I guess...far cry from my old '90 Z-71 that I took to 134K without a peep!